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Floating shelf fastener help

9 years ago

Hi all,

I'm looking for hardware ideas for fastening a floating shelf into a corner. I have a small shelf, matched to my cabinets, that I want to mount high up on the wall to hold a small receiver that drives the in-ceiling speakers in the kitchen, with the idea that minimal shelf support would be seen from underneath (this rules out common bracket shelf supports). The receiver is a 10 lbs. load.

The shelf's dimensions are: 9-1/2" x 12-3/4" x 9/16". Since it is so thin, I can't use these blind shelf supports (http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=51933&cat=3,43648,43649).

I was thinking of using small dowels or something similar for the edges that can contact the wall (any brilliant hardware suggestions for this?). The corner will be interesting - unfortunately, it's about 1" or so from the center of the 1x2 furring that supports the drywall ceiling. I was thinking of threaded rod, but I'm not sure how to use that without drilling through the bottom of the shelf (and more importantly, the ceiling support point is not within the area of the shelf). Maybe a chain and hooks would work, but I'm afraid that since the ceiling attach point would be outside the area of the shelf, it would try to pull the shelf away from the corner walls.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

Comments (4)

geoffrey_b
9 years ago
Here's the link to a corner floating shelf bracket

Floating shelf
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
9 years ago
Make (2) 1/2" x 3/4" x 8" wood cleats that match your shelf. Push a torpedo level into the corner and mark level on each wall. Draw a level line from the mark into the corner on each side. Run a bead of paintable caulk along the cleat, interrupted in two spots for hot melt glue. The hot melt will hold the cleats to the line until the caulk sets up. Caulk the shelf to the top of the leveled cleats and when the caulk sets up, this will easily hold ten pounds.
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I think your instincts about quantity are right on - 2 or 3 (depending on the height of the items to be displayed) feels right for the height of that space. You want to take a close look at the shelf images you posted and compare with your space. It's a little hard to tell without more images of your kitchen, but it looks like you have a "transitional" aesthetic, not quite modern but not quite traditional either. The shelf images you posted are both of very modern decor. The reason the long shelves look good is that they are very thick, and the reason the thick shelves look good is because the aesthetic is very modern. Floating shelves can certainly look good in a transitional setting, but they probably want to be thinner and therefore shorter. In addition, I would keep the layout symmetrical rather than staggered (again, staggered is more modern). Consider either a set of shelves of moderate length centered in the alcove or two sets of shorter shelves each centered over a pair of cabinet doors. If appropriate for the items you plan to display, you might also consider shallow picture ledges like the image below, rather than full depth shelves.
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basilisk
Original Author
8 years ago
@geoffrey_b: thanks, but I think the bracket is a bit large for my application.

@Joseph, thanks for your idea! Since the shelf will be high up the wall, the cleats would be visible. Do you see any issues if I caulk the shelf to the bottom of the leveled cleats instead? What kind of caulk do you recommend for the best holding strength?
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
8 years ago
It depends on how heavy the load is, but adhering the shelf to the bottom of the cleats in this application shouldn't be a problem. 100% silicone is very strong; I've had to remove it many times. Locktite Powergrab would work well also.
basilisk thanked Joseph Corlett, LLC

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