I know you are just asking for price comparison and I don't have numbers to share for that. As others have shared there are so many variables that will contribute to that cost. I did want to share that I have been in a lot of new homes with 10 foot ceilings and cabines go the top can feel very awkward if not carried out well. I wanted tall cabinets, but didn't want to have everything to the 10 foot height of ours, so opted for a variation. We went with a large sized coffered ceiling in our house that is under construction. The crown on all of the upper cabinets will touch the bottom of the coffered ceiling beams. With the exception of the baking area (cabinets between the double ovens and fridge cabinet) these cabinets were dropped even lower. Excuse that we are unfinished, but you kind of get the feel. we still used glass in the upper sections and the cabinets are huge. Great for decorations or things you use once a year.

I think it's important that the room (& the windows & doors) be large enough to balance the imposing scale of cabinets to a tall ceiling; otherwise, it might be a bit overwhelming. My kitchen is one end of a great room (approx 1/2 the room) that is 14'x37'. The ceiling is 11' (150 year old house) with pantries on one side going all the way up & the opposite wall has cabinets to approx. 10'; the short connecting wall has a tall window & door that repeat the sense of height but give a visual break; & the opposite end of the kitchen is open to the living area. If the kitchen had been narrower or enclosed instead of opening into another area, I suspect the super tall cabinets would feel top-heavy. Likewise, regular height cabinets would look dwarfed against the rest of my architectural components.

Our house is in progress. We're doing JUST that...a contoured wood hood to the ceiling and 10 foot cabinets with molding above (the molding and the hood are not on yet) Here's some pics of the VERY rough kitchen without anything other than cabinets with unadjusted doors: Here's the hood. Well, not THE hood. The paint wasn't right so it has to be fixed. But that's the shape minus the molding at the top: Sink side of kitchen. I wish I'd have gotten a better shot since you can't see the glass cab on the right of the window. But you can see that in the range wall pic above I guess. There will be a window seat to the area to the left of the kitchen (that's the dining table area) with solid-door hutches on each side of those wing walls that face inwards. We are doing those to the ceiling to break up the line of cabinetry around the room and add height along with the hood. The built-ins on either side of the fireplace (that's covered up with that big board over on the left side) will go to 8 feet. Those will be cabinets on bottom and open shelves on the top with the backs painted out a gray shade: I looked to nini's kitchen for inspiration too. It's so pretty! Here's some kitchens with hoods to the ceiling and cabinets down a foot or two:

First, I think the 42/18 cabinet proportion works. But in general, I try to not take cabinets to a 10' ceiling. I did it in the photo I posted because they were spec houses and the builder wanted two different looks. I prefer the option where the cabinets do not go to the ceiling. I do not think the other option is as successful in regards to proportion (it feels top heavy). This is another example of where I took the cabinets to a 10' ceiling: I think this one is more successful because it's larger, has a mix of closed cabinets and open shelving and is balanced by a very large window. I think good scale and proportion can be overlooked in design in favor of the notion that cabinets HAVE to go to the ceiling. I would look at your plans and elevations with a critical eye to make sure you are choosing the best option for your space.