thanks! I am looking at those kits as an option. Probably no more expensive than building one myself, and definitely easier. I'm going to start looking/asking around. I don't think garden centres will be up and going until sometime in april, but might be able to find out what's coming in. There's a couple good garden stores not far from me so will check there first. Hopefully I can get any materials (including soil) delivered so I don't have to haul/taxi them from the store.

Does anyone have any experience with fabric grow bags? The really big ones? This looks like another cheap option, but I don't know if they would survive the winter, and I don't want to have to remove/refill soil every year.

Another option to look into, if it's something that would work for you is EarthBoxes. I have 5 of them that were given as gifts 10 years ago, and they're still in great shape for use, even after 6 moves. We've been in apartments and had them on the patio, and now in a townhouse backyard. One has warped a little on the bottom where I had it on casters, but I think it was the toddlers climbing on it, rather than the soil weight that did it. Have grown herbs, basil, tomatoes, peppers, cukes, carrots, lettuce in them with good success. Very easy maintenance, though if you put big tomato plants in them, they may need to be watered more than once a day in high heat.

Fabric grow bags are really increasing in popularity from all the reading I have done and my personal experiences with them have been quite good. Durable, easy to manage, and the price is certainly better than similar sized pots. Surviving the winter in your environment might be more difficult than it is in mine unless you dump them and put them indoors. There are several brands out there, some more heavyweight and durable than others.

Keeping them well watered can be an issue depending on your environment. Initially I solved my problem somewhat by making them self-watering with an inexpensive plastic container under them and some wicking material. Last year I set up a drip irrigation system with them and put it on a timer. Works well as long as the watering needs of the plants in them are the same. I also incorporate a band or ring of slow release fertilizer in them similar to that used in my Earthboxes. They have worked well for leafy greens, small squash plants, and determinate variety tomato plants for me.

As for raised beds vs. containers? Two very different types of gardening and plant needs so that choice all depends on the type of plants you want (many are just too big for containers), how much time you have to care for them (containers require much more care and attention to detail), and the level of production you want from the plants (container production will always be less than from in ground plants).

Dave

Yeah, fabric probably won't stand up to our crazy winters, or will get clawed to bits by the squirrels. Will probably either go the premade kit route, or get some cedar cut and put my drill to use, which ever comes out to be cheaper.

Also, a question about clay. The ground is pretty solid, but I'm going to have to dig down enough to level things out a bit. Should I leave the bottom of the beds open to the ground, or put down some kind of barrier?

I wish it wasn't still cold and raining out. i want to get started now!

If you are in a climate with serious temperature extremes, you should bear in mind that containers aren't as protective. The container temperature will pretty much track the air temperature. Roots are less tolerant of temperature extremes than leaves, so they need more protection. The temperature of at least the deep soil will be pretty much the average temperatures, and not extreme. Raised beds (depending somewhat on how high they're raised) pretty much have that soil as thermal ballast, so its temperature will stay likewise less extreme than soil containers where the air is in contact with large walls.

Protecting a containered plant from frost requires some careful wrapping, including covering a big chunk of the ground to add heat. For a bed, just toss some insulation over it.

As to hard clay, if you can afford some real excavating, you could make a ground level bed. Know anyone with a small dozer or a trencher?

I use untreated cheap lumber from home depot. 2 in. x 12 in. x 12 ft. will cost you a little over $20 and 2 in. x 12 in. x 16 ft. is about $27. So you can add few screws and have two planters of your size for $50 . They will last about 5 years. (At least this is how long they last for me.) By the year six I usually have new planting ideas and have to redo whole layout anyway. And I use half rotter boards on the bottom of my compost pile, use them as a weight to hold spring covers, on pathways and so on. My garden is on the hill( I mean HILL) and some of my beds are 2.5 feet high on one side. We just screw 2-3 boards together using a piece of a stud.

Should I leave the bottom of the beds open to the ground, or put down some kind of barrier?

Personally I don't like the effect barriers have on drainage from the bed. They can retard drainage and even develop a ponding effect drowning plants. Plus they can prevent root penetration into the deeper soil. Taproot plants like tomatoes need that room to roam.

So if you use one make sure it is something that water can penetrate and that will break down over time - sheets of cardboard is often recommended as it will keep down weed invasion and breakdown over a couple of seasons.

