Long Shot: Who knows how to track down reproduction or vintage tile?
Hillside House
9 years ago
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asm198 - Zone 6a (MO)
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoHillside House thanked asm198 - Zone 6a (MO)Related Discussions
Rose Bush Shots - For the Interested (Very Long)
Comments (32)Building on the Comtesse's thread, I was wondering: mightn't a hedge of rosemary be more feasible? not that the rabbits would eat it, but I have heard that grazing-types animals prefer to avoid places with a lot of rosemary; it's scent ,if planted in abundance, is strong and masks the scent of the predators,so animals that tend to wind up as being preyed on don't want to stick around too long, since it inhibits their self-defense. I use rosemary a lot, meself; I have even noticed that it does have some deterrant effect,though it's no magic solution. My experience: I planted a Cedrus deodara in an un-fenced-against- deer area,protected only by a large neighbouring rosemary, and the beasties did leave it alone for it's first years. Now, last winter, they DID get to it ;I was afraid I'd lost it, they damaged it so badly, but when I finally got down there I saw it was re-sprouting nicely from the base. At that point I put a cage around it, of course. So, you say, silly bart, it didn't work. Well, yes, it sort of did and didn't. We all know that if pressure is too great, deer will eat anything,and they get used to certain deterrants in time ,etc, etc, etc. But I did buy some time for myself and the tree. It may well have been far more effective if there were more rosemarys around, forming a hedge; I have noticed in other cases that a nearby rosemary does tend to make a given plant less of a target for grazing. Besides, rabbits are not deer-they'd find the rosemary branches right in their faces. Rosemary also would not require much in the way of soil preparation, either, or watering. For what it's worth, my aim is to eventually surround the entire perimeter of my large garden with these attractive, no-care evergreen shrubs; it'll take a lot of time, probably, since I only put in a few plants each year,but as I say, I think it does help. It's just part of an IPM program to help keep mammal pests down; it's not "the" solution....See MorePrettykitty's Classic Vintage White Victorian Lacanche Kitchen
Comments (7)Thank you for posting so many lovely, inspirational, and informative photos. I am extremely impressed by your kitchen, but actually, I was wondering if you could give me the paint colors you used for your exterior clapboards and trim--they look fantastic! tia, Alex indentured servant to an 1887 victorian, hoping to actually be done in 7 years....See MoreEmbracing Vintage Bath Tile in Budget Makeover
Comments (42)A vote for NO beadboard. Originally, bb was an early 1900s kind of thing - there's nothing remotely midcentury about it. Now its totally overused and usually in the form of DIY paneling from the big box store. Not that I think we have to be historical purists - just have all the design components relate well and complement each other. In my mind the country-ish flavor of bb doesn't relate well to the more suburban sophisticated style of your tile floor and of the typical 60s ranch house. Unless you've already reworked the rest of the house to be more traditionally styled and beadboard friendly - in that case just pls disregard! Agree that the sprayed on epoxy finish (in any color) can be a good affordable alternative to ripping out the tile and re-installing some other kind of wall. The tub will probably peel so maybe you could just replace that - the money and effort you save not ripping out the tile wall (believe me that is a beast of a job) can go to the cost of replacing the tub....See MoreWho wants to help me plan a bathroom remodel? (super long, sorry!)
Comments (13)Thanks guys! This is the clawfoot tub I am considering: http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/atq/5280827575.html. It is pretty - look at those legs! I would paint the outside a different color though. And if I went drop in, it would probably look a lot like the one in JLC's last picture -- in fact, that picture basically encompasses the whole look I am going for - wainscoting, the closed in shower, the little mosaic tile on the floor. So thanks for that picture! I'm still torn on the tub issue - JLC's post had convinced me that I want drop in (especially the part about it being easier to get in as you age) but amberm is swaying me back again with the prettiness factor. When I look at my inspiration pics, there's a pretty even split between drop-in and clawfoot. One other factor that I didn't mention is that we currently have a laundry chute built into the side of the tub deck -- in my original picture, you can see the hinges where it opens near the floor -- the front of the tub deck pulls open and I can toss laundry down into the laundry room. This is an awesome feature. If I go with a drop in, I will keep the chute where it is (well, it will move back a few inches with the rest of the deck but that will actually make it fall in a better spot in the laundry room so that is fine). But if I go with a clawfoot, I am either going to have to put a trap door in the floor or build some kind of cabinet...and since it would look odd to have either of those right in the middle of the room, I will have to move the whole laundry chute back under the center of the window, which drops the laundry in a less convenient but still workable spot in the laundry room. But then I have to figure out if I want a trap door in the floor or to build some kind of little cabinet or flip out wall thing to serve as the door to the laundry chute -- I'm a little nervous about just making a trap door because it seems dangerous if someone accidentally left it open. So if I went with a clawfoot, I would probably build some kind of cabinet that ran from the edge of the window back to the corner -- the full top of it could server as a ledge for plants and holding stuff you'd want while in the tub while the part that is exposed (not behind the tub) could open for the laundry chute. But this is seeming very complicated and hard to visualize vs. just replicating what we basically have now....and have I mentioned that I'm bad at visualizing?!? I guess it would look something like the way the ledge runs in JLC's Charleston Beach Cottage picture....but looking at that pic, I can't imagine how they are going to get back there to clean the floor under there and I'm worried about having the same problem. To address the counter space concerns, the vanity width is just shy of 80". The current plan is to have a neighbor custom-build my cabinets (that's what he does for a living), so I was going to go with 2 29" sink base cabinets and a 20" drawer unit in the middle. I am also planning a recessed shaker-style built-in medicine cabinet unit that should give me a ton of storage for the stuff that is currently sitting on the counter. So hopefully I wouldn't need a bunch of counter space. I envision it looking something like this: I want it to run the full width of the vanity area. I think I worked out the math and it should be doable and line up with the sinks if I use 20" doors and 4" spacers in between (6" on each end)....but here's where my issue with proportion comes in -- is that too much space? Who knows! Hopefully the cabinet guy has some kind of visualization software where he can dummy it up and I can see what it will look like. There is another window over the back of the tub that isn't visible in this picture so I'm not sure I could make a vanity over there....but I do think I should keep the tub. It is not our only tub but the other one is a regular small tub/shower combo in the kids' bathroom and it would be nice to have one that is a little nicer/bigger. Please keep the feedback coming...you all are bringing up things I haven't thought about before and I really appreciate it!...See Moreasm198 - Zone 6a (MO)
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