My $161.95 early bird service for my JD GT275 turned into $375.81 service. see under posting "John Deere Lawn Tractor Buying Advice Needed: X300 or LA series" Thing of it is I've gotten just as good as life out of my Sears, oh well, The same thing happened when I bought a Lincoln Continental, T-birds were just as good but cost a good deal less. Now retired, I sold the Lincoln 2 weeks before I retired, because of the cost factor. Now, I use my wifes Avalon when I need a car, or just climb up into the Dodge Ram - yeh, it's a hemi. Like I've said I like HP. Enjoy, the cub, dragging that deck alittle at the shed door will do alot less damage than leaving it set out in the weather.

jkom has given you great advice. The Meyer looks great, well planted, no grass to compete, etc. I would recommend placing them on a drip system, since citrus do need a fair amount of water, especially in the hotter areas of the country. They also need well draining soil, which you probably have based on where you are. If planted in clay soils, they should be elevated, and the water well provided at the drip line lower than the tree crown. You may need to expand the wells as your trees grow, as you really want the water to pool in a circle around your tree at the drip line (edge of the canopy), as that's where your tree's feeder roots reside. Use a good fertilizer formulated for citrus, which will be higher in nitrogen and will contain micronutrients. You'll want to fertilize at regular intervals, and for you that should be February, May, and early October, but you can check with your local Master Gardeners for any additional timing for your specific area. It also would be beneficial for you to mulch your wells with compost or composted manure. That will do two things for your citrus: provide some water retention in your very arid climate, and also provide additional slow release nitrogen, both very helpful for growing citrus in arid climates on sandy or DG soils. I mulch my citrus at least once or twice a year with a small amount of chicken manure (very hot, so use sparingly), and then top with compost and wood chips as I'm on nearly pure DG, so very little organic material in my soil. For us here in S. California for the most part, iron deficiency is actually rarely an issue, as our soils have plenty of iron (but possibly jkom is in an area that is deficient - California is a gigantic state with some fairly wide differences in soil makeup). It is usually a manganese deficiency we see here, and that tends to be the same for AZ. I would check with your local Master Gardeners, again, though, to find out what your soil issues are, and fertilize accordingly. You can also use a micronutrient foliar spray too, which works very well if you notice your leaves getting pale or yellowish. Grow More Citrus Grower's Blend is a good micronutrient product. And do support your branches on your young trees, especially the Meyer, as Meyer's tend to be very prolific producers (my Meyer has no less than 50 to 100 fruit on it at any given time, I have Meyer lemons coming out my ears). Lastly, you are very fortunate to have quite a bit of online support for citrus in your state. I've included a link below, which also has additional links for you. Definitely check out Arizona Cooperative Extension's web site, it is a great resource for those growing citrus in AZ: http://extension.arizona.edu/maricopa/citrus-publications Your Master Gardeners are part of the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, and are a great, great resource for home gardeners. Here's a link to your AZ Master Gardener manual: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck, looks like you're off to a good start! Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: AZ Citrus

Amber, check with your local ag agent, or one of the well respected citrus tree growers/nurseries in your area, Maybe not the person you bought the trees from, as their knowledge sounds a little wanting. New citrus don't need a lot of fertilizer the first year, but after that year, you should start fertilizing in the early spring (after any chance of frosty temps have passed), then 4 applications during your growing season, which would be roughly February through Sept/early Oct. The spots - not sure, can't really see them up closely enough. Doesn't look like an insect. Looks more fungal in nature to me, which I find odd since you're in such a dry area of the country. The damage to the leaves in the first photo could be from snails, earwigs or other leaf-eating bugs. I try not to treat (except for snails, which I use an iron phosphate snail bait versus a metaldehyde snail bait, as metaldehyde is very poisonous to dogs, and dogs are attracted to it. No so for iron phosphate snail bait.) You can also use Sluggo Plus, which is iron phosphate and spinosad, which will kill sails, slugs and earwigs. Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: UC IPM - Managing Pests in the Garden: Citrus

why all the hostility and personal attacks? We are all here to help and offer the best advise to the best of our ability and knowledge. Its quite obvious that most of us are just "hobby" growers. I dont see the leaf minor damage or slug damage but then again Im not an expert. I will say this that in the 3 years I have had citrus and tropicals I have never had leaf minors on any of them here in Oklahoma where the OP lives. I dont think they are as common as areas that are more inclined to grow citrus. I could be wrong but thats my experience. I am however an expert in dealing with our intense Oklahoma sun which on a hot August day can literally fry an egg on a sidewalk, Ive seen it done. In fact some of my trees suffered damage exactly like what the OP's leaves did when we had 3 weeks straight of 105F+ and low humidity. Some of you may not know or care but Oklahoma set the all time average high of 89.1F for the month of July and august wasnt to far behind. Oh and John I produced three meyers this year so Im getting close,LOL. Mike