Hi alienbox, Welcome to the addiction! ;-) It does sound like it will make it, especially with such good intentioned care. I would like to add some suggestions to help you out. The light sounds ok, but your Phal would probably be much happier if it were in an East-facing window, if you have one available to you. The problem with a North-facing window is that it doesn't actually get any sun. It may be bright to the naked eye, but your plant may not agree. Forget all that "bright indirect light" crap you read on orchid labels - they're talking to people in Florida. We're in the North (some of us more so than others) and plants need all the light they can get, especially since it's not exactly sunny all the time up here at this time of year. Having said this, if you can move them into more light, do so gradually. Think of it as building a base tan to be able to tolerate more light. You said your plant had not done anything in the time you've had it. All those wild roots that were around it - are they new, do they have green growing tips? That means your plant is happy. First come new roots, then new leaves and then finally flowers. You should also note that these orchids are tropical plants that enjoy warmer temperatures. You'll notice it'll really perk up once the days get longer and your apartment gets warmer. That's likely when you'll start seeing a new leaf. Repotting it was a good idea, but you need to use stuff meant for orchids. The stuff for outside use, which the Mosser stuff sounds like, is treated differently and the size is not quite right for orchids. You can go to any Lowes or HD and buy a bag for less than $10. As tiarella advised, you do need to soak it before you use it. Don't water it again - the reason you need to presoak bark is that the bark has been kiln dried to kill off anything bad. It also repels water in this state, water rolls off of it like off of a duck's back. Pre-soaking and rinsing it a couple of times gives it back its water retentive qualities and gets rid of any dust. I'm kind of concerned about the ceramic pot you're using. Ceramics are glazed not to let any water or air through, and orchids are epiphytes that need air as much as water, as tiarella said. They also rarely have lots of holes in them. Most of us put our plants in plastic pots, then slip them inside a decorative ceramic pot. It makes watering very easy, too. As your plant dries, it will get lighter. This will be really easy to tell if your plant is in a plastic pot rather than a ceramic pot. I've included a culture sheet on Phal's that I think will help too. Best of luck! Julie Here is a link that might be useful: Phalaenopsis Culture Sheet

Terpguy: I don't know. I can tell you how it's growing though. It is on the top usable shelf of my plant shelf, which is in front of an unobstructed south facing window on the third floor. It is fairly close to the window, maybe about 4-5 inches away. The window is covered with a sheer mesh curtain, the cheap kind you get at Ikea. It is growing in a mix of coco fiber, tree fern fiber, and a bit of bark and lava rock (I think that's what it was). The bottom of the board above is lined with aluminum foil to attempt to reflect light downward. It's in a clear orchid pot with side slats, so when it looks dry, I water it. I try not to let it get totally dry, as I read somewhere that it likes to stay moist. It tends to bloom at least a couple times a year for me. I was surprised that it decided to bloom now, as it has been putting on a lot of new growth and I thought it would concentrate on maturing those. Hey, I won't say no to blooms. So, I don't feel like I do anything special. Paph delenatiis don't bloom for me for anything though. At least one tried last year. This year, they didn't even try. I'm clearly doing something wrong. The one has been steadily shrinking too. I did it, I got Pleuro alata and that Lepanthopsis. And of course, I forgot another bloomer, a Phal hybrid with a name I can't remember right now. It's a harlequin with yellow-green petals and burgundy spots, blooming since Januaryish. I'm keeping my eye on my Cattleya luteola, which has two buds getting steadily bigger and fatter. Exciting! Calvin, I can't really help with any tips on C. luteola. Like I said, I thought it hated me. It's about 5 inches away from an 85W CFL, and it kept growing too close to the light and burning off its leaves. So I'd get new growth, then lose it. Although I guess the pbulbs stuck around. That is what is spiking now, a leafless pbulb.

The reason I wanted to know where you live (state) is that culture instructions vary widely according to where you are. Sorry to say that i think the plant roots are in such a bad condition that it is doubtful if the plant can be saved or if it is saved the process could take ages before you see another flower. The plant needs temperatures in the 60 to 90F range. Good bright light or sunlight filtered by shade-cloth. A coarse well drained potting mix if you like to water often or a finer mix if you can stay your watering hand. Drainage must be perfect so that the roots can dry between waterings. Doesn't need filtered water, most water from the "tap" is fine. Fertilise more often in the warmer months with a complete fertilizer with trace elements. Forget about this humidity stuff. The current humidity reading in this room where I'm growing Phals. on a windowsill is 46%. Find some complete culture notes written for the Pacific North West and maybe buy a new plant.

Hi Littlem Stay in there. As long as you have not over watered you will be ok. I have 7 cuttings. Thought most were going to leaf.. but only one has, two now high claws. . the rest get a wet look, thought were, looked at the bottom of the stalk, nothing. sooo still a waiting game. Been over 2 months. We are in the 80's not there I guess. I have only one really leafing out..first , am excited. I was hoping to beat Philip, but darn, he got warm on me. soo booo.. ha We planted cutting about the same time, he got really warm. so hopefully yours will be ok. Feb, depends on how cool you were, I was chilly then. My plumeria in the ground and in rooted pots some are very slow. karen