Water hammer after turning main back on (returning from vacation)
leslie2004
9 years ago
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klem1
9 years agoRelated Discussions
question for the pros--Water Hammer
Comments (5)pressure has not changed, i have not put a guage on it btu it feels pretty much the same as it always did. i also have a well for irrigation and i know it runs at 60PSI. it seems that the bibbs onthe well have stronger flow than the house bibbs, so i assume my pressure is less than 60 PSI. i am on a Rural water association, and they have not added on anywhere in our area. that is what is so funny about it, NO other device inthe house causes this except the shower inthe MB. when you quickly AND fully turn the diverter from tub to shower, it sort of pauses for a split second where there is no flow thru either the spout or the shower head. not long, just a blink of an eye, but when it does this it starts surging. for 3-4 secodns after the shower comes on the water surges like the pressure is bulding and lowering. this produces a mild thump-thump-thump inthe MB. but inthe hall bath 30 or so feet upstream the pipes rattle the walls loud enough to be heard up front. the valves are the old Price Pfister 3 valve tub/shower style with no anti-scald. i have not had a chance yet to pull it out and check the washer, that is a project for tomorrow. i need to shut off the water and change the washer inthe other bath anyway since it leaks half the time....See MoreWater hammer problem
Comments (26)Well, I didn't read the whole thread but if you have low pressure and are getting some pipe banging I can almost guarantee its a loose pipe somewhere. Long story short I've been in my home for 15 years. Always had pipe banging whenever I would shut off a tap, regardless where it was. My pressure is about 65psi so I installed hammer arrestors everywhere. No difference at all. I also have the air gap pipes but they made no difference either. A month ago I was replacing a bathroom faucet and noticed the pipes coming into the cabinet were loose. I could move them several inches. I checked the other water supplies and low and behold same thing, even the toilets! I took some expanding foam and sprayed it around the pipes where they enter the cabinet. I know its not ideal but I'm not removing cabinets and drywall to secure a pipe. The foam expanded, dried and essentially secured the pipes. I did this on all the pipes and my plumbing is now quiet as a church mouse. I lived with that for so long and all it took was a $5 can of Great Stuff to fix. Tell your GC to fix it. Its his problem not yours....See Morewater hammer problem
Comments (3)manhattan42 - Thanks for the help. A couple of updates: I checked the following: (1) No clamps have been removed from the piping in the basement. (2) The sound is more like a steady groan that lasts five to ten seconds rather than a percussive hammer sound and seems to come from the basement. (3) The last time I heard the sound -- this morning when an upstairs toilet and sink were used for the first time since last night -- the sound started while the sink water was still running. When I add those observations together, I wonder if it's the case that water pressure along the long Pex line to the sprinkler is greater than water pressure through the copper tubing that is used elsewhere in the basement. The Pex line is 1-inch; the copper is 3/4". Is it possible that when water is drawn from the house, water in the Pex line is running backwards to the T-connection to the main copper line and causing it to vibrate? The walls of the Pex line is thicker than copper, so the interior dimension isn't 1/4" bigger, but it may be somewhat bigger. If that is the problem, how might it be fixed? How could I distinguish if that is the cause or if it's what you suggested?...See MoreAir in water line after returning home with water off
Comments (3)You have to understand the physical properties of water on this one and while it is technically true that you have a leak, I doubt very seriously if it is a leak that requires any action on your part. Water reaches maximum density (8.34lbs/gallon)at 39degF and if heated or cooled from that temperature it expands. When heated from maximum density temp of 39degF water undergoes a fairly linear expansion up to about 10% by volume at the boiling temperature and when it flashes to steam it immediately expands another 1628 times by volume (1sq.in of water produces 1sq.ft of steam). The actual boiling temperature and rate of expansion is affected by the working pressure however I don't have the pressure temperature tables immediately at hand, and understanding that the working pressure can vary considerably from one location to another, for the sake of illustration allow us to use numbers that we are all familiar with. Water expands approximately 10% by volume from maximum density (39degF) to boiling temperature, which is 212degF at Standard Atmospheric Pressure) for a total differential of 173degF. Per code, we set our water heaters to 125degF therefore the temperature differential between cold water coming in at maximum density, again 39degF to the set point of 125 = 86degF. From this we can see that the differential between maximum density and the working temperature of our hot water system is approximately 50% of the total differential between maximum density and maximum expansion, therefore if we have a maximum expansion of 10% by volume, we could then say that the expansion in our hot water system is approximately 1/2 the maximum or 5% by volume. No let us put this all in perspective. If you have a 50gallon water heater and you fill it from a cold start with water at 39degF as the water heats up to the 125degF calling temperature the water will expand to approximately 55gal by volume. Under normal circumstances as the water expands the additional volume is compensated by water backflowing through the supply line to the municipal main or the well pressure tank. (This also explains why we are required to install an expansion tank near your water heater whenever we install a pressure reducing valve or a check valve on your water main.) Now in relation to the question at hand, how does air get in the lines? Under normal circumstances if we turn the water heater off the expanded hot water will slowly cool to room temperature thus the expanded hot water will contract. As the water contracts additional water will come in the supply line to maintain the total volume in the hot water system however, the post states that they turn the water heater off and close the house main water valve. Under these circumstances as the expanded hot water cools the supply has been closed off therefore as the hot water contracts it leaves a void in the pipes. We previously concluded that the amount of expansion was approximately 5gal by volume. A 1/2" pipe contains 1 gallon for every 98 linear feet of pipe and a 3/4" pipe contains 1 gallon for every 43.4 feet of pipe thus in all likelyhood 5gal by volume is greater than the total volume of all your hot water pipes in the structure. Now given that the water will contract and flow back to the water heater, the lines are then left with a vacuum and nature abhors a vacuum. Under these circumstances air will enter the pipes through microscopic pores or crevices or through faucet & valve mating surfaces which are no doubt to small to even pass a molecule of water. In this case it is enough to just understand what is happening and there is no further action required....See Moreexecutech79
9 years agoleslie2004
9 years agoexecutech79
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9 years agoleslie2004
9 years agoexecutech79
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9 years agoAmir Landi
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8 years agoAmir Landi
8 years ago
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