Honestly, it seems like you're telling me more than you're asking me. I'll leave you to your ideas about the soil, which I don't agree with, but that's neither here nor there. Did you take time to read either of the threads I linked you to? All potted trees need root pruning on a regular basis if they are to be allowed the opportunity to grow at or near their potential, within the influence of other factors that can limit growth/vitality. Al

Your mix should work fine- all mixes loose drainage capacity over time but coconut fiber is probably about as good as anything to help drainage short term. One nice thing about using sand is that it doesn't break down but it's down side is its weight, unless you're trying to prevent blow-over. Sometimes people mean by manure, cow manure, sometimes they mean horse stable waste. Horse stable waste usually has lots of pine shavings in it which will help keep soil loose until it breaks down.

so should I get 3" or the 5" pots? I have about 20 plants to transplant right now. 4" pots are the standard for many growers but with only 20 plants just buy 16 oz. plastic drink cups and put drain holes in the bottoms. And if they are just coming out of the starter tray they could even go into just 8 oz. cups. I was told by someone that I could still use the soil for my seedlings and my new raised beds I plan to build. For your raised beds yes but not for your seedlings. Only use potting/container mix for them, not garden dirt. It compacts too much and doesn't drain well enough in a small container. The landlord says I have to get rid of this existing bed...he deemed it dangerous and an eyesore! Can I treat the soil somehow? It may be an eyesore but it isn't "dangerous". All the pests you list are normal "squatters" in an inactive bed and will leave as the bed is disturbed. If you want to use it just till it up. But there is no reason you can't build your raised beds and move at least some of that dirt to fill them. But yes you will need to add fresh compost too. Shoot for at least 1/3 new stuff in the new beds. Enjoy your garden. Dave

oracleofmn: How bad is the clay? If it drains decent enough, you should be ok. Prunus will not tolerate standing water or poorly drained sites well. What part of MN are you in? Just asking as Montmorency is not as cold hardy as some other varieties so might be best only in SE MN or in a protected site. I recall a friend trying to grow that variety near Sleepy Eye, MN as his wife came from cherry country in Door County WI where Montmorency is planted heavily. They had trouble with winter hardiness on Montmorency. You may want to try Mesabi. I have that in my orchard in WI and it has fairly large fruit and yellow fleshed. Nice flavor. The yield is not as high as Montmorency however. If you like tart cherries that have a dark flesh and much stronger cherry flavor try North Star or Sweet Cherry Pie (originated near River Falls, WI. Evans is really hardy too! Sweet Cherry Pie has perhaps the highest yield as a friend of mine grows them in Western WI at his U-pick orchard. He has tried them all (including Balaton) and his favorite is Sweet Cherry Pie for high yields. 50 cherry trees? Wow. I have 3 trees and we get all the fruit we need for 2 families to share. I once lived in Lake City MN for 8 years so somewhat familiar with the Minnesota climate (mighty cold winters).