If I do decide to start fresh- how far away from the original tomato site do I need to plant the new ones?? Rhaine, I don't think it's too late to spray and if it's Septoria I'd use Daconil. Since all new foliage infections are via airborne means planting any distance from your current infected plants isn't an issue. Carolyn

From the research I've just been doing on my early blight, which is what I see on yours (not the dreaded late blight), you need to get ALL of the affected leaves off there, because the spores are easily transferred from leaf to leaf, and yes, continue spraying. Serenade is an organic spray that's often recommended, and Daconil is also very popular (I don't know if it's organic though). And when you pluck off all those leaves (very carefully, so as not to spread the spores even more), you should bag them up very carefully and tightly, or burn them. Don't compost them, because you'll just be incubating the spores into your compost, which will cause further trouble. Good luck! We're in NJ and were nailed by the same rainy weather you probably had, so it's been quite the uphill battle for us too.

I don't compost any of my tomato plants, healthy or diseased, I pull them all after first frost and dump them in the pasture for the horses to eat. And I rotate the tomatoes from one end of the garden to the other every year- and since I added a new corn patch this year it will be a three year rotation. Between that and pruning the lower foliage to prevent soil contact and using drip irrigation (and living in an area with almost no rain in the summer) I haven't lost a plant yet this year and all 40 tomato plants look very healthy.

Re: the nutrient issue-- there are folks who post here who grow hydro who may see your post, but I would also ask the hydroponics forum in the meantime. The pale leaves with still-green veins looks like an early nitrogen and/or mag deficiency, but hydroponics is a whole different deal than growing in soil, As for the lesions... It doesn't look like spray damage to me, and it doesn't look much like Septoria. It might be the start of the concentric/target pattern in other diseases like EB or target spot, and botrytis is also a possibility, especially considering the paleness of the lesions. I did spray with a fungacide to kill aphids. Is it possible the fungacide spray caused this? Aphids are not fungus. I guess some fungicides may be somewhat toxic to aphids, and the simple physical action of liquid being sprayed and running off is good at knocking back aphids because it washes them off. A lot of people use just plain water and squirt off the aphids with a vigorous spray. That approach tends to work best outdoors, though, where there are beneficial predators to clean up many of the straggler aphids. If you continue to have aphid problems, you'll need to get something like insecticidal soap to more directly and efficiently address the aphids. Fungicide is an inefficient way to kill insects if it is effective at all. EDIT: if you're using neem, it can work on aphids AND fungus. That said, you apparently needed a fungicide anyway, so it worked out for the best. Are the spots limited to just the leaves in the photo or has it spread to other places on the plant? If only on the leaves in the photo or just a few leaves here and there, I would document well with photos in case you need to refer to them later, prune off the affected foliage, and repeat fungicide application in a week or so. What fungicide are you using?