The GU10 base is used for line voltage whereas the standard MR16 uses low voltage ~ 12V DC.

MR16 refers to the front portion - Multifaceted Reflector (MR)

So, is that why I can't find any GU10 LEDs?

They can be obtained online from Amazon, 1000bulbs (for example)

GU10 led

A plausible reason for the paucity of GU10 MR16 lamps is that the standard bi-pin MR16 lamp (50W) is brighter than the GU10 base variant and less bulky.

That is a very helpful comment above, Don. So, you feel that low voltage lighting will be fully replaced by LEDs? So when roughing in electrical, we should avoid any low voltage lighting and instead use LEDs in places we might have used low voltage in the past (i.e. small focused lights to light art). Of course, it would be wise to use LEDs everywhere if possible.

Have I over simplified your comments? We would like to finish our electrical rough in for our build. So many of the lighting design books still recommend low voltage lighting in some applications, but many of them were published 3-4 years ago, so much has changed with the advances of LED.

Carol

I oversimplified my own comment. I should have said that current 12v recessed lighting in new construction is obsolete now with Soraa Gu10 and PAR20 products. No need anymore for 12v MR16 halogen.

There are products like led string lights that are 12 or 24v with no line voltage alternative. So these products will still need a transformer.

I think the correct approach today is to use line voltage fixtures as the first choice, and do 12v only where necessary. Keeping the recessed fixtures with Gu10 and PAR20/30/38 bases and purchasing amps separately better future proofs lighting.

I suggest with Soraa to do some testing before buying a lot of bulbs. With non-soraa LEDs I use 2700K bulbs. But Soraa correctly illuminates saturated red, so I think most people will prefer the 3000K or even 4000K Soraa bulbs.

Thanks for your coments, Don. I appreciate the clear answer that low voltage can lights are no longer needed in new construction. Sorry for the dumb question, but can you further explain what you meant by:

Keeping the recessed fixtures with Gu10 and PAR20/30/38 bases and purchasing amps separately better future proofs lighting.

What exactly do you mean by purchasing amps separetely?

Carol

Most of my lights are/will be 110V LED conversions or WAC rail lights. The latter are 12 volt pendants, either Halogen or LED, hopefully Soraa.

Ontariomom,

I think Don meant keeping the lamps separate.

Yes, I meant "lamps".

Another thought to "future proof" new wiring is to specify that each switch location has a neutral wire. Many home automation dimmers require a neutral. A dimmer with a neutral wire reduces LED buzzing.

It is very little extra work for the electrician to run a neutral when putting in new wire.

Thanks Don, mtvhike and homepro for the clarification. So we will wire using line voltage wiring, get neutral wires at each switch location and replace the lamps (bulbs) with LED where we can. We will no longer need any low voltage wiring except where we might want LED string lights. Have I got this straight?

Also, any future proofing at switch locations (electrical rough in stage) if you feel you might want to instal RF wireless lighting automation switches at one point down the road.

Carol

I would say to design your lights, and don't assume that the MR16s need to be 12v. But you will know for sure if you can avoid 12v when you select fixtures.

For example, Nora has a neat, inexpensive recessed framing projector that is only available in 12v. It uses the tiny MR11 lamp. If I really wanted to design my art lighting around that fixture, I would need 12v.

Thank you for your reply, Don. I have found your info very helpful. Strangely, I did not get notification on your reply through my email or I would have thanked you earlier.

Carol