I have a 25 yr old Kohler cast iron tub. I got used to the non-skids looking a very light gray, despite my efforts. So I just ordered on Amazon an extra large “Gorilla Grip” clear bath mat with multiple suction cups on the bottom to cover it up, haha (and actually having this mat made my 70 yr old self feel more secure). Currently, we are in the midst of a bathroom remodel and the remodeler suggested replacing the tub with another! Wha?! It’s a second floor bathroom and that tub was uber-heavy to carry up for the first remodel and I didn’t want to replace a “perfectly good” cast iron with acrylic or fiberglass. The tub was pristine other than being outdated, lol (though I swear I saw the same design at a local Kohler store when looking at other fixtures). He knew I was trying to save money so I figured his main concern were the non-slip strips, LMAO! So before the remodeling began, I tried Dawn Platinum PowerWash. Sprayed it on the non-skid area and walked away for a half hr? Came back and scrubbed just a bit with an off-brand magic eraser. 85-75% improvement. Once the remodeling is done, I’m going to try hydrogen peroxide like Jane Camero recommended back in 2017, and see if I can get it to 100%! Now, right before hitting “Post” I did a search and found out what Kohler recommends in this article https://www.everydaycheapskate.com/clean-bathtub-anti-slip-bottom/ “ROG3 is miraculous and will bring your tub back to its shiny new self including the slip-resistant etching, without damaging the porcelain or the anti-slip surface. You must get this product (actually it comes in a kit) from the manufacturer’s website. ROG3 is not available in stores or through Amazon. In the kit you will receive two bottles—ROG3 Blue Liquid and ROG1 White Cream plus a scrubbing pad and sprayer head, for about $55 plus shipping, which is quite a bargain as compared to having a tub refinished or replaced. Look for a discount and or free shipping option at the ROG3 site. Often the company will offer that at least for a first-time purchase.”

Can you take one or two clear digital photos and post it? With an oil based finish or sealer (and not stained), red oak is generally amber to orange-reddish in tone, whereas white oak is more tan to golden brown. With a water based finish, both species will be much lighter or whitish, but the basic color tones will still be there. Red oak generally has a thicker or wider earlywood cell layer (the rings you see), whereas the white oak earlywood layer is usually very narrow in width. This is most easily visible on the end of a board or with rift and quartered. When looking down on flatsawn flooring, both species rings can appear wide. White oak has rays (the cells that are perpendicular to the rings) that are longer (1-2 inches) and are very noticeable as wide ray fleck in 90 degree quartered material. Red oak rays are short (1/2" - 1" long), but can be easily seen due to the lighter colored wheat or amber red oak wood and the generally wider annual growth rings. This flooring company has some good pictures of both red and white oak with an oil based finsih: Here is a link that might be useful: Launstein oak pictures

Ugh. That's what I am afraid of and DH is so excited about it. I did see one pic when searching glass staircases that had an iron railing with a scrolled end at the beginning of the railing and glass panels. It was very pretty. Because the long railing section is so prominent in the living room, I think he's trying to make it more invisible and not block the windows. I understand that cause it is an eyesore. I actually was thinking about the acid etching. Perhaps with a minimal design. That could tie in to what I'm considering for the window over our sink cause the house next door is literally 12 feet away and I've always got the shade closed. I was thinking something like this that I found here on site.

To be safe go with the same in both areas, but for a specific answer.... It depends. There really is no single thing that is Red Oak or White Oak. There are at least ten different types of trees that produce White Oak and ten different trees that produce Red Oak. Many White Oaks are "redder" than Red Oaks. So in the end, you have to just look at the two woods side by side. In Red Oak the pores are open, while in White Oak the pores are plugged (this, rather than the color tendancies, is the absolute difference). White Oak is for boats because it is resistant to water damage, Red Oak isn't. With some effort they can be stained to look virtually identical and neither deepen as they age, so that color will remain consistent, however, they take stain very differently. Red Oak soaks up stain while White Oak leaves most of the stain on the surface of the wood. I prefer White Oak everywhere, I love White Oak for kitchens because of its resistance to damage, in the end though, I wouldn't make a decision based on the Oak species of my floor although I would try to be consistent... Good Luck