In case the link is ever broken, cut and paste the PDF file here: Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University The Myth of Gypsum Magic âAdding gypsum to your yard or garden will improve soil tilth and plant healthâ The Myth Upon continued prodding from one of my university extension colleagues, I recently watched several episodes of a well-known gardening program on television. My kids joined me, alerted by my animated responses to the hostâs non-stop torrent of advice. Among many amazing discoveries I learned that by adding gypsum to my yard or garden I would improve my problem soils by changing the particle size and loosening compaction. Further searching on the web revealed that gypsum would also improve drainage, decrease acidity, and eliminate soil salts. Previously, I had heard of gypsum for use in soil reclamation projects, but not for a typical urban landscape. Since gypsum is simply calcium sulfate, could this chemical truly transform soil structure and serve as a fertilizer for yards and gardens? The Reality This myth falls into the category of agricultural practices misapplied to ornamental landscapes. Gypsum effectively changes the structure and fertility of heavy clay soils, especially those that are heavily weathered or subject to intensive crop production. Gypsum also improves sodic (saline) soils by removing sodium from the soil and replacing it with calcium. Therefore, one can see improvement in clay soil structure and fertility, and desalinization of sodium-rich soils, by using gypsum. What other effects will gypsum have on soil and plant health? There are a number of scientific studies on gypsum usage both in the literature and on websites. Briefly, researchers have found: ⢠Gypsum does not usually change soil acidity, though occasional reports of both increasing and decreasing pH exist; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of aluminum, which can detoxify soils but also contaminates nearby watersheds; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of iron and manganese, leading to deficiencies of these nutrients; ⢠Gypsum applied to acid soils can induce magnesium deficiency in plants on site; ⢠Gypsum applied to sandy soils can depress phosphorus, copper and zinc transport; ⢠Gypsum can have negative effects on mycorrhizal inoculation of roots, which may account for several reports of negative effects of gypsum on tree seedling establishment and survival; ⢠Gypsum is variable in its effects on mature trees; ⢠Gypsum will not improve fertility of acid or sandy soils; ⢠Gypsum will not improve water holding capacity of sandy soils; and ⢠Gypsumâs effects are short-lived (often a matter of months) With the exception of arid and coastal regions (where soil salts are high) and the southeastern United States (where heavy clay soils are common), gypsum amendment is just not necessary in non-agricultural areas. Urban soils are generally amalgamations of subsoils, native and non-native topsoils, and - in home landscapes - high levels of organic and non-organic chemical additives. They are also heavily compacted and layered (and gypsum does not work well on layered soils). In such landscapes, it is pointless to add yet more chemicals in the form of gypsum unless you need to increase soil calcium levels. This nutrient deficiency can be quickly identified by any soil testing laboratory for less than a bag of gypsum costs. (If you need to improve sulfur nutrition, itâs wiser to use ammonium sulfate). To reduce compaction and improve aeration in nearly any landscape, application of an organic mulch is more economically and environmentally sustainable. The Bottom Line ⢠Gypsum can improve heavy clay soil structure and remove sodium from saline soils ⢠Gypsum has no effect on soil fertility, structure, or pH of any other soil type ⢠Most urban soils are not improved by additional gypsum ⢠Before adding gypsum or any chemical to a landscape, have soil analysis performed to identify mineral deficiencies, toxicities, and soil character ⢠Adding gypsum to sandy or non-sodic soils is a waste of money, natural resources, and can have negative impacts on plant, soil, and ecosystem health For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scottâs web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com.

Looks like a common single red, which is actually a great plant, the most florific of the tropical hibiscus, along with Seminole Pink. We sold more single reds at the garden center than any others. People would come in and say "I want that plant with the huge red flowers". It's also one of the easiest to root, so you should be doing great. Ask your neighbor for seeds from his Rose of Sharon. They grow very easily, and quickly too, and even if they are self-pollinated, you never know what you're going to get. My mother had a white one outside her kitchen window, and it dropped seeds for years. Seedlings came up, and now she has a pink, purple, solid white, and white with a red eye, all seedlings of the same plant.

The only thing I can't think of why so little worked was that we do have a water softener so we're already starting out with soft water. I was also surprised that this Ariel made nearly no suds (I checked). I wonder if they changed the formula? There is very little information on it anywhere so it's hard to know. I'll keep the vinegar out of the machine - I never thought it did much other than maybe help residue wash away but now with the STPP it's not needed. I'm starting to wonder if this is how Mom did laundry back in the 80's without fabric softener? I don't remember her using much of it growing up and I also don't remember wearing cardboard. lol

So I assume you continued on to just fill in the new soil mix around the roots. Did you tamp the pot against whatever surface you were working on to settle the soil around the roots so as to avoid air pockets? If you're an experienced planter this probably goes without mentioning it. I've found that dieffenbachia is one of those pretty tough and forgiving plants. I've often rooted cuttings (even large ones) in a jar of water and once there are roots (they develop really big roots in water after a few weeks) I've planted them with no problems. Hopefully it's just transplant shock. If things don't work out, just cut if off somewhere on the stem and root it in water. Either way, you shouldn't wind up completely losing the plant. I seem to recall having your exact same experience at times with repotting some of these - as well as other plants.