I'd dispute the contention that neem oil/extracts are more toxic than fatty acid-based insecticidal soaps. ANY substance, organic or not, can be toxic if applied in great enough concentrations. Neem has been used as an herbal remedy and dietary supplement by populations in its natural locale for centuries with documented beneficial effects. The big advantage to neem oil over other organic controls is its adaptability for numerous purposes, as both an insecticide and fungicide and as an effective control of other disease pathogens. There is a very scholarly article on the pros and cons of neem oil/extracts available online, however it requires membership to the site or payment to download and view. A google search with the key words "neem oil, harmful side effects" should turn it up. Otherwise the attached is a good, well-rounded treatise on this organic control. Here is a link that might be useful: Neem oil

Typically, if the oil filter is optional, they'll show an optional sump and/or OF cover plate. The IPL for your engine shows an OF as "standard"? I'd say get the nipple and install a filter. After a few minutes running, the filter should get hot if the oil is circulating. "Briggs/Kohler type" 3/4" X 16 threads 8-11 PSI Bypass Gasket 2.734"OD X2 .430"ID 0.226" thick Length" Wix Purolator Hastings Kohler B&S Baldwin MotorCraft AC 2.3" 57035 NA LF503 2805001 492932 B7165 NA NA? 2.7" 51056 L35310 LF302 1205001 492056 B1410 NA PF2210 3.4" 51348 L10241 LF157 5205002 491056 BT223 FL793 PF53 4.8" 51516 L20195 LF134 NA NA B243 FL400A PFL400A It shows the 2.3" long filter. IF you have room, you can use one of the longer ones. Might be cheaper too.

The flash point of vegetable cooking oil is around 600F. That is the temperature at which oil will start to vaporize, and the vapor can be ignited by a flame. A natural gas flame is about 3,000F. So, leave a pan of vegetable oil on a high burner flame long enough, and the pan bottom will get to 600F, ignitable vapors will come off the oil, and if those vapors get exposed to burner flame, you have ignition. I guess the water on the broccoli spattered, throwing a bit of oil beyond the pan, and that oil was at the flash point. The good thing is, at the flash point the oil itself isn't burning, just the vapors, so it isn't a long lived fire - get the pan away from the burner, turn off the burner, or contain the vapors with the lid. (You understand, I haven't started lots of fires in my kitchen just to test this - that's just based on the couple of oil flareups I've had plus info on flash point of different oils.)

"Hi all.I am a ''newbie''. I really could use some advice. I rebatched a 1 & a half pound of goatmilk soap. I may have added too much liquid. I tried to scent & color it. That was 3-days ago. Here is what's happening to it. It is still soft, in the mold & I can see little particles of the color chip. It has no scent. I just read, that it's possible to put 2- soap bases together(combine them). Do you think, I might wind up doing that? I have a plain unscented, no color base that I could use. Or should I try to melt little chunks of it in a new base? What should I do? I don't want to - throw it out. I would greatly appreciate any advice on this situation." Hi, I am probably too late, but here's a little help. How did you get the liquid into the recipe? Liquid goat's milk? Goat milk powder added to water? Some other way? You could grind up some other recipe and rebatch it, or you could just rebatch it depending on how much extra water has been added with the first recipe. I use Goat's milk powder and stick blend it right into the oils, even before you add the lye solution into your oils/fats. That's right the gm powder right into the olive oil or tallow. I do melt the fats and warm up the oils in the microwave, so they're liquifyed. The stick blender does a very nice job and you'll wont have lumps of gm powder in your soap. Good luck!