Re rugosas: My son recently said that the sweetest smell he knows, because it reminds him of his happy chidlhood, is the smell of rugosas mixed with the smell of chlorine! He explained that it is because the local public swimming pool is surrounded by rugosa hedges. He used to go there every day in summer. Niels, I probably never saw your post, but the Skagen painters mean almost as much to a Swede as to a Dane. It is part of our cultural heritage, too, and several Swedish artists spent time at Skagen. I have just retired from work and almost the last thing I did while still at work was to carry my framed print of a Hammershøi painting to a colleague who had admired it. I know Vilhelm Hammershøi was not a member of the Skagen colony but I somehow connect him to them although he mostly painted interiors. It's something about the light, our very soecial Nordic light. Finland has this same light, of course, and Hanna Pauli captures it in this iconic painting that really appeals to Scandinavians. No rose though. Here is a link that might be useful:

Kimmsr- Thanks for the detailed reply. The info you provided is helpful. I do have some other questions though. I live about an hour southwest of Chicago in zone 5, late last summer I did the jar test and My soil is about 85 % hard clay, which is strange because one block away the soil is about 70 % sand. Last year I did 2 applications of the shampoo and it helped out with water retention. How do I know when weed seeds will start to germinate? Also what can be done using CGM that will not give me positive results? It sounds like timing is everything with that. My issues with weeds didn't surface until July last year. But they were way outta control. I just figured there would be something I could do early in the year to prevent a lot of them. This lead me to CGM which I'm having a very difficult time finding in my area. In the past I have always mowed at the highest, or second highest height setting on my mower, cutting no more than 1/3 inch at on time. We have had a ton of precipitation this winter and the ground is very moist. I don't know how much of an impact the temps are but we haven't had consistent temps over 40 since last fall. Late March into early April looks like we will be hitting mid 50's consistently. As for watering I learned that I was doing that all wrong as well, listening to the lawn care company they tell you to water every other day, even the irrigation company suggests the same. I'm glad I found this communityð As far as the mole issue I have tried a few different things to combat them. Good to know that i may only have one to deal with. I have had success using both methods but no consistently. The first method I tried was a little metal mole trap that you press into the ground with your foot over their tunnel. After moving this around 4 or 5 times I caught one and that Tom care of my problem for the rest of that year. However I looked toward a less lethal approach. Which lead me to Dr. T's whole control. This is 100 percent castor oil and this also worked for about 5 weeks but after that they came back with a vengeance, and I couldn't repel them at all. After reading your post I learned that I need about twice as much as I used. The bottle says the pint will treat 5000 sq feet. So I guess I will continue to use the trap and the whole control. At least I had some kind of results using both methods. One last question I have is do I over seed? I have read conflicting posts about this, from "you never need to over seed KBG" to "over seeding will help build thicker KBG turf" either way I have not done this in the past 2 years. The lawn care company would over seed when they aerated the lawn.

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OK...so we have some more details. Excellent. Your style and the home's interior suggest transitional or traditional. That usually means a natural wood-look floor (like natural white oak, or maple, etc) would do very well in this home. It would mean a "like for like" replacement of what you have already. The carpet is very light (which means it is a non-entity when it comes to design). That means a natural (unstained) wood floor would look very warm and inviting. I will give a warning about sheet goods (carpet and sheet vinyl...like what you have): They hide TREMENDOUS amounts of subfloor issues underneath them. That's why builders LOVE them. These two products (like what your photos show) can hide the most atrocious substrates. Because of this, I would suggest a subfloor prep cost of $2-$3/sf. If I'm wrong and you can get away with $1-$2/sf then you have saved some money. But if I'm right, your subfloor prep is going to eat a significant amount of your budget. You can always work backwards to figure out your budget for the flooring purchase. 1. Subfloor prep: $3/sf x 2100sf = $6,300 2. Labour for vinyl plank install: $2.50/sf x 2100 = $5250 3. Budget left over: $15,000 - 6300 - 5250 = $3450 4. Budget for flooring material (including 5% waste = 2205sf): $1.57/sf