Interesting comparison of Aeoniums in grit vs. wet soil
kwie2011
9 years ago
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Nil13 usda:10a sunset:21 LA,CA (Mount Wash.)
9 years agopalmbob
9 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (11)Westes I do not remember seeing any; perhaps because most (not all) ppl do not use peat in mixes for succulents and are aware that it holds water for quite a while (unless hydrophobic). Perhaps you can test it for yourself? - I know you are aware of a thread by ewwmayo on the subject. Here are his instructions for testing: Required for testing: Digital scale, preferably in grams. Clean and dry pots (4" is adequate, needs to have one drain hole). Dry and clean plastic tub that can hold pot + water. Enough dry soil mix to fill your pot to the brim. (Peat in your case) Duct tape to seal bottom of the pot. Water. Steps for testing: Weigh the dry empty tub. Use a small piece of duct tape and seal the drain hole of one pot. It must be water-tight! Weigh the dry empty pot. With the pot on the scale, fill it with water and record the weight. Empty the pot and dry it. Fill the dry pot with your soil mix to the brim. Weigh the dry pot with your soil mix in it. With the pot with soil on your scale, fill it with water and record the weight. If the ingredients take some time to absorb water, you may need to wait a few minutes and top up the water to the top of the soil mix level. Carefully remove the pot and put your dry empty tub on the scale. With your pot over the tub, carefully peel a corner of the tape to let the water drain into the tub. If your hole is too big the mix will fall into the tub and skew your measurements. Weigh the water drained with the tub. Weigh the drained but still wet mix and pot. Formulae: Total Porosity = weight of water needed to fill pot / empty pot volume * 100. Air Space = weight of water drained from pot / weight of water needed to fill pot * 100. Water Holding Capacity = (weight of water needed to fill pot - weight of water drained from pot) / empty pot volume * 100. I am sure you can also google other instructions. If you test, could you post results pls? ETA: I found some data from sungro. They list following: Total porosity: 89 - 94 Water holding capacity: 74 -77 Air capacity: 12 - 20...See MorePine Bark Fines and Soil ph or Acidity
Comments (22)The best medium to plant newly rooted figs in is one that provides the greatest amount of aeration and ensures that aeration for the expected interval between repots but is still something you can deal with as far as the intervals between watering. IOW, you'll get the best growth from a soil you need to water daily or even twice a day, but if that is too inconvenient, you'll need to adjust to something more tolerable. How much vitality you sacrifice for convenience depends almost entirely on how far you go in the other direction and how fast air returns to the soil after a thorough watering. E.g., if you were using a soil/plant combination that required daily watering and could magically change the soil to one that only required watering every two days, there would be some degree of sacrifice in potential growth and vitality. If though, you could magically change to a soil that required watering only every 5 days, there would be a considerable sacrifice in growth potential and vitality. Soils that remain waterlogged for extended periods kill roots, and the plant pays to regenerate those roots by spending energy it would normally have put toward increasing mass, more blooms or fruit, extending branches ...... You may be referring to something I wrote about roots: While fig cuttings may root readily in water, the roots produced this way are quite different from those produced in a solid, soil-like or highly aerated medium (perlite, screened Turface, very coarse sand, e.g.). Physiologically, you will find these roots to be much more brittle than normal roots due to a much higher % of aerenchyma (a tissue with a greater percentage of inter-cellular air spaces than normal parenchyma). If you want to eventually plant your rooted cuttings in soil, it is probably not best to root them in water because of the frequent difficulty in transplanting them to soil. The "water roots" often break during transplanting & those that don't break are very poor at water absorption and often die. The practical effect is nearly equivalent to starting the cutting process over again with a cutting having diminished energy reserves. If you do a side by side comparison of cuttings rooted in water & cuttings rooted in a solid well-aerated medium, the cuttings in a solid well-aerated medium will always (for an extremely high % of plants) have a leg up in development on those moved from water to a solid medium for the reasons outlined above. Al...See MoreContainer Soils - Water Movement and Retention XXI
Comments (57)Hi Robin!!! I'm still getting notifications on the threads that I post to. You can adjust your setting by going to " your Houzz" then ' edit profile' then hit ' advanced settings' that should help fix what you need as far as notifications. If you look at the bottom of this thread where you would comment, you will see in green letters " switch off notifications about new threads". If its already off you can click it back on. Always nice to see you!!! One of my Plumeria trees is blooming inside right now. It's supposed to be a dark pink, but its yellow. Go figure!! ;-) I agree about Al reposting if they can't get it fixed. I am sure he has it saved on his computer. ( I hope so) I just worry about all of the other threads, fertilizer, intro for beginners etc. so much information that needs to be fixed for the new people. We need this great information for us to share as well as for the new people searching for the great threads. Happy Valentine's Day, Robin , Al and everyone!! Laura...See MoreAeonium Zwartkop Distress!
Comments (15)Ratio - Use a container at least 6-8" deep. In the bottom 1/3 of the pot, use a 2:1 mix of grit to commercial medium (respectively). Make the middle third a 1:1 mixture, and the top 1/3 a 2:1 mix of commercial medium to grit (respectively). As you add a layer, use a fork or stick to mix a little of the material you're using for the middle layer into the the upper half inch of the bottom layer. Repeat for the top layer. Gravel on the bottom is unnecessary. If fact, if you're concerned enough about your soil's water retention you think you might need a drainage layer, you should probably direct your energies toward improving the soil or taking other steps (that WILL work) to mitigate the limitations imposed by excess water retention. There are many things you can do that can turn a soil most experienced growers would consider unusable as it comes from the bag into something that can yield acceptable results. Ideally, your soil should be one you can pour into a pot, insert a plant, and water to beyond the point of total saturation every time you water; this, without need to be concerned the soil will remain wet so long it limits root function and/or causes root health issues. Once you get to that place, consistently maintaining a wide variety of plants in a high state of vitality will involve a lot less guesswork and be much easier. If you're interested in learning more, this would be a good starting point. Al...See Morepalmbob
9 years agokwie2011
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agokwie2011
9 years ago
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