differences in quality between ikea styles cabinets?
eastvillgal
9 years ago
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eastvillgal
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Ikea Datid hood--style flair but don't know about quality
Comments (14)Yes, this is a retrofit in an older home where we used to have a downdraft. We do not want to go the make up air route (our state has quite strict guidelines about this), and we also have size constraints including width and depth. We lived with a wimpy downdraft for all of those years and have now been living without any ventilation for a month or so with our new AG range. We don't do a lot of frying or grilling. What we mainly want the hood to do is to draw hot air from the range out of the kitchen in the summer (the heat it puts out now in winter is pleasant). I never did think about the cleaning aspect of having the extra pieces on the hood, so that is something to consider. Supposedly the top rail allows one to put spices up there, something I'd never do since this would be the worst place in the world for spices. I just like the look of the hood being a bit more decorative than most unless you get up into the mega buck price range. Noise level didn't seem too bad in the store even when on high, but it definitely was noticeable on high. But, the problem as I understand it is that in the store they don't have all of that extra piping and ductwork that most people would have, and that can be the cause of the noise. So, I don't know how one really knows about this. I very rarely shop there, but we are lucky that Ikea is only tem minutes away. In fact, I never would have even considered Ikea for a hood but saw it there a while ago when I stopped in to look for something else....See MoreIkea Cabinets - Which Line is Best Quality?
Comments (13)While it sounds like the Fagerland and the Liljestad lines, being solid wood, are the top quality at Ikea, I know that the colors of those two would be too dark for my friend. I am still confused then. Barrelhead - is your posting above of Ikea lines in order of quality? Are the flat panel doors (ie. Nexus, Perfekt and Rubrik) higher quality than the framed doors (like Adel, Askome, Tidaholm)? I am still confused after reading this thread. I've been on the Ikea website and still can't tell what I should look for to get the best quality doors at Ikea. I know Lisaslists says you can tell when you see them, but I am not so sure I will be able to. Amberly said the quality varies quite a bit, and I'll be able to tell when I look at the label. How will I be able to tell? What materials am I looking to find in the label? Or not find in the label? Or if you know of lines that are really the lower-levels, let me know. Thanks everyone....See MoreQuality of kitchen cabinets: Yorktowne vs IKEA
Comments (31)The water v. cabinet issue has lots of people talk about it, but you kinda have to experience it to see the difference. Full disclosure - I have had some sizable leaks in two different brands of cabinets, including a valve break. Neither were ikea. I have ikea now. This was a monetary decision made after a lot of discussion. We modified all of the base cabinets by adding additional structural parts. I am prepared to ditch the sink cabinets if it becomes necessary and right on to kurtg that a sink base is the one place where the cost of actually doing any replacement completely overwhelms the value you can recover from the warranty. Some of the other things said above? Edge banding is for visual appearance, not a moisture barrier. Unless you are very fortunate, and the glue fills every millimeter of seam, it will not keep out water. YMMV on seams from an original manufacturer. Most cabinet plywood can beat up most particle board for moisture resistance. This is particularly true of ikea where one minute of water exposure to a cut edge is enough to cause deformation. The caulk idea expressed above is cute, but not really practical where pipes enter the bottom of the cabinet. Plus when almost every edge on the entire cabinet is a cut edge, its pretty difficult to make this work. So, how do I know it deforms? Because I tried it. A couple of those trials were yesterday on a cabinet part purchased within the last month. Dunk for a minute, wet sponge sitting on the surface and a decently long dunking of an end. I also tried other materials - like mdf, another companies particle board, hdf and two different types of cabinet plywood with differing cores. Ikea particle board was easily the worst at absorption and deformation. Hdf was easily the best at shape retention - no deformation even after 24 hours of immersion. In decending order of goodness: hdf, osb core cabinet plywood, mdf, home depot type veneer ply, other makers particle board and well behind that, ikea particle board. I will say that water sitting on just the coated surface - the really damp sponge test - took a long time to penetrate something over 10 hours. Water will penetrate all melamine coatings eventually. The problem isn't the coating - its what's inside of the coating. The particle board will tolerant no moisture. This isn't special to ikea. Other brands that use particle board cabinet bottoms (like one of the kinds I had) can also deform from standing water or continually being exposed to water or cleaning chemicals. The amount of time needed for deforming and the results depend on quality of the coating and the quality of the particle board. If you get a good long dunk, expect ikea to be destroyed. The low density fiberboard back is another weak spot. It has a very thin coating that is easily damaged. How easy? Piece of blue tape or slight bending or slide across a counter face down kinda easy. Will disintegrate on exposure to water. Intended as a dust back. It isn't structural - low density fiberboard has no structure. One of the famous weird things that gets said is the cabinet back will stop the cabinet from racking. It's laughable - the concept that this very soft stuff nailed into particle board - that can be pushed back out or bent by any small child - would be capable of structure. It's much more likely the racking will pull the nails out. Also from above, ikea base cabinets have two sides, a bottom and two puny cross pieces. The larger the cabinet, the weaker it is (even with the back attached). I very much doubt the bottom can be removed and the cabinet still has the same structure. They (being cabinet companies) used to sell, and some still do sell, a sink front that was framed - the actual sink cabinet was then built in place. But that was before big sinks and wide cabinets. Some of the large sinks and some of the countertop materials need some decent support up top. It can happen, but relying on just the two small mdf cross pieces with one fastener per end into a side piece held up only by cabinet connectors doesn't sound likely of being able to provide it. Mdf isn't known for its wonderful structural qualities either....See Moreikea closet cabinetry -- quality?
Comments (8)I didn't use doors at all - it's a walk in closet. When we were designing the layout of the bedroom, it was a choice between putting the closet "in" the room (and therefore needing doors and having to be neat) or putting in a narrow but walk-in closet. We opted for the latter, so we could hang stuff on the walls. Besides the PAX units on one long wall, we have bars with hooks (also IKEA) on one of the short walls - we hang backpacks and hats on the hooks) On the other long wall, we have shoe shelves, two little IKEA stools (to sit on to put your socks on), laundry basket, jewelry storage (a necklace thing and one of those pocket contraptions from the Container Store), and trash basket. The other short end is the entrance. I'll send pix along tonight....See Morerichbeau
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