Dave

You commented on having lots of tree roots in the ground. I would check out the type of trees providing the roots, since some trees such as maples have a lot of surface roots that will aggressively grow up into your bed in a season or two and create issues with your veggies. While I vastly prefer having beds open to the ground, if you have trees that will invade the beds looking for the added moisture and nutrients in your veggie beds, I would mostly likely give them a base or even raise them off the ground. I had a pot sitting on the ground near a red maple, and in perhaps 3 years the roots had grown up through the drainage holes and to the top of the pot, about 2'. The pot now sits in a plastic base that prevents the roots from encroaching on the soil.

I'm becoming more of a fan of the cinder blocks bed, mostly because of the cheap price. You can even buy some top pieces that will change the look of those holes into something more fashionable.

Some people don't like how it looks, but I don't mind. So that's another factor you can think of -- do you care what other people think about the materials your bed is made of? If you don't care, then there are so many material options for making a raised bed. Some people even consider that with their cheap solutions, if it lasts 3-5 years or so, that's ok, they'll make more later and probably a little better after now knowing some of the weaknesses with the beds that they experienced.

On the other hand, the option of using planters means that you can have many more container types and designs that you wanted. Because many people don't grow in the winter time, that may not be a consideration for you either.

I am late commenting on original questions but agree that if there is a tree-roots problem, they will absolutely 'invade' any bed you will build. They will be attracted to more moisture & possibly more nutrients.
Cinder block beds could look reasonably well if you make sure they are level. Many ppl plant some flower or herbs into openings, and once they grow they usually cover lots of block. And you can plant many beneficial plants that way - or ornamentals.
I am sure you know about reStore - I stop by whenever in neighbourhood to see what's 'available'. Recently I found 7 cedar boards (2x6x10') for about 30% of reg. price. They were used on a deck, so almost no damage (just holes from screws and little change in color) and will last for few years.
Same with freecycle - often ppl. are giving away 'leftovers' - bricks, pavers, cinder blocks, wood board. Free, just pick them up.

UPDATE: My landlord and I looked around the backyard today, and he's going to let me have the sunniest side of the yard. I was reluctant to suggest that spot because there are a few small sapling growing, but he's planning on cutting those down. We're likely going to use landscaping bricks. 10x3 feet, up against a chainlink fence, where I'm going to put up some thick trellis to create more privacy & prevent things crawling/growing through, but not too high to block the light. 30sq ft should give lots of room to work with.

My next question: I want to do square foot gardening, but not sure if I can get my hands on enough vermiculite to do Mel's Mix. Any recommendations for what could be substituted? Mulch? just use peat/compost? I'll add in kelp meal as well.

Thanks for all the advice!

Couple of quick things...don't make the bed right up against the fence - with a bed 3ft wide you will need room on the fence side to reach into the bed. Leave about 3ft between the bed and fence (4ft if you can), enuff room for your legs from the knee to an extended foot (and more) so you can kneel down.

The peat has no nutrients so you can leave that out of the mix.

I don't think Home Depot does this anymore but I made lots of beds when they sold 'cull wood'. It was bent, warped, chipped, or had some other defect but was fine for the garden. They always cut it to 4ft lengths and the price varied from $.51, $1.01, $2.01, etc. I got most for $.51 or $1.01

Some were treated some not - some 2x some 1 or 3/4". The 2x will last longer. I have some untreated 2x beds 10y/o. I just placed the 4x4 frame on the ground, no corner post needed - they haven't gone anywhere yet either.

IMO the SqFt method is the way-to-go.

I think I'm going to put tall things (peppers) and climbing things like peas/beans closest to the fence, so it should work out ok.
As I mentioned, we are going to build it with edging stones/brick/cinderblocks (whatever my landlord gets for a good price.
If I can't get my hands on vermiculite, can I use wood chips/mulch as a substitute in the soil mix? There's also a really great potting soil I've been using for my containers the past few years (peat/vermiculite mostly) so could do a 1-1 compost/potting mix? Maybe I should bring this issue up in a new thread?

Check craigslist or freecycle for materials. Also, there is a SF gardening, and container gardening forum you might want to check into. Have fun! Nancy

Pegleg, wood chips are fine for surface mulch, but will tie up nitrogen when mixed into the soil unless they've been well composted ahead of time. You might want to start a new thread to ask about soil mixes. I just use native soil with compost turned in every year or two and it does fine, but I have good soil, and am not any type of expert.