hi hard to tell.. but it looks telephone poled.. probably planted too deep .... unless the mulch is hiding such ... strike one ... and you are right.. probably dont here that often enough .... the hated willow is probably sucking the water you should be giving to the conifer ... i dont know if you can save it.. but increase water to that plant.. but insure you do it properly.. water deeply thru its root zone .... and check with your finger repeatedly on that plant... to insure it gets enough to start competing ... whether or not that one can be saved.. i dont know .... i had a willow at the old house.. about 8 feet DIAMETER ... nothing under the canopy .. could compete.. in fact it was near impossible to get a shovel in the soil ... ken

I would think it would depend upon how large the tree is; how large the container is; and what material the container is made of. Hopefully, your container is not terra cotta or ceramic as both of those are cooking utensil materials. If your container is wood, foam or concrete, these insulate the soil/root ball much more efficiently than many other materials. Other, less efficient insulators can be improved by wrapping their interiors with either several layers of bubble wrap or thin sheets of styro foam. You'll effectively be insulating them as you do your roof and house walls, creating an "ice chest" out of them. The air layers created by the wrapping material will help prevent the heat transfer from the pot sides to the soil ball and roots. How root bound the tree is plays a significant part, too. The more soil you have between the roots and pot sides, the better the crown and roots of the tree are insulated. Soil can be an excellent insulator, but root material pressed right against the pot interior absorb the heat from the pot material, literally cooking them. The larger the pot, the longer it takes for that heat to be transmitted all the way through the soil ball, too. I think when the highest heat hits, if you can shade the pot to prevent it from cooking from direct sun, the tree should make it OK with appropriate water. I would definitely wash the upper parts of it when I water to rinse out the dust and debris and reduce any chances of spider mites which can stress the tree, reducing its chances. Water on the foliage and limbs can also help rehydrate the plant. I can't suggest how frequently you should water nor rinse out the tree, but I would do it in the evening so chances of being burned by sun are reduced. Once the worst of the heat passes, as long as the potted tree seems fine where it's grown, you should be able to move it back to its former position. I wouldn't shade the foliage of the tree. Though it will tolerate quite a bit of shade, growing much more slowly in reduced light, it will alter the ability to tolerate more intense, direct sun, so you'll need to gradually harden it off to the hotter, brighter sun. That can be more difficult than just shading the pot from the direct sun, and may easily result in foliage burn. Though your conditions are significantly more severe than mine here in Los Angeles, the issue of overheating the potted root ball and gradually acclimating shaded foliage to brighter, more direct sun, are common in any hotter area. I hope it helps. Kim

Am I dealing with a disease, or just the consequence of being a newbie to the whole heirloom and "start from seed" world of gardening? Most likely not a disease unless it is early signs of damp-off and that usually affects the seedlings at the soil line/stem intersection. You may wish to review the FAQ on it over on the Growing from Seed forum as well as the FAQ here that I linked below for more details. I agree you should stop the fertilizer as I fear they are suffering from fertilizer burn. Seedlings require no feeding, indeed don't tolerate it at all well, until after at least the second set of true leaves develop and sometimes not even then depending on the seed starting mix you usedor that you transplant them into. And when you do feed them use only 1/4 to 1/2 strength mixtures - never full strength - regardless of the type you use. As someone said the other day, it like feeding a newborn baby a supreme pizza with extra onions. ;) I also find that misting of seedlings to be potentially hazardous unless you are also providing adequate and active air circulation in the area. it is one of the main contributors to damp-off, mold, and fungus problems. Your plants may bounce back with the elimination of the fertilizer etc. But the plants need the cotyledons to survive until they can develop true leaves, so if the damage done is already well along yours may not survive. You may want to consider starting some new seeds while there is time. Good luck. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Tomatoes from Seed

Hi, looks to me like a nitrogen deficiency. Probably a little low on magnesium too. You'd better give them some more fertilizer and a shot of Epsom Salts. About a tablespoon of Epsom per gallon of water and mix in your miracle gro. Give them a couple of days to recover - it doesn't happen overnight. You don't seem to have a disease at all. Best of luck.