This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

Curb movement like that is typically from a wood-built curb (stacked 2-by lumber, for example) that is absorbing moisture and expanding/swelling. How is moisture getting to the curb? Could be one of several things. Not sure how conscientious the installer was in terms of making sure the shower pan membrane is sloped (versus laying the membrane flat on a flat subfloor), or how he detailed the membrane over the curb. It's possible there are nails through the top or inside faces of the curb (and thus through the membrane) and moisture is getting through the nail holes. It's possible that he built you a perfect curb but used wet pressure-treated wood and the PT wood is warping as it dries. Or your house is on a slab, and he put the wood right on the slab. Moisture through the slab is causing the wood curb to expand. So it could be one of several things. It should be fairly easy to diagnose though, as the tiles are popping off on the outside face of the curb. They'll have to be removed eventually to diagnose and repair. When they are removed, take a look to see what's in there. Post photos if you can. To give you a bit of an education as to how a typical CPE-membraned shower with a wood curb is built, check out Harry's pictorial. Note that Harry's membrane is "draped" over the wood curb. That there are no nails/screws on the top or inside face of the curb. That the lathe (wire mesh) is bent in a "U" shape and it's simply the inverted "U" bends that hold it over the curb. Again, there are no fasteners through the lathe and into the top or inside face of the curb. I have seen instances where the membrane gets draped over the wood curb, then the installer nails cement board on the three faces of the curb and tiles on the cement board. Not good. Again, nails through the membrane on the top and inside face are a no-no. I don't see screws through the bottom track of your door frame that go into the curb. That's good. Best, Mongo

impossible to see. best guess would be fire rated foam, caulk doesn't dry & fall into bits, it falls in strips like it is applied. rather than try to dig it out, use Hardcast brand #1402 mastic tape & seal from inside housing of fan to sheetrock ceiling. this will keep particles from falling out, and provide an air seal at the opening cut into the sheetrock. keep the mastic tape within the area of the ceiling covered by the cover of the fan. you do know how to remove the cover of the fan? turn off light at light switch. take off cover for light bulb, remove light bulb, undo acorn screw. this will allow cover to drop. holding the cover in place will be the plug in for the light, which is a regular plug with the outlet inside of housing. unplug. the metal bulb housing is seperate from plastic cover. (this is the pic I was asking for...) hardcast mastic 1402 tape is available at hvac supply & is the best product I've found in 15+ years to seal metal to sheetrock (& many other surfaces) surfaces must be clean & dry. while I don't have a pic of a sealed housing for bath fan, it is the same process as for sealing supply boxes (for hvac) to ceilings. below is pic. best of luck. best of luck.

Whats standard? Might depend on where you live. :-) In Arizona, my tract builder routinely used grout to seal the gap between the tile and the baseboard (they used *nothing* between the carpet and baseboard). I never had any complaints with the grout, even after our house flooded. In Texas, my tract builder routinely used caulk to seal the gap between the tile and the baseboard (again, nothing was used between carpet and baseboard). I, personally, dislike the aesthetics of white caulk (to match white baseboards) running along the bottom of every wall -- it has always reminded me of a bathroom. When I viewed the model homes, it felt like I was walking through a ginormous bathroom. :-/ As an experiment, my husband beautifully installed beadboard and beefy baseboards in our pantry, and when he sealed the baseboard/floor, he used a very thin line of caulk that matched the *grout*. It looks a million times better. I remember asking a similar question here on GardenWeb, a few years back, when my current home was being built... And I think it was a member named "worthy" who mentioned using caulk as a barrier for insects. That pretty much sold me on the idea, since we have fire ants here (had over 300 scorpions in our house in AZ, the first year we lived there; I'll take fire ants any time!). Unfortunately, you'd have to caulk/grout EVERY baseboard, which tract builders won't typically do if you have carpet anywhere. Based on your photos (except the first one -- that's really sloppy), I love that the builder seems to have tiled *to the wall* and then put the baseboards on. My builder -- sigh -- tiled roughly 1/4 of an inch away from where they anticipated the baseboard would be (I actually have 1/2" of caulked space between tile and baseboard in a hallway), so I have a ton of horizontal caulk lines all over the place that trap dirt and shrink up. Scrubbing caulk with baby wipes is fun. :-/