Thanks, Yardvaark. That is a good system for when you're home, and is merited if you have a big plant investment (whether in big plants or lots of small ones). And what a coincidence - I've actually been looking for something just like that to help catch someone stealing my newspaper quite regularly, but had only seen the more expensive version I've linked below. Maybe this one has a longer range, but with a 20' front yard, I don't need it :-) Currently I have a webcam set up which works for images but not for intercepting, should I wish to do so. Anyway, I have no quibble with the merit of the plant information in what you propose. But tied to addresses... shouldn't happen. It may, but it shouldn't. There are so many downsides. Imagine you buy a house with a huge whatever that is revered all over the world, and you want to remove it to do something else. The Occupy movement might come to your front yard! Drtygrl... there's an idea for my new screen name... "silver_lining" I've hated the one I have ever since Garden Web eliminated capital letters and it looks like I've put a #1 after my name, necessitating the correction of a signature :-) Someday I'll change it but the longer I stick with this one, the harder it gets! Karin L Here is a link that might be useful: a more expensive version

If you are going to be in the Philadelphia area and have the time to stay a couple extra days, may I suggest a small excursion to the suburbs to see Longwood Gardens. It's acres of gardens under glass; a perfect way to experience a little summer in March. http://www.longwoodgardens.org/ If you want to clear your palate with something non-gardening, there is also the Brandywine museum with its focus on the Wyath generational art..Just right for an art museum - packed with pleasure, but not overwhelming. http://www.brandywinemuseum.org/collect.html#Wyeths And if you call ahead, you might be able to take a tour of Chadd's Ford winery and see what goes into making a good glass of wine. http://www.chaddsford.com/root/home/index.htm All three of the places mentioned above are within a few miles of each other.

Well said, Bob. I've been part of the MHS as member and Master Gardener for 5 years, and have given hundreds of hours of service, both at Elm Bank ( which has improved dramatically in the last two years, especially) in hort activities, the NE Flower Show, and in the business offices, and have seen the effort that goes into managing an organization that extensive with, at times, not as much staff as you might think. I love the flower show, and I enjoy my MHS membership. Tickets and Horticulture are pretty much covered by your membership fee, the chance for early entry, especially on the first weekend when everything is amazingly pristine, would be a big plus for me (although my MG shift starts at 6 am), and the information via newsletters and mailings about symposia and individual classes that is delivered to you gives you many more opportunities to expand your garden knowledge. Besides, it's sort of like Christmas to get those tickets in the mail when you've pretty much forgotten that you have the membership. Not everything goes smoothly in every large organization, but MassHort is, as Bob said, committed to its mission of hort education. As for Philadelphia- been there-liked it. Better? That would be my personal opinion, which might not be yours. Every year is a new opportunity. For the last 4 years, at least one person has taken the time to come up to the MG booth to say that he or she had been to Philadelphia, and New England was better. As the saying goes "You pay your money and you take your chance". Whatever your choice is, take pleasure in your garden, and come and see ours at Elm Bank and the NE Flower Show in 2008. Happy gardening to all.

