How to deal with high contractor bids based on your location?
andyscott
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
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Comments (25)
caligirl5
9 years agonosoccermom
9 years agoRelated Discussions
How much was your "painting" bid?
Comments (36)Caben, You would be correct if we were talking about any place near silicon valley. The home prices support that kind of fleecing. :) But the price per square foot where we are building is about 300 per square foot vs. the 5-600+ per square foot you see an hour north. This area is quite humble (I like that), and prices are less for everything from eggs to antiques to service for you car. That's why I'm surprised. People were building houses in my location with painting bids a fraction of my current estimate, not 10 months ago - so I don't think it's the greenbuild requirements (no voc) or licensing requirements or the recycling charge. Those have been there for a while. And I've had interior whole house bids for under 10k in other parts of CA. Hmmmm. I'm happy to be giving the contractor honest pay for honest work, but I also don't want to be funding his 4 month vacation in Bermuda. The cost of living is much less south of SV, and north of Santa Barbara- California has some hidden gems! Maybe it's my hayloft? ;) I may be looking at alot of DIY... and that's okay. It's just another excuse to be at the build site.... I'm going to be such a pest as things go up. It's just so interesting to me! If I were building in Atherton, I wouldn't be sweating things like painting bids, I'm sure....See MoreContractor bid etiquette
Comments (18)Quote"Are you saying that the rough-in plumbing takes a day, underslab piping takes a day, and trim out takes a day? My bids for plumbing are in the $15,000-$20,000 range. That's a pretty hefty daily rate! " The main water line & house sewer line from the street to the structure plus the interior DWV & water distribution piping under slab are the "rough-in", and yes, the guys are alloted one day to finish that. After the house is dried in and interior walls framed they will return and do the "Stack-out" phase, which is the water lines & DWV lines which will be inside the walls, and here again, the crew is alloted one day to complete that. And when there is to be ABS or Fiberglass tub or showere enclosures they are also installed during the stackout. After the bathroom floors & walls are finished and the kitchen cabinets are in we return a third time to do the "Trim out", which is where we set the sinks, waterclosets and all final valves or trim, and this too is to be done in one day, And those schedules are the same whether its a remodel job or a whole house. So what you see is three days work, but don't think for one monent that all you get for your $20k is 3days. As soon as I get your prints & site plan I have to go to the municipal water & sewer providers to find out exactly where they will be installing the water & sewer taps, then I have to work out the entire water distribution and DWV layout for your job. That generally takes the better part of a day, then I have to go back over the prints and do a complete material workup, right down to the last pipe hanger, roll of solder and gas for the soldering torches, flux, pipe cleaner, glue etc. After I have the material list I have to contact my suppliers to get a confirmed price, so there is another day. I then have to order the material and as it is delivered to the shop we have to package and stage it for your job, so I have the overhead cost of that storage area plus the labor to handle it in the staging area. Now let us consider the cost of the crew. In addition to their wages, there is $600yr per man for drug tests, $4k per man for tuition for the apprenticeship training course at the local college, $90 per copy for the code books and every employee must have one, then there is workmans comp insurance, vacation time & paid holidays and individual safety equipment such as OSHA approved respirators (one for each man), hard hats, hearing protectors, gloves etc. Then we have 1ton 4x4 crew cab pickups with jobbers boxes for $65k each, a one ton dump with heavy equip. trailer $70K + $6K, a backhoe $95k, bobcat $90K mini-trackhoe $75k, ditch-witch trencher $120k and specialty tools such as the Rigid cordless PEX crimper for a mere $1600, oxy-acetylene tote weld torch $350, for brazing copper under slab, Then we have a small truck load of hand tools or cordless and cord type power tools that are supplied by the company plus a large portable generator and lights incase we have to work late into the night or we happen to be on a site where they don't have temporary power setup yet. Add to that the cost of the office & shop, secretary, bean counter, warehouseman, equipment maintenance and fuel, not to mention another $5k a year in licensing fees. Now don't get me wrong, I am not crying in the least, but if the final analysis out of your $20k if I get $300 for my pocket its a good day....See Morequestion about getting a bid from contractors
Comments (53)To me, asking "what's your budget" is like a car dealer asking "what do you want your monthly payment to be?" I don't have a fixed dollar amount that I can spend on anything, or a hard cash limit in most cases. Every purchase is an individualized value calculation, and I don't happen to know what everything in the universe costs. If I'm looking for a contractor to build me a new kitchen, I have in mind the level of function and finishes that I want. I have no idea what that will cost. So if I say "$5000" then I'll end up with Habitat Restore cast-offs and sheet vinyl floors. No good. But if I say "$100K" then I'll end up with exotic counters and stuff I really don't value. No good either. So starting with a budget doesn't work for me. What does work is "here's the look I'm after. I want wood cabinets, granite counters, drawers in all the bases, and heated tile floors." They say "that will run between $40-50K." Then I say "hmm, that sounds reasonable" or "Hmm, that seems like more than I want to spend, can you break that down between the components so I can see the cost drivers and decide what's worth keeping and what I want to cut out?" And yes, for me it comes down to things like "it's an extra $1500 to put double stacked crown molding on the cabinets? Nah, never mind on that." But I might bump my budget up by $1500 for heated floors. Do most people really know what they want to spend on a bathroom or kitchen or room addition? I have to shop first, and have a collaborative process to figure out what budget I'm most comfortable with....See MoreHow to deal with landscape firms/contractors?
