If it were me, I would use as little peatmoss as possible and no compost at all..This is the reason why plants would decline in such a short time in these soils, unless you can repot every other month or so, before the compaction occurs. I would buy a "farfard" mix with more bark than peat. I would find a way to strain out most peat moss from any bagged mix and use the left over bark, perlite and very lttle peat. I would make my own of course, which is what I always do. Or, if you do not want to do all this work, you could mix half and half soil mix and perlite, and hope your mix does not hold water too long and compact just to get you to square one.. Your goal is to use a mix that holds its structure and allows the roots to move and breath as long as possible. It is to use a very course mix, porous and one that drains well. I would also fertilize with a water soluable fertilizer with the major and minor nutrients, or use Foiliage Pro what is what I use.. If you use an organic mix, watch for "fungus gnats", soil compaction which can suffocate roots quickly which causes decline. Watch for spider mites or others pest that like weaked plants, and watch for root rot. You could avoid the root rot from over watering, by placing the plant in a pot just big enough for the roots, but then too it can stunt the growth of your plant by keeping it root bound.. pebbles on the bottom are better left out. They impeded draining and only take up room in the pot. better is it to have more than a couple holes on the bottom of your containers for great drainage.. Mike..:-)

Not sure if you mean an all-in-one type unit, but if not take a look at the Kohler Mayflower tub. Its not too large and functions well as a shower. We tiled the walls behind and had doors made for it. The layout worked so well that we will be recreating it for one of the bathrooms in the house we will be building.

Can you put in a shortened version of your pendent so the light is more like a flushmount fixture? I have a small older home and I have cans (because I have almost no uppers to put in undercab lights), a flush ceiling fixture, a chandelier and several shortened pendants. We were worried about it looking cluttered but all the fixtures are from the same line so even though they aren't identical, they tie to each other and it looks normal and not hodgepodge. The sconces might work but if they are not at a 5' wall height, they could look out of place. If you do put a flushmount fixture, make sure it clears any cabinet doors that open. I would also try the old house forum here as well.

I have large windows on two sides - east and south. If it is sunny I do get a lot of light in winter during the the day. So that is a good thing. Problem comes around March when the Sun is moving higher (steeper really) in the sky and the amount of light getting in actually gets less - just when the plants want to push new growth. I try to compensate that with increased duration of light . This also when bugs start to wake up with all the new growth to feed on. So I have to be careful and keep a watch out for bugs. It is also the time when temperature inside porch climbs upwards and I have to make sure it does not get too hot either.