Pros and Cons : Pull out Vs Swing out Trash Can
Gemcap
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Not sure if the terminology is correct for I am
trying to compare, but photos are as below.
The second photo where the door
opens to the side is what I am calling the Swing Out.
I would be grateful for views on whether there a benefit
or advantage to using one over the other, over and above ergonomic reasons
/ for space maximization?
Many thanks
Featured Answer
Comments (13)
kirkhall
9 years agoGemcap
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Can you tell me pros/cons Laminate vs Hardwood
Comments (2)The plastic wear layer of laminate is probably better if you anticipate more dog accidents. A wider plank would probably be better in this case. If the urine gets into a seam, then the smell/moisture will infiltrate the laminate substrate and you will probably have to replace a plank. You can get click and lock engineered hardwood. It installs just like click and lock laminate. Kahrs has been mentioned a lot on this board as a good brand. The engineered flooring that imitates solid hardwood the best uses a sliced or sawn face layer instead of peeled. I prefer the very thick sawn face layer products, but they are generally high priced compared to solid hardwood. Look for a satin sheen if you can find it, because it hides surface scratches better than semi-gloss. We have a medium dog and kids and scuffs and scratches are not a big deal with our hardwood floor. They are hardly noticeable because the red oak had lots of grain, is natural in color/finish, and has a satin sheen. Even where the dog jumps onto the bed and her claws have dug slightly into the wood, it just adds to the character of the #1 common wood. Laminate tries to imitate clear or select grade hardwood and gives a uniform and repeating surface picture. It is generally durable, but it does dent and the surface layer can chip on the edges/ends if not installed properly and/or in commercial applications....See MorePros and cons of custom made cabs vs. manufactured brand?
Comments (22)My experience is similar to babushka_cat. I had a difficult space and my primary goal was to maximize storate. I ended up with custom cabinets, but that was not my original plan. As I started to sketch my designs, I realized that I was going to have a tough time with maximizing my storage space using standard sizing. I had odd angles to work with, meaning that I�d have to have several custom cuts to any standard cabinets. I visited a lot of showrooms, and I was really interested in some of the European cabinets, mainly because they came in a lot of "standard" sizes. Those lines gave me many more options in depth and width, so I was strongly leaning to Scavolini or Snaidero (much cheaper than the German lines I liked.) When I was talking to my contractor, he told me they work with a custom cabinet maker, and he said I should consider that route. I was weary because I didn�t know if the finish would be as durable or if the quality would be good. But, after looking at his work in other houses, and seeing that his price quote was cheaper I was convinced. I am really happy that I went this route. This gave me flexibility to make changes at no additional cost. We also had a problem with the handle installation that hole in the door. No problem, the cabinet maker sent a new door the next day. I also added a couple of small, shallow wall cabinets to flank the sink once I realized I could better utilize what would have been blank wall space. No problem, the cabinet maker sent these two days later. I got extra deep drawers in my island so that I could avoid a blind corner, I got custom cut outs to my drawers so that I could have a pop up socket, I got special cabinet cuts to accommodate a trash can in a shallow cabinet, I got an giant sink cabinet so that I could have a huge sink. Everything turned out better because I could work with the contractor and cabinet maker on-site and in real time. And it didn�t cost more. That being said, custom may not be for everyone, but since I had really specific goals and a difficult floor plan, it was a great choice for me. Take a look at how you work, how you approach the design and build process, and talk to your general contractor about his experience with custom cabinets. Having a general contractor who works well with the custom cabinet maker is critical to a successful outcome....See MorePull Out Trash
Comments (47)Hmmmm. The toe kicker extends from 2" to 2 3/4". So if it is mounted on the outside back of the drawer, you need a minimum of 2". I wonder if that is unusual? I've never checked to see how far back my drawers go when they are closed. What is standard? However, it does say that it can be mounted from the inside back of the drawer (presumably this requires drilling a hole for the mechanism to go through). So I might go that route. I had wanted the kind of trash cabinet where the can hangs from the side rails, but unless there is some kind of back on it, the toe kicker wouldn't work with that set up (and then maybe you'd have to "kick" it higher up with your hip?). So I assume I'll have to change to the kind where the trash can sits on the platform. Then it will be more like a drawer. Francy...See MoreAdjustable shelves vs. pull outs
Comments (11)If it's not too late.... I would change the majority of pullouts & fixed shelves to drawers, including under the oven. Reasons: (1) Economy of motion (one motion to open/close drawers vs 2 or 3 motions for pullout shelves) (2) Drawers have higher sides so things don't fall off even when pushed to side while looking for something or when trying to cram all you can in a single drawer! (3) Aesthetically, drawers usually look nicer than doors (JMHO!) BTW...If you have a tall area for tray storage above the ovens, I would put a shelf in the bottom for platters, etc. and then then the tray storage on top of that. See the picture below for an example of tray space above double ovens. We used the cheap tray divider inserts ($5.99 each) from Wal-Mart...they work great! We were able to fit 3 across. Much cheaper than the Rev-A-Shelf tray dividers and no screws to "damage" shelves or cabinet bottoms. [For those interested, base cabinet alternative for tray storage: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0716385727860.html] Do you have a step-in or walk-in pantry? If so, I think that would be a better place to store the larger appliances...they can be stored waist-high and much easier to get out (or they can be stored on the floor or lower shelf). Plates, Pots & Pans, & flour I would rather store in drawers in the appropriate areas, if I could. Flour in baking center, pots & pans under cooktop, and plates in dish storage. Example of pot storage under the cooktop (frying pans, steamer, etc. in drawer below this one). See the picture above for platter storage...I put all my platters over the ovens! +++++++++++++ The only reason I can think of for adjustable/stationary shelves in a base cabinet is for open shelving. I can't think of a single reason for fixed/non-adjustable shelves (especially those "half shelves"!)...See More
hatetoshop
9 years agocatbuilder
9 years agoMags438
9 years agodcward89
9 years agoannkh_nd
9 years agoBuehl
9 years ago
raee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
avntgardnr (Laurie)
9 years agoGemcap
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agopocopson
9 years ago
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