call an electrician before you void the warranty, cause a fire, or electrocute yourself!!! This is NOT a do it yourself project! Grounding counts! Doing it wrong kills people. And another thing- you send 240 volts at 30 amps back to your circuit breaker box, and the fire marshal's office will figure out the cause of the fire, tell your insurance company, and your policy will be void.

I'm surprised Wolf didn't include a flexible conduit with conductors inside as has been the style lately for built-in units.

Anyway, the set screws work best with solid conductor wire. Stranded wire conductors should have ferrules to constrain the small wires making up the conductor. (See insulated ferrules, MSC catalog page 3622.)

It appears from the picture that the green screw is grounding the neutral at the range. Generally, it is preferable to ground without using neutral, and send both a grounding conductor back to the breaker box along with a neutral conductor. What can work depends on your house wiring. Your range installation directions should explain this in detail. If you do not have an installation manual, perhaps one is available at Wolf's web site.

In any case, the advice about consulting with an electrician is essential advice. Anyone wanting to practice electrical installation on his house wiring should acquire, read, and understand the relevant parts (and there are many) of the NFPA 70 2014 Handbook.

kas

It is a free-standing range not a built in unit. I didn't know about the solid conductor wire (and to be honest I'm not sure the electrician would have told me about it either, seeing that I already have this power cord). But I am going to try to get one, and consult an electrician instead. Thank you!

It looks like it's all 240v and doesn't use the white neutral.

It does use green and white as neutrals, it's a 4 prong cord.

Ask Wolf why there is no set screw for the white neutral.

My SMEG oven is all 240 - no white wire used. If the ranges uses 240 (no 120 volt light bulb, etc) then it won't need the white neutral.

I believe SMEG is European. I believe Wolf is not.

Take a gander at the installation guide. If I'm looking at the correct model (duel fuel 48"), this unit can accommodate either 3-wire or 4-wire connections. So what do you have at the receptacle (assuming that you are not hard-wiring the unit)? If 3-wire, then the cord needs to be 3-pronged (2 hots and a neutral) and the ground stays connected to the center post. If 4-wire, then the cord needs to be 4-pronged (2 hots, neutral and ground) and the ground post needs to be detached (removed, sawed off, cut) from the (neutral) center post. I cannot see plainly in your picture, but it may be that if you unscrew the green ground screw that metal strap will come out.

All 220v appliances built in the USA since around 1996 are set up to accept four conductor wires.

BTW, I've never seen an appliance cord with solid wire, but that does not mean one does not exist.

If your cord, receptacle, and circuit breaker are rated for the same amps as your range, you should be good to go.

Having installed an appliance where the receptacle was 3-wire, I will repeat that the Wolf can accommodate either a 3-wire or 4-wire connection.

I noticed in the photo that the ground is bonded to the white wire in the terminal block - meaning that the neutral and ground are the same.

This infers that it doesn't use 110v - cause the white and ground would have to be separated. The would indicate that you connect the ground to the middle of the terminal block. They should call Wolf.

I agree weedmeister, but the op already noted he/she has a 4 prong cord, so I was assuming a 4 hole receptacle as well...

I have a Wolf duel fuel on order and prepping the area for install. Since you did not hard wire the electrical, was there a cut out on the appliance so the additional wire cable would not interfere with the range pushed up against the wall flush. Wondering what length of cable your purchased?