Even if a turf lawn is small, it can add a great deal of beauty as a setting for other plantings. Keeping it "relatively" small can make it do-able. Confining it to a central location in the back yard is where it might give the most bang for the buck... being the "white space" for the plantings closer to the perimeter. (I can't speak to what greyhounds might do to it since I have no experience with them. Do they like to tear directly across open space, or use the perimeter like an oval track? The latter could be to your advantage insofar as turf goes.) An oval shape seems like it would fit the back yard nicely and if it was a pronounced, distinct, perfect shape, it could add a feeling of strength and organization to the overall design of the yard. Since the back lot line has low trees already, beefing them up with Palo Verde or Mesquite, so as not to see buildings beyond, seems like a good goal. I agree that neighbors could not expect that you wouldn't plant trees or that you would assume responsibility for their view. (When was the last time you thought about asking anyone to alter a tree on their private property to suit your needs? Where your trees cross the property line into neighboring yards, it's the case that they own the crossing portion and can do with it as they please. It might sound like be a harsh legal reality, but plantings at yard perimeters that provide some privacy or shade USUALLY work to the advantage of both parties. Usually it's not much of a problem.) Combining some views-below-canopies with privacy, where needed, seems like it would be easily workable. Along the cul-de-sac area, you might consider breaking up the run of wall with small groupings of small tree-form shrubs with open space between the groupings. Where I live, freestanding walls and fences are frequently treated by placing a lower hedge to run alongside them. To my thinking this is a complete waste of material and effort. It does nothing to interrupt the boredom of the wall length. Just like how periodic columns add interest to a plain brick wall, periodic plantings that exceed the height of the wall add visual interest. Large flowering shrubs make good small trees for this purpose. Grouped tightly in 3s, they also add depth to the planting. As pointed out, the TYPE of thorns that plants have make much difference. I would not think thorns on TREES would make much difference (in general) to people or pets as the thorns could easily be placed overhead and out of reach. Plants without thorns can be placed at lower levels. And in some cases with certain plants, thorns that are highly visible and obvious may be acceptable. The patio area is somewhat like a stage positioned to play to a 180* view. Of course, the actual viewing occurs in the opposite direction of what it would in a theater. Here, the audience sits on the stage and views the "theater seating" area, which is the back yard. After you determine the actual square footage of additional patio needed, you might consider making its distant edge to be arranged in a semi-circular, octagonal or similar, bay-window-ish shape so as to "play" to the rest of the back yard. It would need to fit with lawn shape. Setting small groups of trees to both sides (not between "stage" and "seating") could provide shade and maintain an unobstructed view to the lawn and remainder of back yard. Trees selected for what their canopy could become (as it relates to patio and house) would be important. The discussion of wall heights surrounding the back yard can be confusing. As you refine your ideas you might submit a revised plan for the wall that only indicates what portion of the wall is ABOVE your back yard grade... as that's what really matters from back yard viewpoint. Also, for discussion purposes, I suggest that it would be easier (especially since your house is set at a diagonal to cardinal directions) to refer to right/left/fore and aft--as one would view the yard from standing at the street facing the house--as opposed to NE/SW/SE/NW, as those require one to memorize the directions or to go back and look at a previous drawing. Right, left, fore and aft is easier.

I bought a very expensive Therna Tru front door with frosted side windows and the finish started to disintegrate on the door. That is because the sun hits it in the mornings and the finish just did not hold up and began to disintegrate and come off. First contacted Lowe's who I bought the door through and Lowe's passed me off to Therma Tru. Contacted Therma Tru and it started to weasel out of any responsibility on its 10 year warranty and gave me a hard time. I assume Therma Tru has had other problems with its wood look finish disintegrating. i am going to keep posting wherever and whenever I can about how Therma Tru does not honor its 10-year warranty on its expensive front doors. I am a service-connected totally disabled homebound Marine Corps veteran who paid over $5,000 for the Therma Tru front door. Bought it along with Pella windows through Lowe's on North Shådeland Avenue In Indianapolis Indiana, Richard Bovey Indianapolis Indiana

Ok, I'm back, and refocused. Thanks so much for all the advice (and the football tangent. I'm married to a Steelers fan, so Sunday wasn't a happy day -- record-setting blizzard AND Brady getting another ring). Anyway, I did the rough math and decided that by the time I pay my GC to install and painter to paint my doors, they won't be much cheaper than going with a much better product. Plus, my GC doesn't do exterior doors everyday and I know there's a real benefit to having the experts handle install. I've talked to a few local folks and been advised that HomeGuard is a bit of a better value than Provia -- less expensive and still quite good. I've been quoted $4400 to install factory-painted HomeGuard doors - two 36"x80" flush steel doors plus two 16'x80" sidelites with low E and argon glass. Is this a decent price? And a good way to go? Thanks again.

well those prices are something! 9K ?? for what? those are fiberglass? are you sure it's for the door alone? look at this link and the prices. even with customizing, I don't see how you can add 6K to the price! https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steves-Sons-64-in-x-80-in-Savannah-Clear-6-Lite-LHIS-Mahogany-Stained-Wood-Prehung-Front-Door-with-Double-12-in-Sidelites-M6410-123012-CT-4ILH/206188786 this is actual wood too. mahogany. pre-hung. it's less than 2500 Here, same size https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steves-Sons-64-in-x-80-in-Craftsman-Savannah-6-Lite-LHIS-Autumn-Wheat-Mahogany-Wood-Prehung-Front-Door-with-Double-12-in-Sidelite-M6410-123012-AW-4ILH/304245554 here's a douglas fir w/lots of custom options. 1700.00 https://custom.homedepot.com/custom-doors/p/Krosswood-Doors-Krosswood-Classic-Douglas-Fir-Exterior-Wood-Door/315188343/51879-Pre-Hung/51881-Single/51885-36-x-80/51891-38-x-82/51900-Grey/57420-6-Lite/52016-Left-Hand-Inswing/52019-5-1-2 I gave you other choices for doors at under 3K. the transom you can do seperately. maybe adding it w/the door ups the price. Or, better yet, since the siding is getting replaced, just cover the transom. up to you Instead of side lights, could you do double doors? or one larger door and one side lite? https://www.wayfair.com/filters/smooth-prefinished-fiberglass-prehung-front-entry-door-l7233-k~vron3559-a126048~470889-a126051~450654-a136111~450656.html