Are these granite cobbles that are like little loafs of bread? They are heavily used as driveway aprons and edging in New England.It amazes me that they can ship this stuff from the other side of the world and it costs less than about any other stone. One thing to consider when selecting stone as a surface is furniture. Another is ease of walking. There is nothing worse then a wobbly table or having some of those spiked healed beauties getting injured and changing the mood of the party. Another thing that can get pretty annoying is pushing a snow shovel and having it stop short while you are at full speed. Also, small stones tend to roll around more easily than larger flatter ones. Consider how likely there is to be bare foot activity as well. Some stone gets very hot and catching an edge in bare feet is no fun either.

1) it'll be grouted with unsanded grout, the same as any other stone with tight joints. The difference will be in setting the tiles. There will be no room for error whatsoever when setting those tiles. Expect to pay a premium price for the labor. 2) it's just a matter of making sure the tiles stay sealed. A couple of coats of penetrating sealer (or stone enhancer) when it's first installed, and then maybe a coat every other year or so, depending on how often the bathroom is used, or cleaned. As for cleaning, a ph neutral cleaner meant specifically for stone should be used.

I realized after I posted that I just added more issues to think about; but you are correct there are tons of info and misinfo out there about floors in general. Nail polish remover is acetone, and what you removed was probably old-fashioned varnish which I think is soluble in acetone. I'm not sure acetone dissolves shellac - alcohol does that. It's not un common to have multiple different types of old finishes, for various reasons, (You might try some denatured alcohol, or vodka. I use grain alcohol which is the nuts, though sometimes hard to obtain because of laws trying to prevent people from misusing it. I actually have to leave NY and buy mine in VT, by preorder from a State source.) The cracks you see in August (and still now) are likely the narrow ones! Wait until late March rolls around after a full winter of heating. I can lose Bic pens in some of mine. That's when they are easiest to clean out, though. I wouldn't try anything other than emergency washing until the cracks are clean as there is no point moistening that junk in there. It's important that at the end of the season that the gaps are clean as they begin to swell back up. Dirt and debris trapped in the cracks as they close can compress the edges of the floor board, causing increasing gaps the next season. Of course old houses weren't built when there were effective vacuum cleaners so there's a lot of debris down there. As to washing: Murphy's has long been a standby, but has also acquired some (perhaps innaccurate) reputation as being hard to fully remove from floors prior to using poly urethane finishes. I will say this: about a decade ago I was visiting Montpelier, Pres. James Madison's plantation, (he was comtemporary pal of Thos. Jefferson) in VA. I happened to be visiting in the off season and got to wander around a bit more than most visitors. I climbed a staircase and encountered the curatorial staff working on an as-yet-unopened-to-the-public room. They were busily at work washing the floor of the room, with you guessed it: Murphy's and water. So if it's good enough for such an important and professionally cared-for house, it's probably good enough for mine. Otherwise I use Organic Linseed Oil Soap - imported from Sweden, doncha know. I got it from the site that sells the Silent Paint Remover. I find it's an excellent cleaner, smells nice and wasn't particularly expensive since I only use a little at a time. In olden days the floors were sometimes washed with lye, leached out of wood ashes, so I imagine a little Murphy's or Method won't hurt. Floors were also strewn with sand which was then swept up. (That's why you'll likely encounter sand in the cracks even if you're far from the beach.) Don't try washing unless you have a huge pile of rags on had to handdry the floor off at once. Yes, hand sanding or scraping is a one-room-at-a-time type project. More so than renting a drum sander. The only catch is how to meld the meeting point of applied finishes at the threshold when the adjacent rooms are not done all at once, if you don't have a raised threshold. One of the beauties of shellac is that it can be patched up or touched up, or joined together seamlessly anywhere, even in the middle of board in the middle of a room. It's not without its detractions however, the primary one being that it is not bulletproof the way modern poly is. OTOH, should trouble ensue you just clean the surface where the problem is of any wax and dirt and get out a brush and touch it up. It redissolves the old shellac, mixing it with the newly applied stuff and dries so the patch is invisible. Can't say that about any poly finish. You can get it completely off with rags and alcohol and start the whole thing anew if you want. The fix-ability and the reverse-ability have much to recommend it. It is also pretty easily DIY-ish, and cheap. You can search for more info using Google and here on thsi site. But be forewarned there is a LOT of anti-shellac prejudice out there by floor pros, and some people who are just repeating what someone else said. There are also some excellent reports by people who took the chance on it and are very happy. It is relatively slower to apply and more hands and kness sort of work. Don't try it unless you are in a warm-ish, but mostly unhumid time of year. You need to ventilate the room. It is not the worst stuff for breathing, but not benign either. Shellac itself (though not the carrier) is an organic product made from exudations of a beetle in India. I'm imagining you might be interested in seeing what can be learned from your floors. Here are two things to look for (get down on your knees with a good flashlight.) Look for little rows of holes running along the floor. The holes will probably close be together but the rows separated by about 21-27 inches apart. This is evidence of an early floor covering called ingrain carpet held down by tacks. Another thing to look for is evidence how the floor was finished originally (and to know if it has ever been sanded by modern methods). Drum and orbital sanders didn't exist, even sand paper as we know it didn't, so very sharp broadknives were used to scrape the floor flat and ready for finishing. If you hold a light at a raking angle in a place where the wouldn't have been much foot traffic, you may be able to see shallow 1/16th to 3/16 ths inch wide grooves on the surface. This are the still-remaining toolmarks of the original floor's finishing, you are looking at the hand-made work of the floor installer. If you can see the undersides of the boads, say y looking up at the first floor from the cellar, you may be able to see the saw pattern, which can tell you if it was made from logs using a hand-powered pit saw, circular saw, etc. This helps nail down the age of the building because of technology of locally available materials is often known pretty accurately. Have you sorted out which floors are the splintery-est? I have some fir and it has narrow, sharp, fierce splinters. The flat-sawn wide-board pine pretty mellow. Quarter-sawn oak strip is rarely that way. It's not uncommon to find many types of wood in a single house. It's worth learning the correct indentifications of both species and board type (flat, quarter, radial, T&G, butted, lapped, etc.) as sometimes choices of floor finishing techniques are limited by type of wood. Oh, I forgot to add: the reason I use old credit cards (and similar plastic things) to clean out cracks is that the edges and rounded corners are less damaging to the board sides within the groove than metal implements. Plus all the credit cards that are expired get another round of use if recycled into my floor tool box. Card companies used to send out plastic versions of fake ones they use to try and get you to apply for them. I was in plastic tool heaven, but, alas now the facsimiles are just cardboard. Another solvent to try is Soygel. It is particularly, though slowly, useful on floors. Leave it covered with plastic wrap for days, if necessary. Let time do the work, rather scraping it yourself. It also cleans up nicely which is something you can't say about most chemical strippers. All these solvents and the rags used to apply and clean off have the potential for spontaneous combustion. Either air them out on a line for days or dispose of them in a metal, closed container filled with water, and kept outside away from the house. HTH(elps) more than just adding to the overload. L. Here is a link that might be useful: source of Excellent Technical on Info on Care of Old Buildings (NPS Preserv. Briefs)

