I can't speak for Tec's reliability but I can on Troy-bilt. The self propel feature is very weak, I would not pull the mower by itself. Not to mention that in less than a dozen uses, my rear wheel will not stay at the preferred cutting height adjustment. I have to use a bungee cord to keep it locked in place. Their service is practically non-existant and all I get are "form" answers telling me to take it to a third party repair shop. Don't get the Troy-bilt if I could sway you. And if you go online, you will see others saying the same thing.

I guess I'm the Dad in this case! I do remember having an el cheapo power mower (person propelled) when I was a kid (red and perhaps Western Auto) and using it for everything - a field at the rear of the house comes to mind... one day it was 3 feet high, the next it was "lawn". Anyway, everyone is always dumping on Craftsman tools and power equipment. I'm still using my Craftsman Eager One, 5HP, Tecumseh engine, that I purchased in 1984. I don't recall it ever failing to start except when the switch I installed to replace the dead-man handle died. It smokes, uses oil, but still cuts better than my $500 Troy-Bilt. At the beginning of the summer, I ran over a rock and bent the blade so that it was actually digging into the ground. Had to replace the blade plate and blade, but didn't faze the crankshaft or the upper crankshaft shear pins. The only maintenance I've ever done is occasionally replace the air filter, less occasionally replace the spark plug (do clean it annually), and change the oil. I think it is coming to the end of its long life and really hate the thought of getting rid of it. It really needs a total engine rebuild (chassis, etc. is still fine - no rust but lots of scrapes), but I just don't have the abilities. JimC

Current engines are set to run so lean that the solenoid is added to the bottom of carb to shut off gas to main metering jet to prevent "After Fire" due to lean mix. NOTE: This does not shut off gas to the float bowl as many think. Walt Conner

Popcorn: No Picasso here Bro lol ! My point was the Creative Editing is not req'd. You call it tomatoe I call it tomotoe . The Jest of my Post was to IDENTIFY SAFETY as PARAMOUNT IMPORTANCE to the Manual Shut off Valve Requirement from Mownies Original Advice. Not for Internal Engine Damage Protection due to compromised oil integrity from gas contamination . Although very important point for Engine Integrity , it is secondary to Fire Damage and Personal Injury or loss of life in a House Fire Situation. Did not wish to get in a debate over semantics . Mownie is correct there is a definite diference within Normal Fuel Inlet Needle Valve and more Precise Fuel Inlet Metering Valves . I have work on both types . Mostly Walbro WB & WG Series Carbs on Chainsaws Pioneer , Solo , Jonsered referred to as Metering Needle Valves . Also Keihein NG Tiltison HD Series within various Snowmobile's Snow-Jet & Arctic Cat & Polaris were again the Needle Valves are referred to Metering Needle Valves . Both examples are Atmospheric & Density (sensitive) controlled units . However the secondary examples within snowmobiles are 2-stage Inlet Needles with primary and secondary fuel circuits. Much more precise fuel delivery back in the 70's . Sorry probably a little too much info. Mownie is a Smart Dude just gets a little carried away with the Editor and Chief Title . Neither form of Fuel Inlet Control Valve Application would have Confused or Negated the Point that I was making "Safety" over Engine Maintenance. Anyhow I hope the OP gets his tractor running and installs the Manual Fuel Shutoff to protect his Investments as a Homeowner !