It may yet reward you with a nice plant, keep it in clean water for now till the roots grow past the stem anyway. Try to keep it 70 degrees or higher if you can. Keep checking it. The leaves at their base look healthy. Fred when Rooted the tops in Florida (so long ago now), I cut the top row of fruit off and plunked it down in the water. The fruit always rotted away, you had to change the putrid water every day, which usually was so bad it would start to foam slightly. That is the way you did it back then, of course it was always 80 degrees or higher with 80% humidity. But it worked! The only trouble I ever had was with the dratted squirrels eating chunks out of the ripening fruit! 3 years of waiting and then some scurvy grey squirrel eats the very first spot to ripen and the whole fruit then rots!

Trying to propagate a rose using the air propagation method. When should I cut and plant the propagated segment? propagation roses I have had one of those plastic balls attached to a climbing rose since May this year Is it now a good time to cut the segment and plant it in the ground ?

I see Michael Dirr is promoting a recently discovered cultivar with red new growth but don't know if it is in the trade yet.. The older P. serratifolia I'm going to attempt to clone is not like Green Giant or any other serratifolia cultivar that I've seen. With sun they normally grow into trees and are covered with heavy spring blooms.. This specimen is 50+yrs old and approx. 15-20 ft tall X 15-20 ft wide, has very dark green, drooping, markedly serrated leaves, the leaves are slightly larger than other examples at 4-7inches, flowering is sparse, . The new growth flush is impressive, lighter green leaves emerge with red stems, there is the occasional red leaf. (see picture below) Granted it is growing under mature willow oaks in open light-shade that may reduce flowering but gets more than enough sun to show it's full growth potential. I suspect it may be a new variety, possibly a multi-stem dwarf as it apparently never tried to take on a 'tree form and hasn't exceeded 20 ft in more than 50 years. Also it has proven disease resistance as a short distance away an entire planting of P. fraseri were wiped out by leaf spot. I hope the propagation goes as smoothly as you suggest,

@Gawdinfever Z6 I honestly don't know what type of fine bark I'm using. I get it from a local supplier, I'll have to ask them. I'll post a pic of the material tomorrow. I'm in the pacific northwest so most likely some kind of fir or cedar. I've been incorporating their fine bark ( which is 1/4 inch and smaller) along with their medium bark (1 inch and smaller) into my potting soil. I got the idea of using fine bark from a youtube video. The gist was to use any inert material as that reduces the chance of cuttings rotting before they root. It's always a race to root before rot. :o) This year I've rooted over 300 different cuttings. Roses, clematis, euonymous, physocarpus, cornus, lonicera, blueberry, hydrangea, pieris japonica. I also tried some maples, but no success with those this year, last year a few rooted and are growing on. I've been using both a powder, hormodin 1, and a liquid Dip & Gro. I wish I'd tracked which and when to see which was more effective, but this year was a bit here and there. Next year I'll keep better notes. Editing to add what prompted this post. I have 40 or so cuttings in the process of rooting, but I'm finding at this time if year they are not producing any or very good roots. So I was wondering what other people propagate during the colder months.