Here is the closest thing I know of. There are a lot more details that will be needed before you can order anything. This one is a little over budget, but I am not sure you will find one in budget. Maybe someone else will have some better info. Here is a link that might be useful: Imperial from venting direct

Where duct equivalence is a requirement, two 8-inch ducts could be used to match a 10-inch duct. In any case, searching this forum should have led to commentaries on determining requirements before picking hoods. Decide how much cooking plume effluent you want to capture by how much the hood overlaps the possible cooking pans and locations. (Assume a 10-degree from vertical plume spread.) Then use the area of the resulting hood to determine needed air flow rate when performing hot cooking (even if it is on only one burner) by multiplying the area in square feet by 90 CFM/sq.ft. Then, for the case of going directly out the wall with free air flow MUA, assume a factor of 1.3 for baffle pressure loss. This will raise the rated CFM needed for the blower by 1.3 such that the rating should be 1.3 x 90 x area in sq. ft. (Note that this is less than the 1.5 I usually suggest for normal duct lengths, less than perfect MUA, and a duct silencer.) If the hood or insert is a VaH without baffles, use 1.1 to compensate for minor losses such as from the outside cap loss and imperfect MUA. Example: 45 ft x 2 ft = 9 sq. ft. Desired flow is 9 x 90 = 810 CFM. Rated flow for conventional baffled hood then should be 720 x 1.3 ~ a nominal 1000 CFM. While equal blowers mounted in the hood or just outside via a minimal duct length will have roughly the same noise, outside mounting may allow a larger blower that one can run at less than full speed. This will greatly reduce blade tip turbulence noise, which otherwise dominates. Abbaka and Wolf and Broan, for three examples, make down-roof radial blowers that should be adequate to mount on a wall. Exterior aesthetic considerations may influence inside vs. outside, but a low pressure loss cap will not be much larger than a motor housing, and you get a damper with the housing.

At the moment, I would call them concerns pending further information. First, do you have any combustion appliances connected, air wise, to the kitchen? Combustion appliances include furnaces, hot water heaters, and dryers. If they all have their own make-up air sources, then they don't count. Fireplaces count unless roaring hot and quite large, in which case they need their own make-up air even without any kitchen ventilation effects. One of two windows cracked open a couple of inches will perhaps achieve adequate make-up air for a quite low CFM requirement in lieu of wall cracks and other dusty paths. Bathroom exhausts and dryer vents should have dampers that will not allow enough MUA for any purpose. Gas fireplaces are required to not have dampers, so only the doors limit back-drafting. That is also an undesirable path. 300 CFM, for example, is 5 cubit feet of air per second. This would require more than a couple of inches of window, even if unscreened, to avoid an undesirable pressure drop in the house when combustion appliances are present. It will certainly degrade the flow rates of the kitchen ventilation blowers, more so with VaH squirrel cage blowers used in Magic Lung systems. What are the claimed CFM of the VaH inserts you are using? (Zero static pressure values not Magic Lung claimed equivalent values) What is the area (or dimensions) of the air intake aperture at the bottom of the hood assembly containing the inserts? Is there some overhang of the overall hood relative to the entry apertures of the inserts?

I hate wood hoods they get greasy and discolor from both grease and steam so can't help.But I guees if you do not use the range it won't matter.As for the insert you need to now go to a place tha sells inserts with your meaurements of the hood you have already ordered which BTW should have been oredered after you got the hood insert.