Larry I will post some information from the Ronniger's site where I buy my seed potatoes. I will also add the link to their site. They have very good information on how to grow them. I think this will answer all of your questions better than I can. But if you have any more just ask them. I will say I doubt if hilling no would be beneficial in my opinion. Jay Page 5 Cutting Seed Potatoes l Cutting Seed Potatoes All tubers the size of a hen's egg (1-3 oz.) may be planted whole. For larger tubers, cut the potato using a clean, sharp knife so that each piece will contain 1 or more eyes. Pieces should be cut with plenty of flesh around the eyes, since the plant will utilize this stored food during the first 2 or 3 weeks of growth. If the variety has many eyes, try for two or more eyes on each piece. This provides opportunity for more vines to grow and thus yield more potatoes. Seeds may be planted immediately after cutting if you have good control of soil moisture. If theres a chance the soil may be too wet for a long period of time, youÂll want to allow the cut pieces to dry out prior to planting. Spread them out on a table in the shade or one layer deep in shallow boxes for drying. Avoid shriveling which may weaken the seed piece. Also rec- ommended for wet soil conditions is the application of sulfur or Fir bark dust to the freshly cut pieces. Place 1 or more table spoons in a large paper bag, and toss the pieces around to cover them with dust. This may guard against threat of infection by bacteria and fungus in wetter soil. If you are able to plant cut seed successfully, then there's no reason to go through the extra steps of drying and dusting. Planting The rule of thumb to follow, for the earliest planting time, is to plant 2 weeks before your last spring frost. Then of course,you can plant anytime after that, giving yourself at least 3 months growing season before a major fall frost. Some growers plant later than this for better growing temperatures. Check with the locals. A good beginning soil temperature to plant in is 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The width between rows is determined by the size of your garden and method of cultivation. Farmers need 30" -36" be- tween rows, while gardeners can get by with 20" -26". You might adjust your spacing to suit adverse conditions. Wider spacing can help alleviate stress due to drought or poor soil. Tighter spacing may give you a uniform canopy of foliage to cool the soil in summer. Dig a shallow trench about 6" - 8" deep. Plant your seed potatoes about 12" apart. Using a rake, cover the seed pieces immediately after planting. Do not cover too deep, 4" maxi- mum, and leave the remaining soil for later. Hilling In approximately two weeks, depending on soil temperature, green leaves will emerge. When the plants have grown to about 8" high, gently hill with soil brought up from both sides of the plant using a dull hoe. Bring the soil up about 3" inches leaving 4" - 6" of the plant exposed. Hilling cools the soil and creates space for tuber development. All tubers will form at the same depth of the seed piece and higher. Another hilling of 1 to 2" is beneficial 2 - 3 weeks later. Keep the blade of your hoe well away from the plants so you do not damage the roots. If you see potatoes poking out of the hills, add more soil to cover them. Potato Growers Guide Hilling is crucial to establishing your crop. By gradually building an ever-larger hill of soil around the plant, you are building the site for your potatoes to develop. Give them plenty of room between rows and build your hills wide and ample to produce your bumper crop. Raised Bed Method Make your raised bed at least 12" deep and fill with soil. Plant seed potatoes 6" deep and cover to the top. If you are crowded, space them 8" - 10" apart in rows 20" apart. If you have room, plant 12" apart in rows 24" - 30" apart. Cover to the top. If you live in a wet climate, only cover to 4" deep so that the potatoes can get a quicker start. Then cover to the top later when the plants are tall enough. Mulch Alternative Method The Mulch Method is a good alternative if your soil is shal- low, rocky or compact; if youÂre planting in the heat of sum- mer, or have problems with scab in your soil. The best mulch to use is loose, seed-free hay or straw. Leaves and dried grass clip- pings can be used. It is important to have plenty on hand. Prepare your seed bed. Plant the seed pieces. They can be placed on the surface or lightly trenched, spaced as usual. Loosely shake mulch over the bed, 6" - 10" deep. As the plants grow, continue to add more loose straw, as if hilling. Be sure you keep the tubers well covered so that sunlight doesnÂt get to them and turn them green. The mulching method provides ex- cellent weed and moisture control and reduces stress due to heat. At harvest, pull back mulch. Your nest of potatoes will be clean, uniform and easy to harvest. Cage Method Alternative Grow potatoes in vertical boxes, cribs, barrels or wire cages. Set your cage on prepared soil. Plant strong seed pieces 6" - 8" apart and cover lightly with 4" of soil. When the plant emerges and grows, begin adding mellow compost, mulch or soil always leaving at lest 6 inches of plant exposed. Continue this process until the plants stop their upward progress and/or blossom. Then let them finish out their growing season providing them with plenty of water. As the plant stems lengthen, so do the length and number of underground stolons, which are what produce the potato tubers. More potatoes form in less space and the yield is increased 2 or 3 times. This is a great way to grow a lot of potatoes with limited garden spac Potatoes need about 1" - 2" of water per week. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not too wet, from the time of emergence until then end of the season. Try not to let the soil completely dry out as this will cause sudden re-growth when watered, giving your tubers ears and noses, splits, or hollow heart. Each time you water, let it soak down 8" to 12". A few thorough waterings,along with your efforts at hilling or mulching will be an adequate program to conserve soil moisture. Come up with a schedule, every three days or so, to check the soil moisture down at the roots.