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Japanese Maple - are these leaves normal or diseased?

8 years ago

I planted this Japanese Maple (I don't remember the variety) in September of 2012. I don't remember seeing the leaves look like this before, but I can't find any information on the internet about this to know if it is normal or diseased. The leaves this spring look hairy.. at first the "hairs" were white, but I did put a neem oil treatment on all of my ornamental trees last week to protect them from bugs, so that may be why the "hairs" are looking brown on some of the leaves. What I also noticed is that these leaves are growing in tight bunches. I don't know much about gardening, so all of this is new to me, but it just doesn't look right! Your experience and info is much appreciated! Thank you!

Comments (3)

gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years ago
I don't see anything wrong with it on the surface but it would certainly help to know what cultivar it is. It might be helpful to know that JM's go through distinct leaf colorations: the first in spring with the new growth; the second in midseason (mid-late spring to early fall) and the final one in fall before leaf drop. They can also exhibit both adult and juvenile foliage types which can look very different from each other.

Neem oil doesn't 'protect' plants from insects - it's not a preventative treatment. It will only help to control certain insect pests when they are present. That's the only time (and reason) you should be spraying. Also, Japanese maples have very sensitive foliage and can be easily damaged by pretty much any type of pesticidal spray. Best just to use a strong stream of water to dislodge whatever insects you might find in the future
tiffany_rau
Original Author
8 years ago
I turned the house upside down, but I found the original tag! It is a Bloodgood (Acer palmatum var. atropurpureum). Not sure if you needed all of that, but I didn't know if there were different kinds of bloodgoods :) I understand what you mean about neem oil. I did have a few bugs on my cherry trees, and I put it on that one for good measure, but I will be more cautious about that in the future. I try to keep chemicals out of my yard because of my dogs anyway. Let me know if this still looks normal for the leaves now that you know the name. Thank you!!!!
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There is not a single topic where qualified horticultural professionals do not have dissenting opinions. Indeed, over time, yesterday's crackpot theory becomes today's widely accepted practice. Andvthe reverse is equally true. I can provide examples of each. I have no problems with disagreement...it means we have views that are different, nothing more. I can tell you this much...technically, no diagnosis should be given without a lab report. In practical terms, symptoms are given, probable diagnosis are given, no lab ever consulted. Same with nutrient issues. Very few are going to go through the trouble of collecting samples, sending them in, and waiting...and nearly every soil test i've ever seen has at least a token amount of fertilizer recommended. And who exactly is going going to go for a tissue analysis? Except in extraordinary circumstances? So making this claim is misleading, it's an attempt to shut down dissent, not create a conversation. Let's not even start going down the rabbit hole of analyzing and interpreting soil test results...basically, that's one subject where there is no agreement. I'll admit most people fertilize where they have no business doing so. I won't comment on some of the products out there or the claims made by various parties. In particular instance...we have a plant recently acquired, still in a pot. Trying to exclude container practices while claiming the umbrella of established landscape plantings is misleading. For the record, i'm not suggesting we fertilize this puppy till there is no fertilizer left on the county. I'm suggesting a half rate dose of a liquid soluble, aka, a shot in the arm. It can do little harm...and can have the benefit of pushing new growth. Explaing how photosynthesis occurs...great...now, how do plants take up nutrients? There needs to be room for dissenting views, in many forums of life. I'm not promulgating crazy high doses, or mix your own concoctions because i took a high school chemistry class...this is not a radical proposal i'm making. And frankly, it's one respected horticultural professionals across the country give routinely. Feel free to disagree...you can be a qualified and respected professional and disagree. Especially in horticulture.
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years ago
Good for you for digging up the tag!! And yes, the leaves still look perfectly normal AFA any disease or insect problems are concerned. But you do not have a true 'Bloodgood' - those leaves would be a solid wine red if you did.

'Bloodgood' is arguably the most popular and widely sold cultivar of Japanese maple and has been so for many years. Because of that popularity, any number of less than ethical growers have flooded the market with so-called bloodgood look-alikes, typically seedling grown trees. Since all named forms of JM can only be propagated asexually, typically by grafting, any seedling trees are just plain old Japanese maples regardless of the name of the tree that generated the seeds. And ones with red leaves or mostly red leaves are usually attributed to the varietal name atropurpureum. So Acer palmatum var. atropurpureum translates to simply 'red leaved Japanese maple :-)

It's hard to find a true 'Bloodgood' in commerce unless you frequent retail nurseries that bring in JM's only from reputable growers. And even that can be a bit of an issue, depending on the provenance of the tree they were taking graft cuttings from. So if that was a great deal maple found at Home Depot or Costco or other non-nursery outlets, chances are very good it is not true to name.

But that doesn't mean it isn't a perfectly acceptable and attractive little tree. It's just not a real 'Bloodgood'.

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