From what you describe, the lasagna method might be preferable, but I would do at least one bed built from purchased soil and compost. You will want to cover the ground well with some kind of barrier to prevent the existing vegetation from growing up through your beds, cardboard and multiple layers of newspaper are favored materials. You should start accumulating lasagna materials now, and if there is not too much snow on the ground, could in fact start the building process. The "green" material will likely freeze, and therefor remain "green" until warmer temps allow the decomposition process to start. In the lasagna beds, you will be able to grow tomatoes and squashes (and some other things) without having to incorporate much actual soil, they can survive the processes of decomposition going on below them, The beds built with soil and compost will be better suited to those crops that require a more mature soil, and those that prefer a finer tilth... salad greens and root crops spring first to mind. Other plants might be most advantageously started in pots until the lasagna beds have reached a stage of decomposition that is less injurious to tender roots. The pots could be situated in areas where you plan future beds, thus providing a way to kill the existing vegetation in the soil beneath them without having to dig (which you seem to want to avoid) or sacrifice ground. There are big differences between (and among) purchased composts and soils. Be careful that what you are buying is truly what you want. You don't need a lot provided your native soil is relatively healthy, though the texture may not be ideal. If you have a native population of earthworms, they will eventually create the soil you will benefit from most, if not, introducing them, from a near-by source, when you start your beds, will go a long way towards creating better tilth. And skip that liquid stuff for now. If you want to buy something in a bottle for your garden, I'd recommend a nice crisp white to accompany the salads and grilled veggies you'll be enjoying this summer.

What is SAYS in the bag is much less important than what is actually IN the bag. To growing strictly in compost of mixes made of of very large fractions of compost is to unnecessarily saddle oneself with a difficulty factor best avoided. The reasons: 1) Water retention is based primarily on the size of the particles that make up the substrate. All small particles, as in "finished" compost, and the medium is sure to hold too much water and too little air; and, much of the excess water will be held as perched water. This ultimately means north of 3" and up to 6-7" of the soil in the bottom of the pot will be 100% saturated after a thorough watering. This means that for extended periods the planting will be subjected to limitations imposed by a lack of oxygen. Lack of oxygen kills fine roots, which halts top growth until new roots are again capable of regeneration (requiring a draw down of the level of water in the pot). Regeneration of new roots requires resources that would otherwise have contributed to adding more biomass, blooms, fruit, stored energy. Unfortunately, about the time the root to shoot ratio has come back into balance, the grower is usually watering again, which begins a repeat of a cyclic death/ regeneration of roots which can rob plants of immense fractions of their genetic potential. 2) IF the compost is in larger pieces (not finished), expect an unmanageable (or nearly so) level of nitrogen immobilization. Then, if something cultural occurs to kill off the large populations of soil biota (like over-watering or high soil temperatures, insecticides making their way into the soil) associated with nitrogen immobilization, look for ammonia toxicity to make its appearance. It is SOOO much easier if you start with 75-80% of coarse material (>1.8") and add only enough fine material to adjust water retention to something you can live with. Do understand though, that when your watering intervals start to stretch out to beyond 5 days, you'll be sacrificing a notable measure of your planting's potential on the altar of convenience. If you can measure your watering intervals in weeks instead of days, an immense amount of potential in terms of growth rate, vitality, the plant's ability to defend itself, and yields where applicable, has almost certainly been lost. Al

You might want to look up lasagna gardening for using a 50/50 manure mulch combo. It is a different method of composting to build good soil. Usually manure is dug into soil, or watered in via deep watering. Mulch is used as a top dressing to help the soil retain moisture and to help prevent weeds from sprouting. Usually compost is made up of yard and kitchen waste. Some people also add paper products, such as newspaper, cardboard and junk mail. Weeds, prunings, grass clippings and spent plants go into the compost bin, as well as kitchen scraps such as banana peels, egg shells, potato peelings, etc. The "recipe" is 1/3 green materials, such as mentioned above, to 2/3s brown materials which would be dead plants and dry leaves. Approximate measure is good--doesn't have to be exact. If you are going to make sure your compost gets hot in temperature by creating the proper mix of green and brown, you can put plants which contain seed pods into the compost bin. High temperatures will kill the seeds, which is what you want. Otherwise, you don't want to put seed pods in the compost because they will germinate everywhere you spread your finished compost. Compost should be kept moist to speed decomposition. Most of us have found out over time that turning compost frequently isn't actually necessary. It is good to stir it up once in awhile. Take care not to breathe in dust, etc. which may rise from the compost as you aerate. There can be mold spores, which you do not want to inhale. Leftover black or green tea can be used as a kick starter to help compost decompose more quickly. It has enzymes which are beneficial. If you cut large things into 12" increments, that also helps speed up decomposition. Do not put diseased or bug infested plants into your compost. I have some trimmings from squash bug infested squash plants, which I will burn rather than add to my compost bin. Lorna

kt.. I don't know where you found that document but it was very interesting reading. I haven't finished looking at it yet..it is pretty long..84 pages, so I skipped to the conclusions at the end. [g] I can see where you would be encouraging me to make my own compost. I did go to the NOFA website [link below] and they offer a list of companies in New England that produce organic compost. I am going to call a few tomorrow. None of them are within an hour of me. Some of them sell it by the bag, but I would rather buy in bulk and either pick up or have delivered. Yes, I would love to make my own compost. First of all, I have a small property and collecting other people's leaves would be the only way I could get anywhere near enough. Second, no one here has a strong enough back to be turning over the pile. We do already have a cold compost pile of just leaves, grass and yard waste..but it is not nearly enough. I also have two plastic composters to put food scraps into, but either we all forget to put the scraps into the container or we forget to water the pile or both. [g] Plus, then we are back to having to shovel or turn the pile at some point. Other reasons make it difficult for us to compost too, so the end result is I never have enough and my soil really needs it because I have a lot of dry shade. BTW, I always just pile the leaves on the grass and mow it and that seems to chop them up fine. I will report back if I am able to locate any. Thanks kt, :-) Here is a link that might be useful: NOFA