Comments (4)@kharvel: If you choose Route #1/#2, I think it is imperative that you select landscape architects and/or design firms whose work you are familiar with. Not only should you be familiar with their work, but also be impressed by it. Shot-gunning requests to a handful of architects from an internet search may take more of your time on the back end, wading through a lot of nonsense. I know landscape architects and designers whom I have immense respect for and some who I would not let design a small bed around my mailbox. Pick a couple of landscape architects or experienced designers and interview them. You will get a feel for them and vice versa. Normally, you would share with them what your anticipated budget for the project is, what you hope to accomplish and a timeline for design services. Once you agree on fees, you should plan on seeing a conceptual plan for discussion and then a final plan with revisions (if any). All design firms work it a bit differently, but they can give you a design budget with hourly fees. The scope of work will drive the cost of the design. A design including water features, masonry walls, pergolas and significant grade change is going to take more time than a planting plan for a small boulevard. Once you have a final design, then you can bid it out to a couple of landscape contractors, whose work you should also be familiar with. The landscape architect or designer might also do the work, but since you have paid for the design you own it and can choose to get an RFP from whomever. Or perhaps they can refer you to a contractor they feel would be a good match for you. But like choosing the l.a. or designer, it is important that the contractor have a firm grasp on how to implement the plan. And you should also be comfortable with each other. That being said, Route #1/#2 is probably the more time consuming avenue, but by separating design and contracting you avoid a mess, trying to sort out who is giving you what. It allows you to focus on design and them move on to focusing on the implementation of the plan. This will probably be the route with the fewest headaches and the route I would recommend. _____ ______ ______ However, if you choose to send out an RFP for design and installation to multiple design/build firms to do both functions it will be a dizzying amount of information to sort through and assess. You will also be reviewing a difference in design philosophy on paper from different perspectives. The municipality will be reviewing concepts that might be complex in scope and difficult to assess as non-professionals. You avoid that scenario when you hire someone simply for the purpose of design because you are discussing it during the process and they are informed on the front end so they can solve for your needs, wants and circumstances. _____ ________ _______ Regardless of which method you select, I might leave you with a few tidbits for thought: 1. The least expensive contractor is rarely the one you want working at your home or in your municipality. Awarding the project to "low bidder" is almost always a recipe for disappointment, especially when implementing a sophisticated plan. They are the contractor who is 'slamming it in at breakneck speed' to get paid. You may think you had bad design because you received sloppy installation. If the project is driven by budget and not excellence you will not attract the best designers/landscape architects, unless you get a young, hungry one. All projects have budgets, but it's better to achieve excellence over time than be underwhelmed by staying within a budget that's not realistic. Front-end discussion of budget is part of the process. 3. Hire the most qualified people you can afford. Being cheap and being great are almost always mutually exclusive. 4. See #3 above. I hope the above helps you along with your thought process. Best of luck to you on your project!!...See Morebeachem
9 years agoNothing Left to Say
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9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoAltare Design, LLC
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9 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
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9 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
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