This seems to spread from one leaf to another. It started on my Datura and and is now on my pepper plants too. Is there an insect causing this or something else. I don't see anything.

Let us know if any change. if you think it could be a deficiency the best way is a soil sample to your local extension, and tell them you want to grow raspberries. they will tell you what you need. If you want to just cover all bases. use Holly Tone or any complete balanced organic fertilizer. Dr Earth is also excellent. Many exist. You could add azomite, rock phosphate, also use kelp. This will supply all trace minerals and such. Iron is good too, like Iron-Tone. In the photo I see a small leaf with tip burn. That is usually too much nitrogen. Possible you have a leaf spot of some kind. If not many leaves are like this remove them. You can use copper, sulfur, lime sulfur as a preventative. All organic fungicides. I don't have any fungal problems here, but do use a preventative, as I need it for fruit trees, I hit the brambles while I'm spraying the trees.Usually early in the season before any flowers or berries. I use nothing once flowers form.

I'll kind of make comments as I go down your list of comments. Container culture is much closer to hydroponics than it is to growing in the ground. Your soil provides very little in the way of nutrition, and what nutrition it does supply is incomplete - or 'spotty'. Your safest bet is to proceed as though your soil provides NO nutrition and as though you need to provide all nutrition. No fertilizer applications since 8/09 is assurance of deficiencies. Some plant nutrients are mobile; that is to say the plant can borrow them from one place and move them to another. It is normal for plants to 'pull' the mobile nutrients from old parts, then shed them, in the process of reallocating nutrients to organs that are newly forming. IOW, the plant steals nutrients (mainly N, but P, K, and Mg, too) from old leaves so it can make new leaves. The immobile nutrient (mainly the micro-nutrients, + Ca) deficiencies show up in newly emerging organs because the plant cannot relocate them - they need to be in constant supply in the nutrient stream. It's important that you use a soil that allows you to water as I described. When you water in small sips, dissolved solids (salts) from fertilizers and your tap water accumulate in the soil. As they accumulate, it gets increasingly difficult for the plant to absorb water and the nutrients dissolved in water. When salt levels get too high, water is actually REMOVED from plant cells by osmosis in the same way that curing salt pulls moisture from ham or bacon. This can cause chlorosis and other symptoms. Diminished photo-intensity can also cause the symptoms that you see. If individual leaves are unable to adapt to low light, the plant absorbs the mobile nutrients from the leaves for reallocation. As the flow of a growth regulator (auxin) through the abscission zone at the base of leaf petioles slows and stops, an abscission layer forms and leaves fall. You could be seeing signs of that as well. Root-bound conditions also tend to cause the loss of lower and interior foliage, often leaving trees with foliage in tufts or pompons on the ends of branches. I'm pretty sure that your tree would be at least marginally affected after 1-1/2 years if you did a full repot (which includes removing all or most of the soil and root pruning), and substantially affected if you only potted up. Dr. Whitcomb (Plant Production in Containers II) has done considerable research into how being rootbound affects growth. He says that a negative effect starts to appear as soon as the root mass will remain intact when you lift the plant from its container. He says that the plant should be immediately bumped at this point. Of course, he is talking about plants that are to be sold, and we cannot continue to bump plants into larger containers w/o root-pruning ans expect no negatives. He said that once a plant becomes root-bound, its growth is permanently impaired, unless you go in and fix the roots. 30-10-10 (I assume that is what you are using) is ok. It acidifies because the urea the N in the fertilizer is derived from acts as an ammonium salt. The N in 24-8-16 by MG or Peters is also derived from urea and will also acidify. The N:P ratio is the same (3:1), but it supplies K in a more favorable ratio to N, so I would make it to be a slightly better choice, It allows you to keep the levels of TDS (total dissolved solids) and EC (electrical conductivity, both, a measure of the soluble salts in the soil solution, at the lowest levels possible w/o creating deficiencies - a good thing. I think if you get your plants into a soil that drains freely and stay on top of light issues and fertilizing (at least every 2 weeks at half strength when the plant is growing well - not so often during periods of high/low temps or while the tree is taking a winter's rest. It's hard to be specific w/o the ability to see the trees, but I hope you found something helpful in what I offered. Take care, D. Al

I have the same thing happening this Year.I am sure it is Blackspot.I have been using a fungicide and it seems to be helping,at least it is getting any worse,and the Bush is looking really healthy apart from the already infected Leaves.