As everyone probably knows, I am not a fan of rocks, bricks, or other bordering materials that are raised above the surrounding grade, but I'm certain there will never come an end to it. In most cases, if the material is flush with the grade and wider, it will look better. In landscaping, much is about proportions. Considering the typical brick edging has a thickness of barely more than 2", it looks almost as thin as a knife edge raised above the surroundings. Since it is usually "retaining" nothing but air, it looks a bit purposeless. If the raising was retaining soil or mulch, it would make more sense, but still look wrong (weak and fragile) as if trying to retain grade with manufactured eggshell. A border that uses the brick length -- 8" -- is a dimension that looks much more capable of retaining earth. If its retaining a grade change it should be positioned as one would do a curb (a mini-retaining wall) .... not sticking up in the air. If there is no grade change, it will look best set flush -- an inlaid border (mowing strip.) In the case of using rounded rocks, it looks better if their tops are uniformly set relative to one another and that the whole strip is not raised, but set as one would install cobblestone. Too, a single row of such stones is going to appear very weak. It would look better if they are installed to be a cobblestone border that is 12" wide or greater. Like all the other hardscape, one wants to correctly install it in the first place as it would be a lot of work to redo. Generally, the process of installing stones is to excavate a trench a few inches deep in which will be placed a crushed aggregate base of about 3". (Where I live it would be called "paver base," which is usually made of crushed concrete. It is basically a coarse, nutty sand with chips and dust in it and it packs down tight and hard. "Driveway gravel" could also be used.) On top of this would be placed a varying 1" layer of any sand which allows for adjusting the rocks such that their discrepancies in thickness can be negated. At the end, more sand would be added over the top to fill in the gaps between stones, as if like powdered mortar, keeping them in place. For added stability, a strip of woven, polypropylene landscape fabric as wide of the trench itself can be used at the bottom of the trench to give added long term stability to the overall structure. It would help prevent the border from sinking or moving. Landscape "fabrics" that stretch or can easily be torn cannot be used.