A copy/paste of something I wrote to compare Peat vs. Coir Sphagnum peat and coir have nearly identical water retention curves. They both retain about 90-95% of their volume in water at saturation and release it over approximately the same curve until they both lock water up so tightly it's unavailable for plant uptake at about 30-33% saturation. Coir actually has less loft than sphagnum peat, and therefore, less aeration. Because of this propensity, coir should be used in mixes at lower %s than peat. Because of the tendency to compact, in the greenhouse industry, coir is primarily used in containers in sub-irrigation (bottom-watering) situations. Many sources produce coir that is high in soluble salts, so this can also be an issue. Using coir as the primary component of container media virtually eliminates lime or dolomitic lime as a possible Ca source because of coir's high pH (6+). Gypsum should be used as a Ca source, which eliminates coir's low S content. All coir products are very high in K, very low in Ca, and have a potentially high Mn content, which can interfere with the uptake of Fe. I haven't tested coir thoroughly, but I have done some testing of CHCs (coconut husk chips) with some loose controls in place. After very thoroughly leaching and rinsing the chips, I made a 5:1:1 soil of pine bark:peat:perlite (which I know to be very productive) and a 5:1:1 mix of CHCs:peat:perlite. I planted 6 cuttings of snapdragon and 6 cuttings of Coleus (each from the same plant to help reduce genetic influences) in containers (same size/shape) of the different soils. I added dolomitic lime to the bark soil and gypsum to the CHC soil. After the cuttings struck, I eliminated all but the three strongest in each of the 4 containers. I watered each container with a weak solution of MG 12-4-8 with STEM added at each watering, and watered on an 'as needed basis', not on a schedule. The only difference in the fertilizer regimen was the fact that I included a small amount of MgSO4 (Epsom salts) to provide MG (the dolomitic lime in the bark soil contained the MG, while the gypsum (CaSO4) in the CHC soil did not. This difference was necessary because or the high pH of CHCs and coir.) for the CHC soil. The results were startling. In both cases, the cuttings grown in the CHC's exhibited only about 1/2 the biomass at summers end as the plants in the bark mix. I just find it very difficult for a solid case to be made (besides "It works for me") for the use of coir or CHC's. They're more expensive and more difficult to use effectively. The fact that some believe peat is in short supply (no where near true, btw) is easily offset by the effect of the carbon footprint of coir in its trek to the US from Sri Lanka or other exotic locales. That's the view from here. YMMV Al

I am successfully growing Dendrobium Kingianum keikis (plantlets) in a mix of coconut husk chips and fibres, fir bark and what I believe to be Bigelow's Porotrichum Moss. I did make preparation: I soaked the chips in hot water for a few hours than drained them and let them dry out completely in the sun and repeated this exercise one more time. My dendrobium plantlets seem to enjoy themselves in this mix of medium for I have witnessed unexpectedly rapid root growth as well as vegetative growth, more than that, new offshoots have also appeared. My plantlets do fair much better then I could have ever expected. I still need to devise the right proportions of the various components of the medium for my Cattleya hybrids though, for I fear the mix I potted my Dendrbiums in do not seem to be optimal for them. Perhaps they would prefer more husks and less bark or the other way round.

