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Gardenwebbers seem to appreciate seeing some of my jobs in progress. I removed the spacer that was grouted in place in this kitchen (you can't make this stuff up) and replaced a tile chipped by the tenants dropping a coffee cup from the dishwasher.

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I connected my rotozip with the masonry blade to the vacuum and cut out the grout without touching the perimeter tile. You don't want grout to transfer a hammer blow to a good tile; I've only got two replacements. This tile was laid over a cork floor; either that or someone was using cork as an uncoupling membrane.

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All the cork and thinset are removed and I've removed the grout from the perimeter tile by hand with a chisel. It's vacuumed clean and before I apply the fast setting thinset, I moisten the floor and the back of the tile to keep both from sucking the moisture out of my thinset. I "back butter" the tile with thinset so this tile isn't going anywhere and grout immediately.

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The replacement tile is set in place, but I can't cure "lippage" created by others. It's flush on three sides, but it's not my fault flat tile can't bend and I'm not replacing the lower adjacent tile, as it may not solve the problem. It's important to explain this to customers so they know what to say to their handy brother-in-law when he comes over with a drink and a straightedge.

Probably the most "artsy" part of this project is matching the grout. I usually make customers provide the grout so I don't have to listen to any complaints, but in this case I was able to tint white grout with a sprinkle of gray thinset to get the color nearly perfect. You want it just a bit brighter, so when they rub some dirt into it and the sun shines on it, the match will be perfect in a month or two.

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