You might want to be careful on the watering - I've almost lost a tree in the ground by over watering. It suffocates the roots, turns yellow, blooms but little fruit are symptoms. Sounds like you may have had problems even before water. You might try watering deeply once every week or 2, depending on the heat. I know the roots like to search for water, so keeping it watered frequently like an ornamental plant is not good. It may be the roots never got established well after planting. Years ago, I had a similar experience to you with a Meyer lemon, and I had to pull it out of the ground (roots were rotten from over-watering) and into a container and baby it back to health. Not sure you need to do this yet - this seems to be common occurrence and there are some good experts here to help you, and you may have another problem to begin, but I do know frequent watering is most often the wrong direction. Here is a link that might be useful: Orange Tre eProblem

For citrus groves, the eulophid wasp is pretty effective in controlling peelminer. Since there are several wasp species in Florida that do the same for leaf miner, I imagine there would be some possible cross-parasitism. Unfortunately, cultivating wasps is out of the question for backyard hobbyists. It's my opinion that the benefit of neem oil is more preventative, in keeping the adult form from even landing on a tree that's been sprayed. That because of the smell, more than anything else. There's probably a pesticidal benefit for insects the oil contacts as well, but when I spray, I'm not especially concerned with getting the oil on all parts of new flushes. This is why I think that neem will be an effect deterrent in both cases. Peelminer adults lay eggs on the bottom sides of leaves (allowing them to be sheltered from large-scale pesticidal applications), but leaf miner behaves similarly. I can eliminate leaf miner by spraying the top sides of leaves. So, it stands to reason that the effects of neem oil would be similar for both moth species. Moths have highly-developed senses of smell. -Bruce

I will not be keeping my windows open and plan to not heat see below. My greenhouse is made of glass and wood all of which I pulled out of contraction dumpsters. I have enough glass for a 500 square foot surface with 4 layers of glass. This will give me a 37 foot by 15 foot tall lean-to green house at 8 feet wide against the south side of my house . The outside layer of glass is hermetically sealed. The 3 inside glazes breath some. The inside is kept humid. When the surface get cold the vapor in the air condenses and give the heat of fusion to the inside air. This keeps the inside warm. When the out side gets below freezing the vapor must condense first (520 cal./gram H2O) then must release another 80 cal. per gram h2o to the in side air thus keeping it warm inside. The outer glass surface is locked at 32 F until all the moisture on its surface is ice. The next layer of glass must go through the same, then the third layer must succumb to this solid ice frosty state, The frosty state of moisture on the glass will greatly decrease the amount of heat that can slip through. This alone probable guaranties my safety to 10 F for many days in a row. I heat the growing medium with the south basement wall. The R value of it is about R-4, While the other 3 walls are R-150 Minimum an loose near 0 heat. I heat the basement to about 75 F. There are no ducts to heat any where else in the house. With living area walls at R-40 they loose heat slowly enough to stay warm with the heat in the basement just bleeding up. The warm basement wall keeps the greenhouse soil at 60 F min. My annual natural gas heating bill is under $200 . If the temperatures drop below 0 F I will have to place out buckets of warm water to supply the needed humidity to power the gasses phase change heating system. Steve

To gatormom, (trinigemini's reply below as well) One tree is a large, well-established Florida navel orange. It just hasn't been the same since Hurricane Wilma. Produces oranges but they are fewer in number and not as high quality as they used to be. I fertilize it the recommended times per year but don't usually spray anything on it but soap spray mixed with canola oil. The lemon variety is a Eureka which I planted last year. It took a while to take root but finally has and is looking nice at about 4.5 feet tall. There are 5 golf ball size lemons on it. I watered this one well until it got established and when we were in the drought, and I fertilize it routinely as well. This tree looks okay except for some chewed and a few curled leaves. I plan to spray them with one of the non-toxic sprays in a day or so. Trinigemini, I don't think I'd use Bayer Tree and Shrub on the citrus and then eat the fruit because this pesticide is systemic which means it poisons the whole tree. Maybe try a less toxic formula such as one mentioned above? Best, Sheri :-)