Professional range hood??
sbc62vols
9 years ago
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Pro wall-mounted range hoods with controls in front?
Comments (2)Gee, that's a new issue to worry about. My hood, DCS Eurohood, has the controls underneath but on the right edge - I've never noticed them getting greasy or sticky. On the other hand, the outside front of my hood does get a little greasy because the hood isn't deep enough to cover the front burners completely. I think in my case I'd have more of an issue if the controls were outside on the front....See MoreFirst Draft Kitchen Plan
Comments (57)The island only works if you only want to sit on one side of the table. There is no room for people to sit at the table and still have walking around room. Here are the recommended minimum clearances: Note that the people in the drawing are seated close up to the table. I don't know about you but I know I'm only pulled up close if I'm actually eating a meal. if I'm having a snack, sitting there reading the paper with a cuppa joe, or just to visit with someone, I'm often sitting with my chair at an angle and such. So, really, I would add at least 12" to those minimums for comfortable clearances. If that corridor wasn't going to be a high-traffic area, you could get by with less clearance. But that is a main corridor. You need to keep the clearances as wide as possible or I think you'll regret all the congestion issues this will cause. Efficient kitchens that are functional and easy to work in don't purposely have extra steps planned into them increasing the walking around needed to prepare a meal just to get a certain look. Islands don't work in every kitchen. Don't try to force it. How about extending your kitchen all the way to the end of the wall? You could put your prep sink there and still have good space between prep sink and cooktop. 36" is the minimum recommended for counter between sink and cooktop so, to be honest, I don't think your kitchen is big enough for a separate oven/cooktop arrangement. And 36" cooktops are usually in larger kitchens. I just question whether you have the space for that? Are you avid chefs? Do you really need that big of a cooktop? Personally, I've cooked numerous big meals for large family gatherings, even catered a couple of small weddings, with a 30" range. No extra oven. Sure, an extra oven would have been handy but not a deal-breaker. If you did a 30" range, you could gain the 30" or so counter space your losing for the wall oven. Then you could move the range down 30" or so closer to the window and have a good 60" or so of space between prep sink and range. This would give you a very functional layout. Of course, if you want the second oven, you could just install it under the counter so you keep that counter space. I think you'll gain more from the extra counter space than you might realize. I would consider extending the other side farther as well. Maybe 20-30". You could still access the pantry and it would give more elbow room for clean-up duties. Just my 2 bits. I'm not an expert....See MoreProfessional range hood???
Comments (6)You might want to look in the Appliance forum. There are a lot of threads there about range hoods and make-up air. Modern-Aire and Vent-A-Hood are 2 brands that come up often. My wife and I looked at hoods last weekend. In the area where we live, Modern-Aire is only available through approved KDs and architects, so we weren't able to look at that. The first thing you should decide on is whether you want mesh filters, the VAH Magic lung or baffles. If you going to have a grill on your range, then you'll probably want to stay away from mesh. The VAH Magic lung uses squirrel-cage type blowers that use centrifugal force to remove all of the grease from the air and blow it into an enclosure. The enclosure is removed once a month or so and cleaned in the dishwasher. About once a year, the squirrel cages should be removed and cleaned as well (by hand, I think). VAH also claims that their 600 CFM fan is the equivalent to 900 CFM in other brands (because you're not pulling air through filters), but some people dispute that. As neither my wife nor I are very mechanically inclined, we found the process of removing the enclosure a bit clunky, and the prospect of cleaning the squirrel cages to be particularly daunting, so we passed on the VAH. That leaves baffle filters. The baffles have handles on them, and they simply snap out and go in the dishwasher. I've seen complaints in some forums about grease getting behind the baffles and needing to clean the inside of the hood under the baffles. The higher the air flow from the fan, the more grease that is trapped by the baffles, but it's likely that some amount of grease will always get through. Also a higher speed fan operating at a lower speed is quieter than a lower speed fan operating at capacity. So if you plan to do a lot of grilling or wok cooking, you might want to oversize the fan. You can get fans mounted inside the hood, in-line or roof-mounted. The farther away the fan is, the quieter the hood will be (although there will still be the noise of the air rushing over the baffles). With a remote fan you'll also need to oversize a bit to get the Required CFM down at the hood. Our salesman recommended the Best brand in a baffle hood, as they manufacture the hoods sold by Wolf and many others. It seems to have a reputation as a solid mid-range hood here on GW. The Best hoods have a bit of mesh between the baffles as well. I don't know if this is good or bad. We would have chosen the Best hood, but my wife and I couldn't agree on the hood style (she wanted a chimney style and I wanted a slanted pro-style). The only style we could agree on was a hood insert inside a cabinet enclosure. As it turns out, the cabinet company we're using, uses Modern-Aire for their hood inserts, so that's what we'll be getting. Now my wife and I just need to agree on the type of wood for the cabinets! Finally as others have mentioned, you should look into the issue of make-up air. If you're building a tight new house with little leakage, then it probably makes sense to install it now. Also check with your town to see if it's required (many jurisdictions don't require it in residential installations). My understanding is that a simple make-up air system isn't that expensive. Putting in a heated system (if you live in a cold climate) can be very expensive though. Some people, especially those with large hot commercial-style ranges (like Bluestar), simply run the make-up air duct under the range so the air coming in goes right back out the hood. Others (like me) simply rely on the open window approach and get a bit cold in the winter. The important thing to remember is that if you have a tight house and large CFM hood, then the air is going to come into your house from somewhere. If you don't allow for make-up air in some fashion, that air will come in from an undesirable location, like your chimney or furnace exhaust, and likely bring carbon monoxide into the house as well....See MoreVent Hood: What size/cfm for induction cooktop?
Comments (4)In the interest of brevity, (for prolixity search this forum on keywords such as plume, effluent, MUA, hood, etc.), here are a few maxims: The air velocity at the baffles has to be high enough to keep the rising and expanding cooking plume from reflecting down and out of the hood. This value is proportional to the velocity of the rising plume, which is proportional to the temperature of the cooking surface (for large surfaces), and of the flame combustion product (for small surfaces, large flames, and obviously gas cooktops). I recommend 90 ft/min for general all-purpose success, but with modest induction cooking, you might get away with only 60 or 70 ft/min. Feet per minute is equivalent to CFM per square foot of hood entrance aperture. The hood entrance aperture should overlap the pan surfaces by enough to encompass at least a 10-degree half angle from the contour of possible surfaces bounds (except where constrained by a wall). Obviously, as the hood height is increased, the size has to increase to meet this angle. From the above two results, the required total flow rate (CFM) is calculated. Duct diameter should be such that the velocity of the air inside is in the 1000 to 2000 ft/min range to minimize grease deposition. The higher end of this range may be best in warm climates. Blowers are usually rated for flow rate at zero static pressure, i.e., hanging in the air. In a ventilation system there is restriction that causes pressure drops (called loss). As pressure loss increases, flow rate decreases according to the fan curve of the blower. The CFM rating should be some multiple of the CFM required. The exact multiple depends on many things, including the fan curve, different for each blower, and MUA restriction. I recommend using a factor of 1.5 to be safe with open windows for MUA. (Note that screens will have a pressure loss depending on the open window space.) I will skip MUA maxims in this message, as open windows in southern CA should be adequate. Please search on MUA to find out about hazards of low interior house pressure with combustion appliances. kas...See Moreteachmkt1
9 years ago
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