I have lots of Royal Standard & Invincible Hostas for trade, please see my want list or make me an offer.

Hi, Plantingman. You are wise to take the drier climate seriously, althoough the fragrant ones will need the usual amount of water. I hope they can deal with your climate to make you proud to grow hosta good looking as you wish. If the Stained Glass and Guacamole are doing fine, you are on the right track, IMHO anyway. Royal Standard as someone else said earlier grows quickly, and there is a second flush of growth later in the season to make the plant look perky again. One nice thing is it is now among the less expensive to buy from reputable mail order nurseries. Since I keep the majority of my plants in containers, I like to get multiples of the major players in the plantaginea family. Besides Mama plant herself, I have 7 other plantaginea. Then 3 or 4 of Royal Standard, Aphrodite, 2 Grape Fizz, 2 Stained Glass, 2 Guacamole (nothing crazy like TWENTY THREE......), 2 Frozen Margarita, and more than I wish to name of random other fragrants. They are my passion you might say. Anyway, by keeping multiples I can experiment with different locations for the same variety. It doesn't take long to observe fried leaves with too much sun. Unless it is late PM sun, just before the sun drops below the pine trees across the street, they should not be in AFTERNOON sun. Some early morning through mid morning sun seems the very best exposure. And, good air circulation, important to keep disease at bay. Not sure if southern blight stops at the Mason Dixon Line,but if you continue getting hot still days it could happen to you as well. So shade and fresh air are important to the sweating leaves.

I was doing a little more reading up on HVX and found the 2007 update from hosta library. I will be posting the link for the full article. Here is a quote to the home gardener: Hosta Virus X - Fall 2007 Update by Bill Meyer "GARDENER ALERT!!! This summer I think it is time to declare a moratorium on cutting flower scapes or cutting off hail- or frost-damaged foliage. These practices are just too risky in times like these. Hosta gardeners around the world must now accept the possibility that they may have an infected plant or two in their collection. There are just too many infected plants out there to feel very safe about it. I think we should all stop these and other sap spreading practices for a period of three years while we wait and check to see if any plants are showing HVX symptoms. This could make the difference between tossing a plant or two and ruining half of our collections. If you must cut hostas, you can do it safely by cleaning your tools after each plant. Use bleach or ammonia and clean them thoroughly." I would hope that you who choose to keep infected hosta document their growth and take pictures of them every month or so from one season to the next and create a post here documenting the progression, possible improvements, or disappearance of symptoms as these hosta mature. I think it would be a fantastic learning experience for all of us if you are willing to share your findings. As far as I have been able to tell so far there has been no documentation of hosta that have been allowed to continue with the disease. All are encouraged to discard infected plants. The possibility of crossing over to other species of plants exists as well. If the hosta are given a chance to grow and develop a resistance/immunity to the virus we may never know if someone does not document the progress of the virus within their own gardens. Here is a link that might be useful: 2007 HVX Update from HL

Well, poo! I've been doing everything right--at least I thought so. I only watered when the plant was dry. And I am using a mix of orchid mix and peat (Miracle Gro) along with added perlite. The mix does have bark chunks in it, and the water goes through it fast, and doesn't seem to be holding onto moisture either, as it's dry within a week. I hate repotting it at this time of year, and knowing how hoyas hate it, but I can't let it continue on like this either. That was the only leaf that looked like that. All the others are normal. Pic is attached. It sure looks healthy to me. Should I wait and see if another leaf goes bad? I only put it in dappled sun so you could see it better. It normally gets no sun. Maybe I need to change that?