Read through this before you begin. You will do best if the carb is off the engine and on a work bench or other suitable surface. I like to do the work in a large baking pan, less likely for something to roll off and get lost. Refer to the image below. I have added the item # 40.5 for the nut that secures the bowl to the carb. When you remove item 40.5 the bowl should simply pull straight off, you may need to tap the bowl lightly with a plastic screwdriver handle or similar "persuader" to break it loose. Pay attention to what you are doing, my standard advice is use a digital camera and shoot a lot of photos of the carb before you take things loose. And continue to photograph more as you remove items, this will give you something to refer to later WHEN you forget how something was. Have a sheet of paper (or a whole notepad) and write notes, draw sketches, anything to record the details. After the bowl is off, you need to pull out item # 27 to release the float. (you are taking pictures of this aren't you?) The needle valve (item # 30) should lift out of the seat when you pick up the bowl, but it may come loose, so watch it carefully. Pay close attention to the orientation of item # 31 spring clip (more pictures please). Now, I want you to look at items # 17, and 20. # 17 is the IDLE SPEED screw.....do not touch this screw, it sets the low idle RPM only and it's not necessary to mess with it during the cleaning. But # 20, the idle mixture screw, needs to be removed BUT before you remove it, you need to count the number of turns (and fraction of turns) in the CLOCKWISE direction that are required to just barely seat the screw to the bottom of the threaded hole. Write down the number on your note paper, this will be the number of turns CCW you will use as the initial setting when you assemble the carb after cleaning. After the float is off, the needle valve is out, and the idle mixture screw has been "counted" and removed you will proceed to clean the carb. Eye protection is mandatory when using spray carb cleaner, so use the proper safety goggle or face shield. Solvent proof rubber or vinyl gloves are good too. Do the cleaning outdoors or in good ventilation only. No smoking! Using spary carb cleaner (like Carb Medic, example)and the nozzle straw, spray the carb cleaner into every darn hole you see. Using a very fine piece of wire (the bare kind like used on parts tags) and poke it into all the holes to manually dislodge blockage, be careful not to break the wire off in a passage. Spray more cleaner through all the holes. If you have access to compressed air, blow out all the holes and passages. If you don't have compressed air, just let the carb dry thoroughly before reassembling. All the loose parts (bowl, mixture screw, float) need to be cleaned to remove any gunk or varnish film from them. Be careful not to bend any parts of the float where its pin goes or where the needle touches the float. After all is clean and dry, assembly is the reverse of the tear down. And don't forget to change the engine lube oil and filter before you try to run this engine again. Any gas that has appeared in the air cleaner can be mopped out with paper towels, put them outside with a weight on them so the wind won't get them, after the gas evaporates you can toss them into your OUTSIDE trash can. Smoke? Yeah, good possibility. Have the machine outdoors when you restart it. Fire is unlikely (most of the volatiles will be evaporated by then) but you may see some black specks of oil and carbon emerge from the exhaust outlet. That should clear up in 5 minutes or so. May lady luck be holdin' yer hand!

Knowing what engine etc. would be very helpful.... You are probably having trouble with the brush holders. Sometimes you'll see a "pin hole" in the holder where you can slide a thin wire (straightened paper clip) in to keep the brushes retracted enough to get them started. Sometimes a piece of string (sewing thread) can be used if the case is "vented" near the brush holders. Other times, a long, thin screw driver can be used. Just barely ease each brush SLIGHTLY over the commutator at a time. Just stay CALM and things go better.

Yes, the keyswitch, or solenoid , or wiring needs to looked at for the staying in crank mode. The battery, starter, or valve adjustment, or bad cam/compression release should be looked at for the hard cranking problem. Likely the hard cranking problem caused the other one. Disconnect the small wire to the solenoid first, then take the plug out, then hook the battery wires back up. If the starter cranks immediately, and spins readily, then pull the plug off the back of the keyswitch off, try again and see if it still cranks readily and immediately, if it does the starter solenoid is likely fused open, remove it and take to a mower shop and have them test it. When you put a good one back on, hook it back up, and test again with the plug still out. If it spins like a champ, then remove the OHV valve cover and look at the valve adjustment, and check the rocker arm studs for looseness too. But that is just going in one direction, but do the solenoid test first Fish

Thanks, Wheel Horse! Every Saturday, i get to hold hands with my sweetie, the rest of the time, i work on whatever the cat drags in!Sold some parts,gave some stuff away, tried to get my lady's son to like me! Fat chance! So, we sneak around some. Never thought i'd be doing that but it keeps my mind in good order. Just ordered a new monitor for this box. Today, i hear the mowers running, so i'd better check on my grass height. "Bout a month ago, i was pushing a tractor, and slipped off it and rolled down the hill. Was sore for a while, but Dr. gave me some pills and its back to work with it. Feels good, now! RJ.