I bought my Toro 20332 Personal Pace lawn mower last Spring and it did everything perfectly for the first 4 uses. Then it became harder and harder to start often taking 10 -15 pulls of the rope. Saw many of the suggestions on websites to no avail. However, yesterday I discovered the problem and wanted to share the fix with those having a similar experience. Upon close examination of the carburator, I discovered the choke is not being set to the closed position prior to startup due to a slipped alignment of the choke-vane. Will explain... Checking for problem: Remove the air filter and look into the throat of the carburator. The brass flap(choke plate), nearest the air filter side of the carbuator should be in the closed position. This allows more fuel to be drawn into the engine during start-up. Once the engine starts, the fly-wheel fan blows air against the choke vane (piece of plastic), that levers the choke into the open position, thus leaning the mixture. If the choke plate is not in the closed position, gently press the vane arm (piece that runs along the top of the carburator and is responsible for positioning the choke plate), towards the engine. note: Press on the side of the vane furtherest away from where it comes into contact with the carburator. As you move it, so will the choke plate. Move it until the choke plate is in the closed position- that's it! note: To gain access, may have to remove the plastic engine cover (two screws on top cover) and the plastic piece located just above the air filter (one screw). Also, may have to remove the three 8mm bolts that secure the plastic piece around the mouth of the carbuator - I should have paid more attention. Fix can be made in less than 5 minutes, however. Once I made this "re-adjustment" mower is back to doing everything perfectly - even starting on the first pull of the rope. Good luck, Mike

Well, I cleaned up the coil face. Checked the carb again and after assembly this time, I noticed the bowl wasn't very snug and fuel was leaking. Got a overhaul kit and replaced all parts. I think the pin seat was shot too. After all was assembled, it started right up.

I am hesitant to post it here because of length but will this one time, send direct after this. This is from previous post. While difficulty in cranking is a fairly common complaint with these engines the problem is very seldom due to valves needing adjusted unless someone has just done a valve job and did it poorly. This is an "L" head or "flat head" engine, the valve adjusting problem is common to Over Head Valve engines. The starter is taxed to its' limit when all else is ideal. Adjusting the valves of this engine is a major undertaking, not one I would try to give you a step by step on but requiring a Service Manual. First I would be sure you have a good battery, that all battery connections are good, clean at the battery AND where the cables attach to the solenoid and to ground. I would check the starter output shaft where it exits the end plate/mounting bracket. Is there excessive side to side play? The top bushing tends to wear egg shaped and allow the armature to drag on the field magnets. Some times a field magnet will come unglued from the starter housing and drag on the armature. Putting 3 - 4 drops of oil on the shaft where it exits may help as the bushing may be dry. Also the brushed could be worn, bad, but not likely. A fairly common cause of hard cranking for these engines is carbon build up in the combustion chambers. This increases the compression ratio and thus the cranking effort required. The head can be removed and the carbon manually removed but if the engine will start, I would use a few tanks of fuel with SeaFoam mixed in it according to instructions on the can. This should remove carbon build up and save the expense of new head gaskets and the time involved. I have had people tell me that too small a battery cables caused excess resistance and the starter does not get enough amperage. It is possible the starter solenoid is at fault but not likely. Using an old screw driver to jump between the two large posts of the starter solenoid will help tell if this is the problem. Do not do this timidly or you will get a lot of sparks, stab it like you mean it. It is also possible the starter its' self is weak perhaps from repeated attempts to make it turn a resistant engine. The starter should never be engaged for more than a few seconds at a time with rest (cool down) between. Excessive heat causes the windings to loose resistance and thus power. Good luck, Walt Conner

As said above, check that rocker arm studs are tight in the head also, you are torquing the center locking screw after adjusting the rocker arm adjusting nut? 60 inch lbs. Walt Conner