We have tried cleaning, replacing valves three times, and nothing has worked. We have 7stations. Number one stays on unless we shut off the main water line. We finally canceled it and hooked up an irrigation timer (that usually connects to a faucet.) We turn it on manually and the pipe jerks so we know it is working properly. When we turn it off, the pipe jerks so we know water is on and off but Number one is still running. We are at our wits end. Anyone out there who can give us an answer?????

My vent is a rigid vent, not a telescoping one. It is 4" typical rigid duct work to the outside except for the flex aluminum stuff that is at the big box that I put in. I have never done any of this before, so I read and tried to figure it out as best I could. The box and flexible duct work I got online at an outfit called the Dryerbox. I linked it below. The box is put in upside down compared to their pictures because my vent goes into my basement and exits the side of the house. Be sure to calculate the duct run that is recommended by your dryer manufacturer. Each 90degree bend subtracts 5' of run you have available as recommended by the manufacturer. So you want to have the least amount of bends. I don't think the flex connection counts though, at least it doesn't for my dryer. You can get these flexable auger like brush for cleaning vents. They sell them at the website I linked below and at Lowes. I used it for my old dryer and it works. You are supposed to be able to run the brush using your drill to spin it, from your outside vent. When we cleaned ours it was beneficial to be able to get the brush right into the dryer itself, attaching a vacuum to pull out accumulated lint. There was plenty. Regarding the water, I think where ever you can reach it and get it turned off is the important thing. I plan on turning the water off between uses, now that I have the set in my living area. My old set is in the basement and I didn't give it a thought. This laundry project has taught me a lot about better management of my appliances. I installed Floodchek hoses on my basement set. http://www.floodchek.com/ I bought 2 sets and gave one set to my plumber. He thought they looked like high pressure hoses. He liked them. Regarding your pull out. Could you have a top and a bottom pull out, then a shelving area with door to hide and access the vent, electric, and water? Here is another drawing of my setup. It shows where the vent goes inside the wall and down to the basement. There will be a door on the shelving area where I can pull out the shelves to get to the vent exiting the dryer on the side. I bought a Miele set and there is the option for side venting. There is also my water connection on the right side that isn't shown on this drawing, but is seen in my picture. I also have and outlet near the front of this cabinet for an iron. The bottom area will be open for a laundry basket, though I will have shelving available if I want to use them. The bottom area is where my electric outlets for the W/D are. The one drawer shown will be one of those pull out ironing boards. I do very little ironing but thought it could be handy. My counter between the ironing drawer and the shelving above will not be exposed, instead hidden behind the door (door not indicated on this drawing) When the door is open there will be the vent box and water hoses visible I'm afraid. But it will be all accessible. Current design of my setup, showing vent that is inside the wall: Here is a link that might be useful: The Dryerbox online store.

Removed old emergency shut off valve and capped the pipe off outside the house. Repressurized the lines inside the house and they held at 15 psi. Replaced the emergency shut off valve and placed it in the off position. Repressurized the guest house lines and everything is holding at 15 psi. I had to get the 1-1/4" valve at a plumbing supply house as Home Depot does not carry them. Moral of the story is these emergency shut off valves can leak internally. As to the question of why I pressurized to 15 psi to test the lines is because most building codes require it or somewhere around this pressure. If it holds at the higher pressure then most likely if will never leak at less than 1 psi. My problem is fixed...I hope this post helps someone else in the future.

If you want to use the facuet your option is to tear in from outside to see what needs to be done. From your skimpy discription,I assume it is a frostproof facuet coming through a brick wall. I would expect the supply to come out of slab through bottom wall plate within 6" right or left of facuet. I wouldn't expect to find a valve in the wall unless someone added it after house was built. A shot in the dark is that the facuet froze because a hose was left attached in cold weather. The wall was cut from inside to alow capping the supply and repair was never completed.