I wouldn't use any of the moisture control potting mixes for anything. I've only grown citrus in containers and used redwood in place of coconut husk chips. You want to stay away from sphagnum peat moss, at least in container grown trees, not sure about inground citrus. I've also added a neutral aquatic plant mix (almost like a gravel) to help with drainage. I've bought a couple of my trees from Four Winds and have been very happy with their plants and advice. I'm definitely a novice when it comes to citrus and there are many (most lol) on this site with a good deal more experience than me. Karyn The info below is for inground planting and was copied from the Four Wind website : Climate In general, ground-planted citrus trees are happiest in warm, temperate areas. Some varieties are much more frost-tolerant than others. For information on a specific variety, please refer to our hardiness table. Location A sunny, frost- and wind-free location with southern exposure is best. (If in doubt, leave the tree in its plastic container and place it in the spot you have in mind. Water as needed. After a week or two, you should be able to tell whether or not it's happy.) Reflected heat from sidewalks, walls, driveways, or other structures can also help to create a warmer "microclimate." Avoid lawns that get frequent, shallow waterings. Don't crowd your tree, for even though it is a dwarf, it will need room for its eight-foot ultimate size. Soil Citrus trees are famous for tolerating a wide variety of soils, including clay. However, good drainage is essential, as citrus trees can't survive standing water for long. To test your drainage, dig a hole 30" deep where you would like to place the tree. Fill with water to saturate the soil. The next day refill it with water. Your drainage is OK if the water level drops 2" in two hours. If the water does not drain, plant your tree in a raised bed or dig a deeper hole and then amend the soil as described in the following paragraph. Soils rich in humus are best. For heavy or poor soils, we recommend digging a large hole and filling it back in, half with the best of the original soil, and half with a good-quality amendment mix. Plant the root ball high to allow it room to settle over time. (The upper roots can be slightly visible.) Planting If the plant is growing in a container, gently invert the plant and container to remove the soil ball intact. Squeezing the sides of the plastic pot can help to loosen the soil and roots. After removing the plant, take note of the abundant fibrous root system. Straighten out any circling roots before planting. Cut off and remove any broken roots. Amend your planting hole as described above. Do not add fertilizer to the soil as you're backfilling your hole; however, you can apply some to the soil surface after planting. Be sure to tamp soil lightly as you go and water plant thoroughly after planting to eliminate air pockets. Finally, you should stake the tree until well-established, tying the trunk lightly to a stake while leaving room for the trunk to expand. Green plant tie is a good choice for tying trees to stakes. The best time of day to plant in summer is early morning. Try to keep the roots out of the sun as much as possible. Keep the roots moist, and water well once transplanted. In winter, time of day is not as critical. Temperatures above freezing would be advised for outdoor transplanting. You may wish to pinch off fruit and blossoms for the first year or two after a new planting, to encourage stronger root and branch development. Watering Consistency is the key with citrus watering! As with so many plants, citrus trees require soil that is moist but never soggy. How often to water will vary with soil porosity, tree size, and temperature. Allowing the top of the soil to dry slightly is OK. A simple moisture meter, available at garden supply stores, will read moisture at the root level. Take it from us -- this inexpensive tool will become your best friend! You'll never again have to guess about whether or not a plant needs water. A wilted tree that perks up within 24 hours after watering indicates the roots got too dry. Adjust watering schedule accordingly. A tree with yellow or cupped leaves, or leaves that don't look perky AFTER watering can indicate excessive watering and soggy roots. Water less frequently. Citrus prefer less frequent, deep waterings to frequent, shallow sprinklings. Creating a watering basin around the tree can aid in deep watering. As the tree grows, be sure to expand the basin as needed to keep it as wide as the spread of the branches. Deeper watering promotes deeper root growth and strengthens your tree. Generally, once-a-week watering works well for in-ground plantings. Be sure to adjust based on weather conditions! In general, it is probably best to water in the morning, but if plants are dry or wilted it is better to water them right away than wait until morning. See our watering page for more. Fertilizer Since citrus trees are heavy nitrogen feeders, make sure there is more nitrogen (N) than phosphorous (P) or potassium (K). Use at least a 2-1-1 ratio. Also important are trace minerals like iron, zinc, and manganese, so make sure those are included as well. Many all-purpose products will work. We prefer slow release fertilizers in the granular form rather than fertilizer stakes. Follow rates on the package carefully as fertilizers come in different strengths, release rates, and application schedules. Foliar applications of trace minerals in the form of kelp or other soluble fertilizers are effective on leaves when half their mature size. Yellowing leaves indicate lack of fertilizer or poor drainage. Mulches Liberal use of mulches will conserve precious water. Less water is needed as