Do add to fofoca's great advice, "Be careful not to overwater while it's recovering" which was an awsome point, please don't miss it.. Then, to see the roots recover quickly, make sure when you pot it, to put in an open, loose, airy well draining soiless mix. The looser the soil, and the faster draining it is, the more likely you will avoid future root rot problems and let your roots breathe as soon as possible. Good air exchange and quicker drying out of mix, if you do so..Your roots will thank you for it! You want your soiless mix to dry out at least every couple of days. For some here, that is still to long to wait..For some, to much of a hassel to HAVE to water so frequently. Your plants will LOVE you for this too..lol Remember, the first most important thing is, the soiless mix you'll be using, then everything will follow to your benefit..:-) Happy growing and I hope everything goes well..

There is no way to tell you without complete info. First, most builders don't know plants. Second, if your irrigation company won't answer your questions you need to find a new company. Third, plants die. I don't know why but it seems atleast 10% of nursery sold plants just die, improper handling, etc. Another issue is that many plants must be planted at different depths to survive, and builders, and many landscapers, scary as it is, don't know this. Step one is find someone with references to take a look. Next, how many gallons per minute does your system flow? Most drip emitters yield 0.6 or 1.1 gphour. Actual sprinkler heads come in nozzle sizes of 0.5 gp minute to 10 gpm So 5 minutes may yield 2.5 gallons or 50 gallons. So how could we tell you a specific schedule? Next, what is your coverage? It should be uniform overlapping coverage. many builders space out the heads to save money and you wind up with dry spots. Also, every house is different, from soil mixture to contaminants, to plant types, layout, sun exposure, wind exposure, flow rates, spacing. and the big killer, since you rent, is animal urine possibly from the previous tenants pet. As far as different water needs per plant...If you have a drip aka micro-irrigation line, you can easily set the watering time based on gpm and plants most fragile in regards to frequency. Then, for the plants requiring larger amounts of water, add, or switch out the emitter to a higher flow one. Which would water like this...Once a week(drought tolerant yard with established plants) for one hour. Say you have 1 gallon per hour emitters. if placed properly each plant is getting one gallon, If you have 2 emitters near a plant it's getting 2 gallons, etc. Now, If you have sandy soil that water just goes straight into the ground. as an example, if i'm running and you throw a glass of water at me, i may catch a mouthful. If i sit at a table with that glass of water i can drink the whole thing. sorry for a bad analogy. I will also put the drip pipe in rows so that 1 emitter lines up on each side of the plant. this is important or half of the plant will brown out. spacing should be 1 foot with drip since a single emitter in avg conditions will spread 6 inches each way in a circle, hence 6 plus 6 is 1 foot, and they meet in the middle. additionally if the drip pipe emitters are spaced 1 foot apart on the actually pipe you will have 2 rows of 1 foot apart emitters, 1 foot from the other pipe, giving you a 1 foot wide path of irrigated soil as long as your rows. Ideally, with your plants smack in the middle. Find out the actual gallon needs for the plants. looking at the soil is pointless, except in placement of heads. you want to be just outside of the root to promote growth outward. You may check the soil and find it to be damp, but then an hour later because of climate the top inch or two evaporates from wind or heat. Then what you thought was a correct schedule is still leading to dead plants. Now, many drought tolerant plants are damn near impossible to kill, after all they live in the wild. But you have an established issue of dead plants. And yes less often, deeper waterings are better to prevent plants becoming dependent on constant waterings due to shallow roots. however some plants will always have shallow roots naturally, and need less water more often.(again factor in soil drainage rate) So, if you feel confident enough to find out what you have, what you need, and the smartest way to get there, then go for it. But if you take advice and try one thing at a time, maybe you will fix the problem on the first try, maybe you will spend money on 10 different suggestions and still kill your plants. I HIGHLY suggest finding an irrigation guy with recommendations, and if he sounds like he knows what he's doing, and you trust him to do it right, just have him fix it. saving a buck on a guy who doesn't speak english and kills plants isn't saving a buck. And make sure your landlord is reimbursing you for repairs before you waste your money on a rental. Additionally, Hunter makes a weather station based on your specific micro climate. it's about $600 retail and puts a value on every variable possible. you tell it the soil type, amount of wind, plant type and age, angle of slope of hills, amount of shade, etc. and it reads rainfall, temp, evaporation rates,and can calculate the amount of water on your plants vs. the amount needed. It knows that you got an inch of rain but 1/4 evaporated in the sunny spots and decide if more water is needed. It has wiltguard that knows if the temp is too hot for the plants, and will turn on the heads to water down the leaves and give them a break from the heat. You will never underwater a plant, and you will never over water, saving money on your water-bill.

Thanks Mike, I am asking mainly on a schedule because I will be leaving from may 18th - july 7th. Any other time I will probably cap the irrigation tubes and just use the hose since like you said I can just monitor better that way, or atleast until I feel the trees are healthy again. Another issue is that my drip lines are all hooked up to the same line which connect to bells of fire plans, palm trees, and the citrus trees. I just talked to the nursery where I got the plants from and they said while I'm gone it would be fine to water my tree every 3 days on a drip with about 20 gallons worth of water? After I get back I can go back to monitoring it. So if I mulch, could I drip 20 gallons every 3 days?

Utog, and peren, sorry to hear that your gardens are suffering. Utog, I always wondered how your plants grew so well under trees. peren, I agree with you, that apparently we stopped having normal a while back. ulisdone, I don’t know where you are getting your information, but no one here is looking at a monitor……..all we need to look at is the EXTREME climate changes the world is experiencing……..more frequent and much more intense hurricanes, tornadoes, cyclones…….much more extreme flooding repeatedly in areas so much so, there is no time to recover before the next storm and resulting flooding occurs…….many many more volcanic eruptions above ground and below the sea causing massive devastation from molton lava flowing on ground and by tsunamis from eruptions and quakes under the water……fires, fires,fires—— all over the world! Who even looks at a monitor! We can all see the entire West coast of the USA is on fire! And so is Austraila and many other parts of the world!, well, you are entitled to your opinions from the brain washing exaggerated news ”you” watch, but they really don’t belong here in the hosta forum. debra