Hi Tara, Thanks for the kind words! The design was a labor of love and I second-guessed myself so much I nearly went crazy! So thank you. And yes, those old ceiling fixtures were doozies, weren't they? My husband bought the house without me seeing it (cross-country move and me too pregnant to travel) and those lights were my least-favorite surprise when we moved in... The window treatment is a new addition -- went in just days before Christmas. The treatment over the sink is a faux-shade -- that is, it doesn't really go up or down, because I had had blinds there before and never moved them. On the windows by the table I have roman shades in the same fabric, lined with heavy fabric b/c we need light control there. All were custom made by a woman in Northern Virginia. The fabric is "Paddock Shawl" by Waverly; the color is "Porcelain." Please feel free to email me if you have more questions! Amy

Here is how I would expect a pro to spray paint kitchen cabinets. A brush painted job would differ slightly in that you wouldn't hang the doors to paint. You'd place them on a work table or easel instead. It's time intensive work, and should take 7-14 days to accomplish completely and cost between 3K-7K depending on kitchen size and amount of detail in cabinets. Remove doors and drawer fronts. Remove hinges and hardware. Clean with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) Rinse and let dry. Scrape any loose finish. Fill any damaged spots or hardware holes that won't be reused. Sand fill smooth. Scuff sand the rest. Tack off dust. Hang in dust free paint booth with wires through hardware points. Tack off dust again. Spray with alkyd based primer. Scuff sand again. Tack off dust. Spray with second coat of primer. Spray with first finish coat of latex enamel. Spray with second coat of latex. If glazing is to occur, that is next. Spray with conversion varnish. (If being brush painted, this step is typically skipped.) Add more molding or decorative details to boxes, filling nail holes and sanding smooth. Repeat prep process with face frames and exposed cabinet sides using plastic to create a spray booth on site. If interiors are to be done, they are done before face frames and sides. Interiors are difficult, and add both time and expense to the job. Allow everything to fully cure. Clean hinges and hardware and clear coat if you're keeping the old hardware. Install new (or old) hinges and hardware. Re-install doors and drawers and adjust for proper clearances. If you are receiving a job without this amount of effort, then you are not receiving a quality professional job.

I made several bathroom straddle the toilet cabinets with sliding(one set mirrored) doors, open shelves, hinged doors. I made them using #2 1" by 12" pine from the lumberyard. Which was full of knots and pitch---which bleeds through most primers/paint---especially Kilz. So, since I did not want the bleed through, or any of the other problems associated with wood and moist environments, I first applied two coats of BIN primer(Zinnser) followed by two coats of white alkyd enamel from Sherwin Williams to all surfaces to include ends and grooves(made wider to accommodate the paint). Now, the BIN is simple and easy, the alkyd enamel not so easy. I used a brush, spraying would be better. As for longevity? One is still in use, in a bath 12 years later. No bleed through, no woodrot, no yellowing.

Lovely kitchen! Question: why did you choose to end the backsplash past the upper cabinet, but not the end of the peninsula countertop? I have an almost similar situation w/ my upper cabinet and countertop. HOWEVER, my peninsula countertop (butcherblock) is a different material from my cooktop countertop (marble). I'm planning to end my backsplash (marble) to line up w/ the upper cabinet, even though it'll go past the countertop into the butcherblock (hard to explain). And I guess I'm just looking for validation. Thank you. Amanda