From the contractor's perspective, he's done most of the work already, which is finding the materials, installer, choosing the style, and working out all the design details. If he's an honest contractor, his price includes occasionally absorbing the price of redoing the whole thing if an error, such as miscommunication, or even a mistake on his part, causes things to go wrong. If youÂve read this forum, and the kitchen forum, youÂll find that even very competent contractors run into the unforeseen. The time to do your comparison-shopping is before you have made your purchase, in this case your contract with your contractor, not after he has figured out all the details. ThereÂs an other issue here. The installation of the countertops has to be very carefully coordinated with all the other aspects of the job. If he doesnÂt have a working relationship with the counter top installer, it could mess up the whole job for the contractor. Before you decide to get someone else in there, read about all the things that go wrong with countertop installations. Now, if heÂs not been on top of the job thatÂs another issue. I would recommend letting the $1,000. on the countertop go. I would focus on improving communication with the contractor. Make your expectations clear, and then ask him if he agrees with you that those are his responsibilities. In case you are wondering what my perspective on this issue is, here it is. I am at the end of a remodeling project that started in 2005. I am also a decorative painter and have had jobs where the design was more work than the execution.

if all that is left to do is tiling floor, plumbing the sink and tiling the bs then you dont need a gc anyway. i would just hire a professional tile guy to do the floor and bs (or diy the bs ) and find your own plumber. we did a kitchen reno within the same footprint and did not use a gc. my kd was the owner of the kitchen place so her team (husband and 2 guys) did the new cab install. they do not do plumbing and have a plumber they work with. the guy was awesome and it was good to know it was done right. i am planning to diy my bs. it will be easier to find a tiler and a plumber than a gc, i would think. good luck:) oh and trebruchet i live in ny and it was 48 degrees today. i would kill to jump off the sunshine skyway bridge(that is the one crossing over from Tampa to the clearwater direction, right) i bet it is nice and sunny!

@Tundra: I'm converting a tub/shower into an enclosed steam shower. The contractor assured they do a lot of bathroom remodels - including steam showers - as part of their business. The bathtub has been removed and the contractor has created the shower pan and has done the hotmop to assure the tar keeps any water in. I can't speak to the waterproofing that's being done. It's not a question I've asked. I've not asked about the sloping either. It will have a frame-less glass enclosure, and most likely with a transom. I purchased a Mr. Steam MS225EC1 steam generator, with iSteam controller, aromatherapy, speakers, bluetooth, autoflush and drain pan. The shower floor will have travertine pebbles, the walls/ceiling in porcelain, and accent trim that includes travertine with glass. You've provided some great questions for me to ask.

Pulling my hair out trying to work out the lighting plan. The electrician is somewhat coy about pricing. Like every other Change Order for my new construction project, I feel like additions cost more than they should, and credits from deletions always end up less than I expect. What is the ballpark figure (or range) for adding / deleting a lighting point in the house (all else being equal -- I know it has to do with how long the electrical wiring has to be)... Thanks for any advice!