There are a whole host of past discussions over this same topic. Perhaps you might want to read through them and then reframe your question more specifically to a particular issue.

Here is a link that might be useful: Past discussions

In most classically-based architecture where I live, (The revivals: Greek, Italianate, Renaissance, Colonial) there is a hierarchy of door and window height that corresponds to ceiling height.

But with the exception of the large pocket doors between front and back parlors the top of the window is Always higher than the door and has more to do with relating to the ceiling height--while the doors vary, but not so much with ceiling height. Here is an example with a building I lived in (Greek Revival):

1st floor: Ceiling 14', Windows 11'6", Doors 8'
2nd floor: Ceiling 12', Windows 10', Doors 8'
3rd floor: Ceiling 10, Windows, 8'6"-9', Doors 7'
4th floor: Ceiling 8' Windows, 7'3" Doors 6'8"

The lining up of door and window heights in an otherwise traditionally detailed house, seems to me a relatively recent affectation and I think it sometimes puts the windows too low or requires doors that are too tall. It used to be pretty standard that window height was higher than door height, to my knowledge.

Be VERY careful about changing windows and doors from what was specified in your plans! Always draw the changes to scale to determine if you like the look. I've read posts on this forum where people changed window and door sizes "on the fly" and were disappointed with the look. At that point, it will be costly to correct the mistake.

The criteria in the residential code requiring tempered glass for windows or doors are more involved than just the distance from the floor. This topic has been covered on the forum.

Here is what was stated about the code in a post from Feb 2013:
"The applicable code for a home would be the IRC but it has essentially the same requirement for safety glazing as the IBC.
An accurate restatement of the code requirement will answer your question:

3. Glazing in an individual fixed or operable panel that meets all of the following conditions:

3.1. The exposed area of an individual pane is larger than 9 square feet; and

3.2. The bottom edge of the [exposed] glazing is less than 18 inches above the floor; and

3.3. The top edge of the [exposed] glazing is more than 36 inches above the floor; and

3.4. One or more walking surfaces are within 36 inches, measured horizontally and in a straight line, of the glazing."

In this photo the window is 6 feet tall in a room with 9 foot ceiling. The sliding door is a standard 6'8" height. There is 24" of drywall above the window trim and about 8" from the floor to the trim.

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Here is a link that might be useful: Post about tempered glass requirements

Our renovation has parts with 10', 9' and 8' ceilings. In nearly all cases, I ended up having the tops of windows lined up with the bottom of the header for ease of framing, so with all the framing members, the tops of the rough openings of the windows was about 11" below the ceiling height. I just tweaked the window sizes to get them to the height-above-the-floor I wanted, lining up their tops. That maximized the window size for me, which was a goal.

Door sizes are standard . . . in the 10 & 9' ceiling areas, I did use two 8' exterior doors, as they look more in proportion to the high ceilings. I didn't use oversize interior doors, though, as that'd have driven up the cost astronomically. (I'm using cheap interior doors that are not available in oversize . . . My exterior doors were around $1000 each either way, and so the change in size only cost a couple hundred dollars each door.)

If you window size and ceiling heights come close to lining up, it is probably worth losing just a couple inches on window size if you can nudge them lower to align with the tops of your doors. An 8' door for a 9' ceiling would line up well with windows placed just under the ceiling header (plus an extra inch or two of additional framing). So, if you can go with 8' exterior doors, you could line up most of your windows with the top edge of your doors .. .

Sorry I can't get downstairs to measure for you, but I thought I'd attach a pic of the window and doors in our exercise room.

Upstairs, you can't see the window tops as they are all covered by window treatments.

we just ordered integrity by marvin windows and their 6' windows will only come in tempered glass. We drew them in our plans hung at 8' with 9' ceilings to prevent the additional cost. But for + 5% for tempered I like the peace of mind that if a 6' window were to break, no dangerous shards falling in the house..

