WANTED: Elderberry cuttings
Dani74
9 years ago
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plantwhisper
9 years agoRelated Discussions
WANTED: wanted-Bob Gordon, Wyldewood elderberry cuttings
Comments (1)Hi JesseSt, Welcome to Garden Web! Please see the link below to get set up for trading. Scroll to the bottom and check the box Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site. I'd also suggest using the dropdown box setting of Show my email address to: and choosing Members. Your email addy will not be displayed on the forums, but will be shown to only members via the GW email form, which is often either slow or unreliable. hth chemocurl...aka Sue Here is a link that might be useful: Profile update...See MoreWANTED: Elderberry Cuttings
Comments (1)Hi, you can have as many as you want as they are everywhere here. I'll see if I can get you some already rooted as well. No trade necessary. Send me a message if you still need them. Rena'...See Morewild elderberry cuttings
Comments (8)Oh man! I almost forgot this thread. I was at work and had typed a long description of how I treat elderberry cuttings, and somehow it vanished when I hit 'send'. I was too frustrated to write it a second time. ;o) Take several hardwood (wood from last year) 5-6 node cuttings after leaves fall and bundle them so the proximal ends (ends that were closest to the roots) are together. You can cut the proximal ends at a 45* angle and the distal ends at 90*, so you can tell them apart, but don't forget which is which. Bury the cuttings proximal end up in a full sun area of your garden/beds that gets good drainage, so the end is covered by 3" of soil. Be sure to mark them so you can find them in spring. The ends will form callus. The warmth from the sun in the spring will stimulate root primordia (the beginning of roots) or actual roots, while the cool temperatures deeper in the soil will inhibit bud movement. When elderberries in the landscape are starting to leaf out, dig up the bundle and reorient them so the distal end is up and at least three nodes are buried and 1-2 nodes are above ground. Be sure any roots that have formed don't dry out. The ground is cold enough at this time that fungal issues are not a problem. The proximal end up warms the rooting end, which promotes rapid callusing & gets roots growing. The cooler temps deeper in the soil keeps the shoots from developing until roots have formed, which is when you'll be digging them up & planting or potting them. I do a lot of temperate trees this way, and a few years back, I did it 2 years in a row with a half dozen cuttings of Sambucus nigra 'laciniata', the EB with black cut-leaf foliage everyone thinks is a Japanese maple. They all struck. Al...See MoreRooting elderberry cuttings.
Comments (5)No, I was talking about your rooted cuttings. I agree with xentar that those look like water roots. The cuttings that you are trying to start in water might be better off started in soil. The water roots don't transplant easily. You have to persist with cuttings. Often they get leaves before roots. I have also had them loose all their leaves and look like they died, only to have them start a new batch of leaves once they root. I don't give up on them until they are crispy critters. I just had a willow, which has been a leafless green stick for 6 months, decide to produce some leaves. Because it didn't snap in half like a toothpick when touched, I just kept watering it and taking care of it. If you want to start those wild cuttings in water, move them into soil the second you see roots appear. Good luck with it....See MoreOnell Jones
9 years agosewnmom7
9 years agobemonkey Zone 7 South New Jersey
9 years agosewnmom7
9 years agosewnmom7
9 years agobemonkey Zone 7 South New Jersey
9 years agosewnmom7
9 years agobemonkey Zone 7 South New Jersey
9 years agobemonkey Zone 7 South New Jersey
9 years ago
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