I got seed from an acquaintance in Hawaii. Contact growers in Hawaii and Florida - possibly some in CA as well - to see if they will ship you seed. There are restrictions on where/how seed can be shipped because of citrus disease - if you are in a citrus growing state, look for seed locally as M. koenigii is a citrus and is likely grown in any state where other citrus are grown. My seed arrived already cleaned of the fruit pulp, and in moist peat moss to keep it from drying out. Dried out seed is unlikely to grow, it is very fragile and short-lived. I planted my seed in 2" starter paks (2" diameter, not depth). These need to be kept warm and moist, but not wet. Use a seed mat if possible set at 81 to 82F - they like 80F but most seed mats come with controllers that shut off within 3 F of the target temp - so my seed mat was turning off at 77F. I never saw it shut off too late, but it often shut off too early. If you have a herp controller, those are MUCH more accurate and you can just set it at 80F. ALL of my seed eventually germinated. Germination was faster while bottom heat was applied. You should probably remove the plant from the bottom heat soon after it sprouts - so use smaller paks, like 4 cells, or even individual pots. I ended up cutting my starter paks up because they were full-flat paks, with something over 30 cells. Beyond that, I can't say how to best care for your seedlings. I'm still learning. I tried putting them in a gritty mix and a modified gritty mix - the modified gritty mix took longer to fail than the gritty, but it did eventually fail, despite all sorts of contortions (and with the help of a local soil scientist) trying to correct for pH and trying to find a way to water the gritty that didn't leave dry streaks through the medium. The only plants that did really well were those planted in the usual peat blends. Between the watering problems (I had to float my gritty pots to get them thoroughly watered, and they dried out FAR too fast in my arid environment) and pH induced fertility problems - foliar feeding with Foliage Pro did NOT counteract these issues - gritty and gritty-ish were both ultimately unsuitable for these plants. They were particularly troubled by iron deficiency problems, despite regular application (for half the plants) of iron. This made very little difference because it just runs out of the gritty mix. Foliar feeding of iron solution also did not make a noticeable difference. So I suggest sticking to a good bagged potting mix, or a good peat blend once your seedlings have sprouted. A palm blend and a palm or citrus fertilizer is probably best. Watch for iron deficiency - M. koenigii is a heavier than usual user of iron.

I NEED HELP/ADVISE HOW TO GET CURRY LEAVES FROM BY CURRY LEAF PLANT WITH TWO BROWN STICKS ABOUT 36 INCHES LONG, AND ONE 24 INCHES LONG I STARTED KEEPING PLANT OUTSIDE FROM APRIL 5TH, 2012 ONWARDS. BEFORE THEY WERE INDOORS FROM OCTOBER 2011 I DID NOT WATER CURRY LEAF PLANT UNTIL 5TH APRIL 2012 AS OF TODAY JUNE 6TH, NO LEAVES HV COME, NOT EVEN GREEN BUDS I HV CHANGED POTTING SOIL WITH FERTILIZER IN IT ABOUT 5 WEEKS AGO. NO RESULTS YET I WATER IT MIN. ONCE A WEEK I USE MIRACLE GRO ONCE EVERY 2 WEEKS PLS ADVISE WHAT SHUD I DO TO GET CURRY LEAF PLANT STARTS GROWING AGAIN OUR DAY TIME TEMP ARE AROUND 75 TO 80 DEGREE F IN JUNE IS MY CURREY LEAF PLANT DEAD? I HOPE NOT IT WAS GROWING LAST YEAR SHUD I WATER MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK? PLS HELP/ADVISE ME SOON THNKS SHIV NORTHERN NEW JERSEY, USA e-mail:sardacss@gmail.com 6-6-12

Can any one please tell where I can get Murraya koenigi seeds or seedlings in the UK preferably London? Many thanks

Manzanitacrow, you can try posing in the plant exchange forum to request a seedling. I got my seedling from a coworker. He told me that there are tons of seedlings around his mother plant. The unfortunate thing is that my plant does not seem to grow at all. I transplanted it in the ground and it still has not done much for the whole summer. I have to soon dig it up and overwinter in the house in a pot.