evaporation is reduced and weeds are inhibited. A 2-3 inch layer of redwood shavings, fir bark, compost, or other organic matter will help with water retention, while gravel or crushed rock will reflect heat and hasten fruit ripening. To avoid root diseases, do not allow grass to grow under the tree's canopy, and keep mulch at least six inches away from the tree trunk. Suckering Know where the graft union in on your tree. It can usually be seen as a diagonal scar between 4 and 8 inches from the soil. Remove all shoot growth below the graft. These so-called "suckers" take vitality from the top of the tree (the fruiting wood). Especially on young trees, they are very vigorous. Remove suckers as soon as they are observed. See photos. Thorns Thorns are removed from rootstocks when they are grafted. Juvenile fruiting wood will sometimes have thorns; this is a young plant's way of defending against grazing animals. As the tree matures, thorns will not appear as often. Prune off thorns if desired. Pruning Citrus may be pruned to any desired shape. Pruning is fine any time of year, except in the winter for outdoor trees. Pinching back tips of new growth is the best way to round out the trees without impacting future fruit. Citrus will look fuller with occasional pruning to shape leggy branches. Very leggy branches indicate the need for more light. Some trees may develop erratic juvenile growth above the graft. If so, prune for shape and balance. Any growth above the graft can eventually bear fruit. Pollination Citrus are self-pollinating, even indoors. Some people enjoy pollinating their trees and can do so by using a small soft brush or cotton swab to transfer pollen among the flowers. Espaliering Four Winds Dwarf Citrus can be trained to grow on trellises like vines or in more formal designs. Simply use green garden ties to hold branches in place. Beneficial Insects Not all insects are bad! Spiders, lady beetles, lacewings, and preying mantids (praying mantis) are some of the beneficial insects you may see around citrus trees outdoors. You can even buy some of these predator insects in local nurseries for release in your garden. Pest Insects Keep your tree free of ants. They will farm scales or aphids, moving them from place to place, milking their secretions, and protecting them from beneficial insects. Ant baits may be helpful. If you find harmful insects like scales, aphids, or mites, a household spray bottle of water with some mild dish soap could be all you need. If insects persist, the usual nursery treatment is a 1% solution of light horticultural oil. Learn more. Frost Even temperate locations can drop below freezing, so it's good to have a plan in mind for that eventuality. Christmas lights strung around your tree will provide some protection, as will an antitranspirant like Cloud Cover. A frost blanket, loosely draped over and around the tree, will also help. 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Actually there is a difference between fiber and perhaps what you guys call coir and I call husk. When one is talking about fiber, it's the fiber only, and not the complete husk (treated, shoped, as some kind of dust or however it comes). Pure respectively extracted fiber does not have any or little material that can decompose over time and when exposed to water. I am lucky and can pick up coco husk at some local market for free. It needs to to be soaked and rinsed several times, right. One can verify the content of remaining salt by checking the vaste water with a EC-meter, to ensure the salt content is eliminated. I often rinse the ready mix a last time when already in the buckets and set in the hydro. Just run it with water for a day or two. Though, this material decomposes over time and may raise the PH of the nutrient considerably, the more the decomposition progresses. In other words it doesn't really decompose for a month or 6 weeks, but after that its starts to do so. If you plan to grow "long term" plants, better consider this fact. And do not recycle or reuse it when it has started to decompose. Instead mix it with compost or with soil (for garden or pots) Don't forget that it's kinda soaked with nutrients if not rinsed - which may be a plus. Some parts of the husk have more fibres and withstand decomposition better. It happens to me to only shop off this (kinda pointed and visibly more fiberous) parts only. The lower, thinner and more fibrous parts can also be cut with a strong pair of scissors, in case you want to have smaller bits (for planting seedlings for instance). I use to grow tomatoes in a system that is basically drip and recycle based. I use medium sized buckets which I fill with a special mix of about: 70% rice hulls, 20% of my shopped coco husk, and 10% of rough (sieved) sand. Extra and more rough coco is placed at the bottom of the buckets (pots) to prevent rice hulls and sand to drop out. I am using less coco now, because by doing so, I can recycle the mix at least one time, without having to consider the decomposition, which may influence (or even spoil) my nutrients. I also use less, since I have noticed that it is more prone to accumulation of salts, and more difficult to rinse than other media. The use of this kind of coco husk also depends on what philosophy and mindset you run your hydoponic culture. Some people tend to work kinda sterile, others are not that meticulous or "clean". Imagine that you run a aquaponic system - in such case you would not mind using coconut husk and its slow decomposition doesn't matter at all. To know about other aspects of coconut husk and fiber, also read this topic @ gardenweb (treats partially about use of coco husk) and it's possible advantages and disadvantages: -> Here is a link that might be useful: Click Here