We have 9 foot ceilings and 6'8 doors. The windows are lined up with the top of the door.

we have 9' ceilings with regular height doors and our window are 2'8" by 6'0"

we have 9' ceilings with regular height doors and our window are 2'8" by 6'0"

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Refreshing this hoping to gather more opinions. For 9-foot ceilings I can set window headers at 7'8" (i.e. 92"), basically a full foot above the window and door headers typical of an 8-foot ceiling, or go just a half-foot up and set the windows at 7'2" (86"). I've heard advice to default to the higher headers but coming from all 8-foot height living I'm worried about rooms getting a bit formal or cold. If you had a default for 9-foot ceilings which would you choose? Slightly higher at 7'8" (i.e. 16" from the 9-ft ceiling) or a more conservative 7'2"? Door headers aren’t a definitive guide in my case because ours will vary between a 6’8” entry door (w/ overdoor trim) and an 8’ sliding patio door. All input/experience appreciated.

The higher the window head, the more natural light is admitted further into the interior spaces.

For a 9-foot ceiling, I might consider flush framing the opening head with the bottom of the ceiling rafters, putting the window head at a nominal 9-feet above floor sheathing. Of course that means larger windows and more $. To me, natural light and exterior views are worth it.

Unless there's a header in place of the band joist (in the plane of the attic/second floor), the highest window would be framed to the bottom of a header about a foot below the ceiling.

Following up on my 1/9/2019 post. After conferring with our architect he had no concerns setting headers at full 8' height for 9-foot ceilings. Typically we are going with 6-foot tall windows, thus they are starting 24" from the floor. Headers on these will also match an 8' front door and 8' hall closet doors.

Eric, if you are still on Houzz, how tall are your interior doors? Do you feel like you made the right decision? We are in exactly the same situation and I am concerned about window headers at 8 feet and 6’8” doors in the same room. Thanks!

I am in a situation where I realized our windows are sitting in line with the 6’8” door and they look ridiculous the more I look at it. I need to go back tomorrow and measure ... there’s more space above the window than there is below it.

The picture above isn’t the worst thing ever, but the living room area is where my eye caught it ... I’ll have to post a picture tomorrow. You can see the front door in it, and I think... these windows should have been higher.

Good luck! It’s hard to find a good answer. I think yours is better than a 6’8” door with a window header at 8’. :)

Maybe the fact that my husband is so tall, it makes this window placement look like a mistake.

I’m sorry! I know how stressful it is! Maybe once your furniture is in it won’t be as noticeable.

@Katie Long when you hang curtains it will help. Remember High and Wide. Here's a good guide.

https://www.twofeetfirst.net/hang-curtains/?utm_medium=social&utm_source=pinterest&utm_campaign=tailwind_smartloop&utm_content=smartloop&utm_term=39204366

I'm going through the same thing right now. In my humble opinion, with 9' ceilings and 6' 8" doors you do not want to line the windows up with the doors. No older home designed by a real craftsman ever did that. The windows were always higher. I've been in many older houses with high ceiling and the windows are always higher than the doors and it looks great.

I was also just recently in a newer build McMansion type house with 9' ceiling and the windows were all at 6'8". This was the first time I had ever actually seen this in person and it made this conclusion very clear to me; it looked terrible. The windows looked too low. It looked cheap and awkward. It looked like a mistake.

From what I've seen, the minimun you want to go is 90". That gives you 18" top and bottom for 6' windows. I don't think you ever want there to be more space on top than on the bottom with a window. With doors it doesn't matter because they obviously always go right down to the floor. I think anywhere between 90 and 96 looks good. I'm personally trying now to decide between 90, 92 and 96.

Our builder puts window headers at 95”. I spoke with an architect friend who said that using 7’ interior doors will make a big difference so that‘s the route we decided on. Good luck!

It's a good idea to check and see where your soffits will end up. On a steep pitch roof you want to make sure the soffits don't interfere with the windows.