Wood Beadboard on the walls outside the shower?
prairiemoon2 z6b MA
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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lam702
7 years agoVith
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Beadboard or tile walls for powder bath?
Comments (4)I'm going thru the same thing. I am removing old tile to put up beadboard. Its very DIY but you have to be able to rip wood, cut 45% angles, etc. So not too bad but does need some work. I would watch MDF in a bathroom. You have to paint it with oil base paint. MDF is not meant to be near water-it just swells up and distorts if it gets soaked by water. I would use wood rather than MDF. I'm using vinyl for mine. More expensive than wood or MDF but still a lot less I think than buying tile and having it installed....See Morewhat floor goes with beadboard?
Comments (14)We're doing something similar to what na praha did, except ours are a white and gray faux marble-ish tile from Home Depot - 12 x 12 ceramic with light gray grout. The tile is in, and the beadboard will go in monday. The shower is glossy white subways with light gray grout. We're using an espresso-colored vanity and mirror, which will also be installed monday. I'll post a picture as soon as it's in! I think if you don't like all those grout lines, you might consider a larger marble or white tile....See MoreHas anyone restored old beadboard walls? HELP
Comments (13)Well, you can feast your eyes on my attic; I'm thinking you might be facing something similar. I stared at these boards, which were/are painted dirty white, for nearly 20 years before I figured out what to do. Or rather, how to decide what to do. I have two rooms upstairs. One is done in narrow boards with tons of end-to-end joints hanging in the middle of nowhere, and it's bumpy and uneven and ugly as sin. There was nothing for it but to cover it up, which I've done with panelling on one wall, and in another part of the room with wallpaper. I've also started panelling the ceiling with 1/8" maple plywood but don't have a photo of that yet. My husband is not a fan of the wallpapered part, but it works for me. I plastered (oh yes I did) all the cracks, smoothed the wall as much as I could, and papered over it. Half the room so far. For the rest, I've discovered an underpaper that may spare me the plastering. First two photos here of the original look and the panelling. Pardon the mess; after 20 years there are no empty rooms, and the house is so messy I have trouble getting presentable photos! The other room, shown in the third photo, had wider boards, not so many joints, and was installed better, flatter. That, I decided I could paint. It is shown here partly done (and with only one coat on one wall); again, pardon the stuff. Yes, this is how I work my way around the room. I am nearly done the room now, and really liking it painted, much better than I expected. I REALLY hated it when it was white with the dark floor. Am also doing a hallway, in a creamsicle orange colour, and that is looking pretty good too. So one question is, is the installation of your boards nice enough to paint? I have to admit I don't recommend the papering (sounds like that's been tried!). I used a satin finish paint; the old paint was flat, and yuck. If the boards are just bad, then consider removal or covering with panelling. Or with gyproc. An unexpected pain in these rooms is the corners. How do the walls meet? Mine have huge uneven gaps and need corner moulding. It used to have a quarter round, which I hated and have replaced with a square 1x1. I also had holes that were cut in - to get into to the attic shoulder walls - and have had to devise covers for these. Another question you might want to consider is fire safety. It should be noted that gyproc will give you a bit more time than wood, I think. Ours is a small simple house and egress is comparatively straightforward. If yours is more complicated, and if grandkids are involved, you might want a better fire-rated wall material, and that would argue for removal and gyproc. I am not a fan of multiple layers on walls - had trouble even doing the 1/8 inch ply. Maybe we just have so little space I hate to lose even an inch, plus there is spacing out the moulding, and it's messy to get through. So if you are going to do drywall, I would tend toward removal of the beadboard. You could preserve it and use it instead as wainscot, perhaps. Or as fencing. Or as moulding. Or give it away. But wow, unpainted old beadboard? I bet it's nice wood if you refinish it, but I'm not sure I'd feel obligated to keep it on the walls as it is, holes and all. Wood can actually be used around a tub; it's more resilient with water than you'd think. Karin L...See MoreBeadboard or Picture Frame Wainscoting:What's best in a bathroom?
Comments (20)My $.02: I don't think picture-frame wainscoting is stylistically appropriate or practical for a bathroom. Also, painted MDF could seem cheap, especially in a home with solid wood wainscoting in other rooms, and I'm not sure how it would hold up it in a room/climate that is subject to mold. While I like true beadboard in vintage baths, it's often used just because it's trendy, fast, and cheap (if you use any of the various imitation beadboard products). Beadboard would look good with your Memoirs toilet and pedestal sink, but may seem too cottage-y for the rest of your house. My first preference would be for tile wainscoting, which need not be expensive in a small space if you shop around and do the tiling yourself. Are you really sure you can't use it? Unless the seasonal movement is really extreme (in which case you must have problems with all of your walls and wainscoting), you should be able to use tile as long as you have the proper surface, use small tiles, and flexible grout. (I'm no expert, but that's what I've been told.) Another option would be to simply install a chair rail around the perimeter of the room. You could then use different colors for the upper and lower walls, or paint the lower wall and use wallpaper or stenciling on the upper part (although extreme house movement could sabotage wallpaper)....See Moreprairiemoon2 z6b MA
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