Questions about Imazapyr and trees
Emily Berg
9 years ago
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morz8 - Washington Coast
9 years agoEmily Berg
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Question about overwintering potted tree
Comments (6)"...ps: why cant you just heal it in ... and forget about it .... repot in early spring if you wish ..." Because I never dig a hole unless I absolutely have to lol!! Okay Ken, thanks, I think you're right. I'll treat it as I did all those perennials. By the way, I had that many potted plants for several reasons. My gardens were new and I bought more than I could plant because beds weren't planned or ready yet; I have waaaayyyy too much hard surface in my yard (90 foot driveway that goes along the house and into the back yard, ending in a big square of asphalt in front of the garage, which abuts a large brick patio) so I had lots of potted plants to break up and soften all the asphalt; I went to a couple of swaps a year and came home with too many "rescue plants", taken home at the end when those poor plants still didn't have a home; and I often have a hard time deciding where to plant something, so at the end of the season it needs to go into the garage until I can finally decide (kinda like this river birch haha!) :) Dee...See MoreA question about growing a rose up a tree trunk
Comments (10)I would just pant a climbing rose which grows in partial sun (get LOCAL advice from your rose society or others nearby re which roses would work in your area/climate) in the sunniest spot you can find near 2-3 ft away) the tree stump. Then, put a string or small rope from the rose to the tree stump. As the rose grows and gains height, tie it to the string or rope, and repeat, until it is touching the stump (they have proven that climbing roses will react to actually touching a support by climbing up it). Then, every time it puts out longer canes/growth, tie them higher up on the stump, and continue with further growth. Then it depends on what is surrounding your stump. If there are taller trees nearby, and you have chosen a tall climber, don't be surprised if the rose jumps over to a nearby tree and continues up it, until it reaches the canopy. If there are no trees (or buildings) within reach of a rose leaping from the top of the stump, you might want to use a shorter climber, or wrap it around the stump, as starchild did. I have sent several roses up trees this way - most of them eventually have reached the canopy way at the top of the tree (20-30 feet, or in one case it jumped over to a neighbor's tall pine tree and continued up. Climbing roses on trees DO NOT need to be tied up the whole way to climb - they evolved to climb up trees without human help - you just need to get them started. Or, another idea - we have a HUGE (about 5 ft in diameter, and 7 ft high) scarlet oak stump in our front garden, surrounded by nothing but bushes, and the fence between it and the neighbor's driveway. Great view of the neighbor's house, unfortunately. We got a MOON GATE shaped trellis thingy, and my DH built a raised bed around the stump, and put the trellis over the tree stump, and grew a rambling rose on it. Here are the before and after pictures (WHAT neighbor's house?): Jackie...See MoreUpdate/Questions About My Lemon Tree.
Comments (8)I ended up taking it out of the 7 gallon pot and put it back in a 3 gallon (what it came from the nursery in) The roots looked fine so I am a bit more inclined to think that I burnt it. I made some more 511 mix but made sure that all the bark was under 1/2 inch (smallest sifter I have on hand). I also used 1.5 parts perlite instead of 1 and used 1/4 part worm casting and 3/4 part peat moss because I want to just give it water for a bit to try to get it to recover but still want some nutrition in the soil. When I used the liquid fertilizer on it before I first watered it with normal water then gave it a half gallon of fertilized water but I did not water it in after so I am thinking it was too concentrated on the roots. Now I know to water it in afterwards. It is still looking pretty rough and I am sure all of those leaves are going to die off as their stems where the first part to die. I am hoping the branches themselves don't die back too much but they have all changed from green to a brownish color. Do you think that it has a chance if I give it just water for a few weeks? I guess I can play it by ear, debating on pulling the leaves off. This sucks pretty bad but I will not give up!...See MoreQuestions About Transplanting Potted Trees
Comments (12)When, or under what conditions is it appropriate to transplant them? What about pruning - I think the Stewartia is about as large as is appropriate for the space. If you're looking to maximize ramification (branch and leaf density) you should prune all the second order (and higher) branches back to 2 buds anytime after leaf drop and before spring budswell. Then, look the tree over for opportunities to shorten primary branches and the tree's ht, considerably, to a shape you can build on. A primary/ first order branch is one attached to the trunk; a secondary/ 2nd order branch will be attached to a 1st order; and a tertiary (3rd order) attached to a second order, etc. When, or under what conditions is it appropriate to prune them? Stewartia: heavy pruning should be done while dormant. Pinching can be done anytime you have a pair of sharp scissors/ secateurs in your hand. To pinch, wait until any branch has 2 or 3 leaves on it, then terminate/prune/pinch the branch beyond the second or 3rd leav. This will force new lateral branches in the leaf axils proximal to the pinch. The roots for both are quite pot-bound - should I prune the roots? There is a significant difference between potting up and repotting. Potting up is a half measure that only relieves the stress of root congestion by a fraction; whereas, repotting includes bare-rooting (in most cases), root pruning, and a change of soil. Repotting entirely removes the stress associated with root congestion while repotting ensures root congestion will be a permanent limiting factor, at least until a pair of hands gets into the root/soil mass to correct congestion and problem roots. The stewartia should be repotted in late March or early April before or just at the onset of budswell. The umbrella pine (not a true pine) can be repotted when deciduous trees in the landscape start showing green. It shouldn't be bare-rooted, leave some soil on the root mass. It will also be helpful if you chop up a handful of the fine roots and mix it into the new soil as an innoculant for whatever fungi the plant might have formed a symbiotic relationship with. Both trees should be protected from frost after onset of spring growth. If so, can you suggest a good resource for learning about root-pruning? Try Here What do you recommend for the soil in the new pots? The medium should be something you can water to beyond the point of complete saturation, without concern the medium will remain soggy for an extended period, affecting root function or worse, root health. That means it should be based on a very large fraction of coarse material unless your pots will be resting directly on top of the ground/ mineral soil. If the pot rests on the ground, from the perspective of hydrology, it becomes a small raised bed because you have the earth acting as a giant wick to pull excess water from the container. The only caveat is that there must be direct contact, a bridge, if you will, between the medium in the pot and the earth for this to work. I use 2 different soils, though in recent years my gardening in containers has morphed almost entirely to trees and a few succulents, which means I now primarily use the medium in the second image below. If your pots rest on the ground, you can use media that would otherwise be too water retentive, especially for the umbrella pine. Much more info about soils if you click me....See Moremorz8 - Washington Coast
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