Thanks EG! It doesn't seem like a lot, but I figured why not try a little of the plants I REALLY like :-) As I said, the drip irrigation system worked really well and when I expand the garden next year, I plan on expanding that also. Although not as 'elegant' as the EB AWS or Raybo's, the water timer helps with the overflow since it only allows water to enter for about 15 mins 2 times per day. I thought about the nutrient leaching and so I did exactly what you suggested by placing the drip hose directly into the fill tube. The fertilizing...especially over the long-term, was problematic for me mostly because I really didn't think it through enough. The mix I add to the soil at the beginning of the season got the plants off to a great, sturdy start, but about half way through it, I knew I was in trouble. I'm thinking about burying a small, covered container at the same time I plant the veggies. Then about half way into the season, I'll push aside the large bulk mulch, remove the cover (which will be at ground level), place in a mixture of potting mix and another batch of fertilizer and then see what happens. I'm not sure it will work, but I much prefer adding the fertilizer to the soil rather than top-down watering. And since minerals are heavier than water, I don't think that a completely soluble fertilizer will give the plants all the extra nutrients they need as they head into their fruit production. The 'natural' fertilizer formula included in Ed Smith's book was a CRF so that may be all I need (in addition to the extra lime.) What do you think? Donna H.

Hi Ray & all, Sown today with thanks to Patrina: Cherokee Chocolate Cherokee Green Earl's Faux Eckert Polish Jaune Negib Little Lucky Lucky Cross Marianna's Peace Santorini Turkey Chomp And the following thanks to Raymondo: Fritsche Paragon Regina's Yellow Also regrowing the following from last year: Anna Russian Black Krim Cherokee Purple Hawaiian Pineapple Hillbilly I'd like to swap/trade/buy 5/10 seeds of the following if anyone has any to spare: Brandywine Sudduth's Burracker's Favourite Mark

Mantis, I did read that Mac are going with a new common brain or something. Now abut those Russian Reds. I have some nice ones up in the seed tray. Maybe 5/5. I think seeds came from Rosco. Anyway, it sounds like a nice little determinate, right? About a 4-5 footer. Have you gorwn it and if so does it need a stake. Something in the grey matter says tree tybe and sturdy. If that is so I'll plant 5/5 in pots.:)

Hi Linda, Haven't heard of Tasmanian Cream. There is one called Tasmanian Yellow, perhaps it's that under a different name. The regular leaf foliage (the typical serrated edge) is dominant meaning that if you cross a regular leaf plant with a potato leaf plant, for example, the first generation offspring will all be regular leaf. In the second generation you'll get roughly 3/4 regular leaf and 1/4 potato leaf etc, etc. There's really no way to tell a hybrid from any other tomato. Hybrids are the first generation (referred to as F1) after a cross and will usually be pretty uniform. If you planted enough seeds saved from a hybrid (you're into the second generation or F2) it is there that you may start to see differences. Before the discoveries of Mendel became well-known, plant breeding consisted of selecting for desired characteristics. Once people realised they could cross pollinate deliberately, plant breeding took off. Sadly, those forms of plant breeding are all but dead or dying as genetic manipulation takes a strangle hold.