Grub - Plastic stakes

20 years ago

I noticed your post on another thread which is quite long so starting this as a new one. Plastic Stakes can be bought online from the following link.

Here is a link that might be useful: Plastic Stakes

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Comments (5)

The_Grub
20 years ago
Thanks Cosmic,
That's really kind of you to go to the trouble of posting the link. Now, I might be seen as difficult, but the longest stake they have is a six footer or 1800mm number. By the time I bash it into the soil the top will come up to my chin. And within a month or two the tommys will have hit the top.

I suppose I could drill and bolt some together? I'll call them and see if they will do 8-footers or 10-footers, which I could still reach standing on a milk crate.

Thanks for your help :)Grub.
Raymondo
20 years ago
Ignore him Linda.
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If you planted them as a clump, you may put stakes around perimeter and tie a twine to make a circle. If you planted them as a row, you need to place stake at the beginning and the end of the row and a few in between (depending on a lenghts of your row) and tie a twine all around. It doesn't make sense to stake individual flowers. You would need to do staking when they'll be 18-24" tall depending on variety and move twine up as they grow. In your zone 10 they will live for many years without digging and replanting, so if it would be me, I'd plant them as deep as 10-12", not a 6". Deep planting helps to either completely eliminate or just reduce to ocassional staking of individual plants for shorter varieties (up to 30" tall). 36 to 48" tall varieties probably would need staking anyway.
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Oh my goodness, your gardens are so beautiful Dave. I love your Picea pungens Glauca 'Pendula'. I love the steely blue coloring and the gorgeous mishapen form. I HAVE to get that one. At what height did you stake that one? I wish I had been more diligent while my plants where smaller in getting them staked up. OH well, I will be on that like no tomorrow for any that I place in my gardens in the future. Dax, the photo was taken in a garden in Iowa but not Gary's. Did you ever happen to see his friend Dianne's gardens? Gary did all the hardscaping and helps her plant all her trees and chooses the spots for them. If you have not seen her garden it is a MUST see. I happened to be there when they first began putting her gardens in and then last summer I walked through it again. What an amazing transformation. She has the ability to purchase fairly large trees and those trees have put on growth making them look like full grown trees already. I wish I could afford to do that. I but puny little 1 or 2 year grafted trees and wait YEARS to see growth...if they even survive at that. LOL I'm hoping I get the chance to get out there again this summer. We shall see if it works out. I think instead we are planning to go to Sparta, Illinois this summer. UGH! Sadly, that is out in the middle of nowhere and I won't get my plant shopping fix.
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There are several members of the Scarab Beetle family, japanese Beetles are one, that lay eggs in the soil that become these "C" shaped grubs we are all taught to hate with a passion. Research at several universities has found that if the population of the grubs is around 10 per square foot you can have a problem but that fewer then 5 per square foot are not. The adult beetles lay the eggs in July and August and they hatch and are then very susceptible to Milky Spore Disease, "Bacillus popilleae" which they must ingest as they feed. As the soil cools these grubs will move down further into the soil for the winter and they stop feeding, but in the spring, as the soil warms, they come back toward the surface to feed for a short time before they pupate to become the adult beeltes. Milky Spore Disease is effective, for a short time during the early stages of these grubs life, shortly after they hatch so it should be applied in early August, at the latest. Milky Spore Disease is also a very passive means of control. You put it down and then hope the grubs find it and ingest it, which is why those that need immediate gratification find it not vey effective. Beneficial nematodes, which eat the grubs can be applied about the same time or a little later. GrubX is not an acceptable organic solution because it is a broad spectrum poison that will kill many of the soil insects, both beneficial and harmful.
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The_Grub
20 years ago
You can't get rid of me that easily. I'm thinking of visiting the hardware building supplies for lengths of aluminium angle, with holes along them to hold ties, that I can cut to 10ft and use year after year.

Anyone caging this season? Haven't done that yet.

Ray,
I havent' seen a complete list of everything you're growing yet. How's the weather out west now? Seem to be some good spring rains this year.
cosmicgardener
Original Author
20 years ago
I'm off to Bunnings for a cultivator for our 46th wedding anniversary present to each other; the one in Launceston has just redone their garden section, so I'll make some enquiries. So 10 foot would build a tomato room eh?

Linda
paradisi
20 years ago
have you tried star pickets with poly conduit over the top - the conduit can be any length you want and if its long enough can be bent from one star picket to another and forms an arch - a couple of arches and you have a tunnel - big enough for anything you want to grow in under or over.....;-)

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Grub - Plastic stakes

Comments (5)

The_Grub

Raymondo

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The_Grub

cosmicgardener
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paradisi

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Grub - Plastic stakes

Comments (5)

The_Grub

Raymondo

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The_Grub

cosmicgardenerOriginal Author

paradisi

COMPANY

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cosmicgardener
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