The potential problems with removal of runner are dependent upon how the runner was installed. Some dearies actually tack the runner to the steps, tread and riser. Ouch, because removal leaves those holes to be filled and stained to match (very difficult to conceal). An alternative method is to use carpet bars which come in wood or metal, in an assortment of finishes. This is slightly more expensive but imo, also *looks* more luxurious. The carpet is barred at the back of the tread where it meets the riser; best practice has the runner tacked beneath each tread rather than slanted from top-front to the back of the next lower riser. Note that under-tread tacking also uses the most running feet of carpet, so the most finished appearance is going to cost. There are several other methods, so discuss intent with the installer before s/he does the work. One thing for sure, is to not use any sort of sticky-back tape: it either doesn't hold well, or holds too well and removel is labor-intensive. Because of the carpet pile height, if possible choose treads that are slightly deeper than usual so as to maintain fully safe depth.

Interesting, thanks for sharing. We are getting the 5" wide planks, hand scraped engineered maple for our flooring -- looks very similar to the wood in the pics. These appear to be 5" planks in the picture you posted as well. We are thinking of doing the risers in white though. Your picture is helpful because I can also see the nosing. The nosing appears to be a solid piece of wood, which I think it is how it is done. The texture of the nosing appears a bit different but still might be ok.

The flooring store we purchased the products from recommended this: Apply sealer Sand (using 120 grit, no more than 150 grit sand paper) Apply 1st coat Duraseal Matte Oil based finish (available at San Jose location) Roll this on using a smooth roller Sand (again 120 or max 150 grit) Apply 2nd coat Duraseal Matte Oil based finish (roll on using smooth roller) Sand (again 120 or max 150 grit) (Optional) - 3rd coat of Duraseal & sanding Apply 1st Spray coat of Minwax Satin Lightly sand (again 120 or max 150 grit) Apply very light 2nd Spray coat of Minwax Satin ... however I don't know where to start if this doesn't turn out right, and I am not sure if the Minwax is a durable enough. Also, we applied the Minwax satin to the wood directly and it came out too dark. So.... I was looking for alternative products to try on my other scraps.

Thanks so much for replying! Are you matching the wood to another wood floor at this time? We have white oak solid hardwood floors across the entire downstairs in a medium brown stain. They are all "shorts" and were here when we moved in 20 yrs ago. But I don't want to match the stain. I like it when the stairs and railings are a little darker than the main floor. Sorry this is so long. There are a number of issues we're tryng to understand so that we can move forward the best possible way... ********** We decided a couple months ago that we wanted to do this, but there are some issues that I'm not exactly sure how to handle, which is why we haven't started yet. CHOICE OF MATERIAL: The carpenter that has done a couple of projects for us already (bath cabinets, TV cabinet, some smaller jobs), has experience in this, and I saw one of his client's staircases recently. He said he'd use 1" solid wood for treads. But I've also heard from other people that engineered hardwood is better because it's more structurally stable. CODE: I pulled the carpet back on all the edges and measured as carefully as I could and it looks like every one of my steps is exactly the same height, and depth, except for the ones that curve at the bottom of the staircase (they are a little deeper on the "fat" part as they curve down). All the straight ones are the same depth. When I walked up the stairs at the carpenter's client's house, they felt too tall to me. They felt consistent though. I presume if mine are currently all the same height, they will remain consistent as long as all the treads are the same thickness. I downloaded and read all about the codes which was very informative, but I'm not 100% confident he is intimately familiar with the code rules, so we're not yet sure we will hire him. TRANSITIONS FROM LANDING TO CARPETED BEDROOMS AND TILES BATHROOM: At his client's house, the landing at the top was carpeted. We want our landing to be wood, and then switch to carpet just for the bedrooms and gameroom. He's an excellent carpenter, but he's not a wood floor specialist. When I started asking questions about how the wood landing would be installed his answers didn't quite comport with what I know (admittedly, not a lot) about wood floors. Specifically I want the transitions from the landing to the bedrooms and bathroom to be flat/flush with no transition piece if possible. I want z-bars (or other solution that is not a transition piece) for the carpet. (carpet replacement will happen after the stairs). He explained to me that he would use 1" treads on the stairs, so the woodfloor on the landing would have to be 1" also (because the top nosing would be 1" and that has to be flush with landing floor). I asked if that means the height of the wood floor would be too tall (I guess 1/4" too tall) to make a flat transition to the bathroom (tiled floor), and bedrooms (carpet) so that no transition piece would be needed. He kind of himmed and hawed on the answer. It's the transitions that I'm worried about. I'm wondering if going with enginnered would solve this issue (would engineered be thinner, thus allowing for a flat transition?) DISRUPTIVE PROCESS IF ON-SITE STAINING: We have 4 kids, and we were wondering how in the world we would live through the many days of staining and poly if we use solid wood, because I'm assuming they would need to be finished on site (maybe I'm wrong about that?). Making the kids live downstairs for a week would be very disruptive to them with school, sports, etc. I don't really want to do wait this long, but if we don't do this until next summer ALL the kids will be gone: 1 will be on a study-abroad, 2 of them are full-time summer camp counselors, and 1 will be gone 2 weeks as a camper, so I'd have a window of time when no one has to go up the stairs. I'm suspecting the designer is going with factory finished wood (engineered or solid...it doesn't matter) because it is a faster install with LESS work to stain/treat the treads once installed. We've been scratching our heads on how to complete this project, so I decided to consult with a local designer that I found on the AISD website. Where I live a lot of designers won't come meet with you unless the project is 50K or more. One won't even call you back unless you fill out an online form and click the box that says the project is 100K or more! Anyway, this designer was happy to come consult for an hourly fee. She was very helpful on making some design decisions. If we want to we can hire her to manage the project, but we haven't decided about that yet. I think she was recommending engineered bc of it creating less disruption and bc I told her we weren't planning to match the downstairs woodfloor stain color. Also, the samples she brought had some texture to them. Since we haven't decided yet if we'd add a runner, I was hoping we could have some texture on the treads. WHO TO HIRE: Carpenter referenced above: Not sure he is expert enough for the floor and transitions. But I am confident in him for everything else (treads, newels, railing, balustrades, etc). GC: The designer referred me to 2 contractors, and I know a couple more, but I hate hiring GC's bc they always seem to hire unqualified subs (a whole other discussion!), But I know that whenever dealing with a large or complicated project, a GC really is needed. If I do end up going that route, I'll have to find a way to make sure the subs hired really are experts. Carpet/flooring store: I tried going to a few local stores, but they all sub-out the stairs, so I'd be in the same boat as hiring a GC regarding trusting that the subs are experts. ********** If you made it all the way to the end of this response THANK YOU! Any help working out these issues is greatly appreciated. If you think pictures would help, I have some.